Business Suits

Mens Vintage Clothing

2011-08-18T22:43:00.000-07:00

ZOOT SUITS

Worn first by rebellious black and hispanic teenagers on both coasts in the late 20s/30s as a statement against the majority, the zoot was soon picked up by musicians and dancers in the early 1940s and even found its way into mainstream fashion.
The zoot jacket is oversized, wide-shouldered, and hangs almost to the knees. Often, it is double-breasted with wide, low lapels. Zoot pants are low-crotched and high-waisted, often coming halfway up the torso. They are deeply pleated at the waist (generally two or three mammoth pleats on each side) and generously cut at the knee. Zoot pants taper sharply at the ankle to end in a deep cuff that rests on the shoes. The width at the ankle is generally only be as wide as needed to get over the heel (though some men had zippers sewn into their cuffs to get a tighter fit) and the cuff was 1-2" deep.
The fabric for zoot suits was like the suits themselves - dramatic and overstated. The fabric was either brightly colored or boldly patterned with wide pinstripes or glen check. With fabric, the bolder the better - the goal was to distinguish oneself from the mainstream.

OXFORD BAGGIES

Oxford Baggies originated on the campus of Oxford University, England, during the summer of 1920. The full cut of these pants and cuff with a circumference of 22 inches allowed students to easily slip them on over their beloved knickers, which had been banned by the University. Unlike the ZOOT SUITS, Oxford Baggies were more socially accepted and worn by the masses.

JAZZ SUIT

Jazz clothing surfaced in 1919 as a new music called Jazz was first being performed. This JAZZ SUIT, identified by it's extremely trim, tight/pinched look, was worn by those in the theatrical profession. As seen in World War One uniforms the jacket has a unique waist seam.

SACQUE SUITS

Sacque Suits were worn by the common man from the 1850's - 1920's. They were appropriate for all but the dressiest occasions. Full cut Jacket with 4 button high gorge and trousers are straight cut and without cuffs.
Sacque's modern styling comes by way of its short, slim-fitting jacket and its low-rise, straight-leg pant. Together they create a sleek, contemporary look.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Elements Of Formal Clothing - Part 2

2010-11-10T00:35:00.000-08:00

Parts of a suit

There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments and the details of a suit.

The cut

The silhouette of a suit is its outline. No suit is skin-tight; the amount of extra fabric and the way it hangs is known as the drape. The shape of the front of the suit is particularly affected by the way the suit buttons. The two main cuts consist firstly of double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two vertical rows of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides; and secondly, single-breasted suits, on which the sides just meet at the front down a single row of buttons.

British suits are characterised by moderately tapered sides, minimal shoulder padding, and two vents. Italian suits are characterised by strongly padded shoulders, strongly tapered sides, and no vent. American suits are considered more casual than the preceding styles, and are characterised by moderate shoulder padding, minimally tapered sides, and a single vent. The sack suit is a loose American style. Contemporary is a term that includes a variety of recently designed garments that do not fit into the preceding categories.

The suit is cut out from a length of fabric from a roll by a cutter using a cutting pattern, a paper outline of the parts. The pattern can be draughted in various ways. With a ready-to-wear suit, the same pattern is used many times to make identical suits. Made-to-measure and bespoke cutters can work by pattern manipulation, altering a stock pattern, or by using a drafting formula to calculate adjusted lengths. Some bespoke tailors work by "Rock Of Eye", drawing and cutting by eye.

Fabric

Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns produce worsteds (where the fibres are combed before spinning) and woollens (where they are not). These can be woven in a number of ways producing flannel, tweed, gabardine, and fresco among others. These fabrics all have different weights and feel, and some fabrics have an S (or Super S) number describing the fineness of the fibres. Although wool has traditionally been associated with warm, bulky clothing meant for warding off cold weather, advances in making finer and finer fiber have made wool suits acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and more supple. For hot weather, linen is also used, and in North America cotton seersucker is worn. Other materials are used sometimes, such as cashmere. Silk and silk blended with wool are sometimes used. Synthetic materials, while cheap, are very rarely recommended by experts.

The main four colours for suits worn in business are black, light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or without patterns. In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the 1930s. In non-business settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs. In summer, lighter shades, such as tan or cream, are popular.

For non-business use tweed has been popular since Victorian times, and still is commonly worn. A wide range of colour is available, including muted shades of green, brown, red, and grey.Tweeds are usually checked, or plain with a herringbone weave, and are most associated with the country. While full tweed suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers (trousers of different cloth).

The most conventional, universally occurring suit is a 3-button navy blue suit, which can be worn either with matching trousers, or with different, lighter-colored trousers for a more casual look. Other conservative colors are greys, black, and olive. White and light blues are acceptable at some events, especially in the warm season. Red is usually considered "unconventional" and "garish". Tradition calls for a gentleman's suit to be of decidedly plain color, with splashes of bright color reserved for neckties, kerchiefs and, sometimes, hose.

In the US and UK, suits were never traditionally made in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear (including dinner jackets or strollers), and for undertakers. However, the decline of formal wear in recent years has meant that black, as well as being popular in fashionable scenes, such as clubbing, is now also being worn in formal contexts (such as to a funeral or religious function) in place of the traditional more formal wear.

Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pin stripes; windowpane checks are also acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the traditional glen plaid and herringbone, though apart from some very traditional environments such as London banking, these are worn for business now too. The colour of the patterned element (stripes, plaids, and checks) varies by gender and location. For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen out of use in America, while they continue to be worn as traditionally in Britain. Some unusual old patterns such as diamonds are now rare everywhere.

Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner lining, there is a layer of sturdy interfacing fabric to prevent the wool from stretching out of shape; this layer of cloth is called the canvas after the fabric from which it was traditionally made. Expensive jackets have a floating canvas, while cheaply manufactured models have a fused (glued) canvas. A fused canvas is less soft and, if poorly done, damages the suppleness and durability of the jacket, so many tailors are quick to deride fused canvas as being less durable. However, some selling this type of jacket claim that the difference in quality is very small. A few London tailors state that all bespoke suits should use a floating canvas.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Elements Of Formal Clothing - Part 1

2010-11-09T03:46:00.001-08:00

Business Suits

The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted, determine the social and work suitability of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and necktie.Until around the 1960s, as with all men's clothes, a hat would have been also worn when the wearer was outdoors. Suits also come with different numbers of pieces: a two-piece suit has a jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds a waistcoat; further pieces might include a matching flat cap.

Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made the suit from his client's selected cloth; these are now often known as bespoke suits. The suit was custom made to the measurements, taste, and style of the man. Since the Industrial Revolution, most suits are mass-produced, and, as such, are sold as ready-to-wear garments (though alteration by a tailor prior to wearing is common). Currently, suits are sold in roughly three ways:

* bespoke, in which the garment is custom-made from a pattern created entirely from the customer's measurements, giving the best fit and free choice of fabric;
* made to measure, in which a pre-made pattern is modified to fit the customer, and a limited selection of options and fabrics is available;
* and finally ready-to-wear, which is least expensive and hence most common.

Main article: History of suits

The current styles were founded in the revolution during the early seventeenth century that sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into the simpler clothing of the British Regency period, which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era. It was in the search for more comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise in the late nineteenth century to the modern lounge suit.

The word suit derives from the French suite, meaning "following", from some Late Latin derivative form of the Latin verb sequor = "I follow", because the component garments (jacket and trousers and waistcoat) follow each other and have the same cloth and colour and are worn together.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Best Winter Suits For Men

2010-01-17T20:11:00.001-08:00

When the snow starts falling and the temperature in the thermometer drops way low, often times fashion goes right out the window. While its understandable to trade aesthetics for functionality, it isn't necessarily needed when it comes to the realm of men's suits. For many parts of the country, putting together a winter business wardrobe is a stylish way of keeping warm that is all too often overlooked. If you enjoy men's suits, one thing is for sure, you will enjoy keeping warm and cozy in the richness of textures and patterns available in the winter suiting fabrics.

It All Starts with the Fabrics

For winter, suits require a heavy and big type cloth, stuff that is all at once beefy and elegant. Most suits made for winter in the US features nothing more than heavy gabardine, which just creates a heavy look that doesn't drape well at all. Another down side to this is that most finely finished wool doesn't preform well in the elements. Snow and Rain have tendency to break down the yarn of these "high twist" suit fabrics causing a fuzzy texture and when pressed, a shiny finish.

The best winter suits feature variations of English tweed and flannel. Both are hard to describe but instantly recognizable, incredibly elegant and when worn during winter, very, very functional. Tweed features a "mill" finish that gives it its distinct look. The way the yarn is twisted creates a soft and naturally weather resistant barrier that keeps moisture out but heat in. When the yarn is woven it seem to be a blending of different shades, which creates the rich depth of color. Flannel is a finer more "finished" version of tweed, created to be more suitable for the offices and courtrooms, than the sporting beginnings of the original. Also naturally weather resistant, Flannel creates a lighter look with out giving up the functionality. Flannel is more commonly seen today, while tweed, on the other hand, is almost non existent in off the rack brands. This forces aficionados to look towards tailored custom suits for their tweed fix.

The Cut of a Winter Suit

When choosing the best cut for your winter suit, look for something that is less constructed and a little roomier than your fall and spring clothing. The reason for an unconstructed suit is that the heavier fabrics will be able to give the suit body and shape with out the need for much canvas or padding. This is ideal for those wanting the look of a winter suit with out the bulk. A roomier fit, on the other hand, is recommend to allow for a little more layering. Sweaters, scarves and gloves are all the winter wardrobe mainstays and you will need a little more room to layer it all and still be comfortable.

Chris Vance is the senior trends and fashion spotter for Requisite clothing, a custom clothing design house specializing in custom suits, custom shirts, custom tuxedos and sports wear for both men and women.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

More On Topstitching

2009-11-24T22:07:00.000-08:00

What is it?
Topstitching is a single or multiple set of lines of stitching showcased on the garment right side, either for decorative or functional purposes. It's found on many types of garments, from sporty to formal, tailored to heirloom. The term is often used interchangeably with edge stitching, though generally topstitching refers to a stitching line about 1/4" from the edge or a style line, such as seaming or pockets. Edge stitching, as its name suggests, is done very close to the edge. Occasionally, both types of stitching are used in a single design area. For example, a collar may be both edge stitched and topstitched. Topstitching helps to hold garment layers in place and keep edges flat, or it may be a means of attachment for a design feature, like a pocket or band. On a collar or lapel edge, the added stitching keeps facings rolled under and gives a structured look.

Thread Tricks
Because topstitching is meant to be seen as a design detail, it's often done with a contrast and/or heavy weight of thread for prominence. Many thread companies make a "topstitching weight" in basic colors, and a sometimes in a variety of fibers, including silk.

Topstitching can also be done using regular sewing-weight thread, either in a matching or contrasting color. It's also possible to put two all-purpose threads through a single needle to make a more visible stitching line.

Stitch Smarts
Most topstitching is sewn with a straight stitch, using a slightly longer length than is used for garment construction. When using topstitching thread, it's imperative to lengthen the stitch to create a good quality stitch.
Topstitching can also be done using a triple straight stitch, where the machine actually stitches backward and forward in the same line, creating a more prominent look.
Decorative machine stitches can be used for topstitching if they seem appropriate to the garment styling.

Thinking Straight
Since topstitching is highly visible, it's important that the stitching lines are perfectly straight. Most machines have a presser foot where the distance from the needle to the foot edge is 1/4", which can be used as a guide.
Some machine brands also offer a 1/4" topstitching foot, with a raised edge guide, either fixed or adjustable.

Twice as Nice
Topstitching can also be done using a twin needle to create two rows of straight stitching on the garment right side, spanned by a zigzag on the underside. The two threads may be the same or differing colors. This technique is often used on knits for hemming.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Understsnding The Details For Mens Suit

2009-10-25T20:06:00.000-07:00

In this article we will discuss the parts that make up a man's suit. Although off the rack suits afford you little flexibility in adjusting these parts, the man who goes with a bespoke or made to measure suit has the freedom of choosing the option that best compliment his body. In any case, all men should understand the basics of the suit and its parts so that they buy a garment that accentuates their most positive traits.

Single or Double Breasted

The first and perhaps most noticeable element of the suit is whether it is single or double-breasted. Single-breasted suits have a single row of buttons down the front, and the jacket flaps only overlap enough to permit buttoning. A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons, and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. The choice between single- and double-breasted is a matter of personal taste, though the vast majority of American men choose single breasted suits as that this is what is readily available to them; also a lack of familiarity with the double-breasted option may account for the single-breasted suit's dominance. Thin gentlemen, particularly those who are somewhat taller, can benefit greatly from double-breasted suits, as they will give a fuller appearance to the figure; on larger men, double-breasted suits can have a tendency to draw attention to the midsection, so careful attention and an expert tailor should be employed.

Lapels

Lapels come in a variety of styles with a number of options. The lapels' width is perhaps subject to the most variance, with the extremely narrow lapels of the 1950s standing in stark contrast to the excessively wide lapels of the 1970s. As is the case with much of classic fashion, the most timeless lapels are of a moderate width. In addition to different widths, suit lapels come in two styles: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the join. Notched and peaked lapels are equally classic, though the latter are most commonly found on double-breasted jackets. A peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket is an excellent way to raise its level of formality, but is almost impossible to find on anything but a custom made suit

Waist Buttons

A suit jacket has either one row of buttons or two, depending on whether it is single- or double-breasted. A single-breasted jacket has a single row of buttons, numbering anywhere from one to four, though two and three are the most common. The three-button jacket is the most traditional configuration, taking its cue from English riding jackets; properly worn, it gives the illusion of height. Traditionally, only the middle or second button is fastened when standing, though the top two buttons may be fastened to produce a slightly more formal appearance. Two-button suits are a slightly later innovation, and because they show more of the shirt and tie, can produce a slightly more slimming appearance. Only the top button of a two-button jacket is fastened; with the exception of a jacket with only one button, the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is never fastened.

Double-breasted jackets most commonly have either four or six buttons on each side - where there are six buttons, only the lower four are for buttoning, though due to the design of the suit, only two will actually be buttoned at any given time. There is also an extra hidden button on the reverse of the outside flap of a double-breasted suit, onto which the inside or "hidden" flap attaches. Contrary to the habits of certain celebrities, a double-breasted jacket is never left unbuttoned when standing, permitting it to flap around wildly; it is always securely buttoned upon standing and remains buttoned until one is again seated. Additionally, while the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is always left undone, both of the operable buttons on a double-breasted jacket are fastened. As with the gorge of the lapel, the height of the waist buttons can been altered slightly to accentuate or diminish height, but this must be done carefully.

Sleeve Buttons

There are numerous historical reasons for jacket sleeves bearing buttons, from encouraging the use of handkerchiefs to allowing a gentleman to wash his hands without removing his jacket, a traditionally grave social offense in mixed company. Whatever the reason for their arrival on jacket sleeves, they now form an important part of the detail work or trimming of the jacket. Most traditionally, jacket sleeves bear four buttons, though it is not uncommon to find three. Regardless of number, there should be at least as many of them as there are buttons on the waist, and they are always placed within a half-inch or so of the hem. On bespoke suits, and even some of the higher-quality made-to-measure jackets, the sleeve buttons are functional. When the buttons are functional, there is some temptation to leave one button undone in order to draw attention to the feature - and by extension, the quality of the suit - though this is a matter of personal taste.

Jacket Pockets

The most formal are jetted pockets, where the pocket is sewn into the lining of the jacket and only a narrow horizontal opening appears on the side of the jacket. These pockets, being nearly invisible, contribute to a very sleek, polished appearance, and are most frequently found on formal-wear. The next style, the flap pocket, is slightly less formal, though it is perfectly acceptable in all the circumstances where a gentleman is likely to be found in a suit. Flap pockets are made identically to jetted pockets, but include a flap sewn into the top of the pocket, which covers the pocket's opening. These are the most common pockets on suit jackets, and in the very best, are fabricated so that the wearer may tuck the flaps inside, mimicking the jetted pocket. There are also diagonally-cut flap pockets known as hacking pockets, though they are somewhat less common; the hacking pocket is derived from English riding gear, and is most prominent on bespoke suits from English tailors, particularly those traditionally associated with riding clothes. The least formal are patch pockets, which are exactly what the name implies: pockets created by applying a patch to the outside of the jacket. Patch pockets are the most casual option; they are frequently found on summer suits that would otherwise appear overly formal, as well as on sports jackets.

Ticket pocket

Some jackets, particularly bespoke and finer made-to-measure offerings, include a small ticket pocket above one of the side pockets, generally on the same side as the wearer's dominant hand. This pocket is rarely used in modern times, and serves more as an indication of the suit's quality.

Breast Pocket

Moving up the jacket is the breast pocket, which is always open, and into which only one item is ever placed: the handkerchief or pocket square. The reason for this is twofold: First, like the side pockets, any items placed in the breast pocket create lumpy projections which distort the sleek appearance of the suit, and second, the breast pocket and the inside left pocket share the same space in the jacket's lining, meaning that objects in the breast pocket tend to force items in the inside pocket into the wearer's ribs, which is quite uncomfortable.

Vents

Moving on from pockets we find the vents, flap-like slits in the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets. Jackets have three styles: center, side, or none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits; they provide a very sleek look to the back of the jacket, though they can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down. Center-vented jackets, very popular on American suits, have a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. Because of its placement, center-vented jackets have a habit of exposing the wearer's posterior, though most seem not to mind, as center vents remain the most popular style. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access. Side vents also facilitate sitting more easily, moving as needed to prevent the rumpling of the jacket back, which leads to creasing.

Now that we have an understanding of the parts of a jacket, its time that we learned about proper fit and proportion.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Choose Men's Suit Color

2009-10-11T21:05:00.001-07:00

Most men choose a suits color based off of two factors. The salesman says the color looks good and the man buying the suit can not find anything wrong with it. The problem here is that most men do not know what colors compliment their complexion, and instead of choosing a color that enhances their looks they choose a color that simply fits in.

Have you ever wondered why you see so many men wearing navy blue suits? Its not that this color enhances so many men's natural style; its just men playing the game of safety in numbers. The purpose of this article is to open your eyes to the world of men's suit colors and encourage you to choose a fabric that compliments your individual style.

The Triad: Navy Blue, Black and Charcoal Gray

These three colors dominate the men's suit industry, and for good reason. Most men are complimented by one or more of these dark colors. Dark suits have the ability to seamlessly transition from business to pleasure, in addition to a slimming effect of the silhouette. Let us talk about each color quickly

Navy Blue

Navy blues strength lies in its sheer dominance. Most men own at least one, and if you have ever walked into a business meeting you can be sure more than half the men will be clad in one. But this is its chief weakness; how can you stand out when 90% of your body looks exactly the same as over 50% of the room. We tend to forget that our clothing sends off strong signals, and if you want to be anything but average you want to present yourself as such, not always try to blend in. In addition, those with a very light complexion need to pair navy blue with rich colored shirts; a white or ice blue shirt will drain the color right from their face. Finally, young men are advised to avoid this color as that it has a habit off accentuating youth.

Black

A more difficult color to wear, it is perceived by many as the choice for funerals and weddings. No argument there; however, it is so much more for the man with the right complexion. No other color has such a slimming effect, and depending on the dress shirt it can go from regular office wear to drinks with friends at the hippest nightclubs in New York. The key to wearing black is being a high contrast individual, a man with dark hair with light to medium colored skin. The effect is a properly framed face to where all the attention is drawn.

Charcoal Gray

Charcoal gray suits projects an image of authority, stability, and professionalism. It is an excellent choice for a first suit, especially for young men as that it does accentuate youth (unlike Navy Blue). Although clearly lighter than black or navy blue when placed side by side, it nonetheless is just as acceptable at all business functions and interview situations. Possibly the most versatile color, it looks good with almost any colored shirt imaginable.

Colors more men should consider.

Brown

Brown ranges from a light through a deep chocolate hue. Many men look their best in earth-tones, making the brown suit an important part of their wardrobe; it is also a popular color for causal options including tweed suits and sports jackets. One caveat: until the early 1980s, brown was not considered a color for business (we can thank Ronald Reagan for their return). While the times have changed there are still some members of the old guard who continue to hold to the old rule that brown does not belong in town. This should not dissuade the well-dressed gentleman from wearing brown with confidence, but it is important to be aware.

Tan

The navy suit for warm weather, tan is an excellent choice. Less flashy than white, it none the less commands attention and can set you apart from the crowd while keeping you cool. If you live in a cold weather city, a tan suit is ideal for spring and summer while in a warmer climate it is appropriate year round. The tan suit pairs well with white, light blue, or any pale pastel shirt. Best of all, this gives you the chance to really make your dark ties stand out.

Taupe

A color that falls between gray and brown, taupe is a great choice for the man who has a couple of the basic colored suits in his wardrobe and is looking for a color out of the ordinary that still maintains a professional appearance. Great for use year round, the taupe suit is a little less dressy than a charcoal suit but more likely to draw compliments because of it's ability to compliment a man's finer features.

Light Gray

A great spring and summer color that doesn't draw attention to the wearer but instead signals a suave persona confident in his own skin, light gray is an excellent choice for any complexion. Live in a warmer climate? Then light gray is appropriate year round. The light gray suit pairs well with white, light blue, and almost any pale colored shirt, although if you are light complected you may want to go with a bolder hue.

White

The Classic color of summer. You don't have to be Tom Wolfe to stay cool and look great. White compliments all but the lightest complexions, and even then the right shirt choice can remedy that situation. The key to wearing a white suit is confidence, especially in the United States where a suit in this color is hard to come by.

E-tailro at www.mycustomtailor.com

What To Wear With Men Blazer Jacket

2009-09-28T21:28:00.001-07:00

The beauty of the men's blazer is that it goes with almost anything. For the purpose of this discourse, by blazer we mean a classic single-breasted navy wool coat with brass buttons. Over gray flannel slacks, a white button-down oxford shirt and a striped tie, it makes a classic outfit that in the United States registers just shy of a suit on the formality scale. On the weekend, the same blazer over chinos and a polo shirt makes a very smart casual outfit. In this article we will discuss some basic means of wearing a men's blazer jacket for work and leisure.

If you work in a business casual office, the blazer gives you a simple solution to the tricky problem of dressing respectably without appearing aloof. In a workplace dominated by polo shirts and khakis, the man who has the class to throw a blazer on over the ensemble looks distinctive without standing out. A dress shirt with a button-down collar and gray flannels are also worthy accompaniments for a blazer; add a tie to take it up a notch. A point collar shirt formalizes the ensemble a tad more, and here one should stop. Contrast collars really belong under a suit, and even if the formality of French cuffs were not an issue, having cuff-links next to brass sleeve buttons creates a discordant clash. For footwear, bluchers, loafers, and monk-strap dress shoes are all good options.

The outfits described above are also smart choices for dinner in a nice restaurant or a morning religious service. In fact, the blazer will serve you well for most weekend activities, from taking in a play in most American cities to cheering on a girls' softball team. It looks aristocratic and dignified over an ecru turtleneck and your trusty gray flannels; for a laid-back look in the summer wear it with off-white pants and a bright polo. While it is perfectly acceptable to wear a blazer with jeans, and indeed the combination can look very stylish, one must take care that pants and coat are not too close in color. This goes for any jacket and pants combination: if it's not a suit, it shouldn't look like one from a distance.

When it comes to dress shirts, as said above a button-down oxford is the classic. Besides solids, a broad variety of stripes and checks, including many that would look garish with a suit, mix well with a blazer. The latter's dark, solid fabric looks good next to just about anything, and the shiny buttons amply counterweight bold patterns. For a more casual look go with a long-sleeve polo shirt or a turtleneck depending on the climate. The urbane silk tee-shirt and tight-fitting knit shirt tend to clash in their modernity with the blazer's long heritage, and work better with a suit jacket.

In cooler weather, you way want to don a sweater under your blazer jacket. If you're going without a tie, a cable-knit or argyle crew-neck will add some life to the outfit. The V-neck worn over a tie may also be patterned or textured, but can be solid as well.

A few words on neckwear and accessories: the tie you wear with a blazer should be in

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Top 6 Reasons To Buy Custom Clothing Online

2009-08-28T21:16:00.000-07:00

When making a online custom clothing purchases you have

1) Considerable Savings for the same quality options,
2) More Selection,
3) More Customization Options,
4) High Quality Standards,
5) A transparent process with low pressure sales techniques, and finally,
6) You save a considerable amount of time.

Savings -

A good quality Bespoke suit cost any where from USD 800 to USD 3000 at a local custom tailor shop.
However, with the advent of globalization and internet era you can be your own tailor, built your wardrobe with your specific style selection and fabrics from a reliable Online store.
This is the biggest advantage whereby you can save a lot of money with very small efforts.

Selection -

When you walk into a store, you see merchandise everywhere. But most of this is superfluous, as that what you need or want is usually only a small fraction of what is available. Let's use the Men's Wearhouse as an example. I walk in, and I ask for a light gray pin striped single breasted suit in size 44. Although I have only specified three factors, I have nonetheless reduced their inventory of 2000 suits to maybe 2 or 3 garments that fit that description. Now imagine if I asked for something as simple as a ticket pocket; it's very likely they would not even have a suit like this in their nationwide inventory.
With custom clothing this selection is not a problem, as that your choices are unlimited. What you ask for is made to your specifications; no compromises. The garment you have made is a one-of-kind masterpiece of fabric and thread.

Customization -

With a custom bespoke suit, you are free to adjust as many aspects of your suit's style as you wish. There are no such things as strange requests; need one sleeve longer than the other (most men's arm are not the same length) - done. Are you in law enforcement, and need a suit that hides the bulge of your weapon - easy. Do you want to make a statement with a flashy lining - what color? Custom clothing is just that; Custom.

Quality -

I hate stale food. If I have to eat fast food, I always ask for my sandwich to be made without condiments and with extra vegetables; this way I know the hamburger I receive is prepared fresh. Now think about when you have a custom garment created; you are giving a very specific set of instructions to an artist who wants to realize your vision. They work their magic with your chosen fabrics, and the final product is their handmade creation, not a stale cutout from a factory. Quality is higher because each garment is individually created, inspected, and tested.

Transparency & No Pressure to Buy -

One of the most powerful aspects of the web is how it forces a seller to lay his wares out for all to inspect and see. You can shop for as long as you wish, look wherever you may choose, and at the end of the day the vendor must convince you his product is more valuable to you than the hard earned dollars you are parting with. It's this transparency that makes buying a custom garment online great. You design exactly what you want, and can on your schedule ask for clarification on anything that concerns you in regards to the purchase.

Time is Money -

If you are a tall, short, large, or thin guy you will have problems finding clothes that fit you. A day shopping can easily turn into a 10 hour nightmare where you visit 5 different stores and find nothing that fits you properly in the colors and styles you desire. A week and 20 hours of shopping later, you give up and compromise with a suit that is OK. Unfortunately, you are never really happy with this purchase, and you dispose of the suit within the year.

Your time has value. Every hour you spend shopping is time that could have been spent relaxing, enjoying the company of those you care about, or even working. Although custom clothing may cost more, it's not unreasonable. There are many online custom clothing merchants that can outfit you in less time it takes to heat up your car on a cold winter day. And once these company's have your measurements, it's a snap to reorder or make minor adjustments in size.

Conclusion

Custom clothing is not for everyone. There are those out there who fit perfectly into designer suits, are not interested in customized options, are not concerned with quality, like to be pressured into a sale they don't know everything about, and have plenty of time to waste.

If you don't fit this description, you may want to explore the online custom clothing option.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Business Casual

2009-08-28T20:54:00.000-07:00

In the European tradition, casual is the dress code which emphasizes comfort and personal expression over presentation and uniformity. It includes a very wide variety of costume,
Casual wear is typically the dress code in which new forms of gender expression are attempted before being accepted into semi-casual or semi-formal situations.

The term casual describes a wide variety of clothing, ranging from smart casual to active attire.

Smart Casual

Typical events: Business purposes, church events, everyday wear

Smart casual usually consists of a blazer or a sports jacket a collared shirt, and dress trousers. A necktie is increasingly optional. Although suits technically fall into the informal category, so are casual enough to be considered smart casual instead. Smart casual footwear includes shoes and loafers, but not sneakers (trainers), or men's sandals.

Business Casual

Typical events: Business purposes, church events,

Business Casual is among the most fluid and varied of dress codes,
Generally speaking, ties are not worn with business casual. Most codes require that a collared shirt be worn,Dress pants or cotton twills such as chinos (khakis) are acceptable, but jeans often are not. Sports jackets are optional. Again, while loafers and other casual shoes are acceptable, sneakers and men's sandals are not. Business casual is now acceptable in some business situations and industries, but not all.

Business casual means dressing professionally, looking relaxed yet neat and pulled together.

For women: A reasonable length skirt (not mini-skirt) or full-length pants of a non-jeans material combined with a sleeved top (such as a dress shirt, polo, or sweater set) is considered acceptable. An informal dress with sleeves and appropriate skirt length is also acceptable.

For men: A combination of collared shirt (such as a dress shirt or polo shirt), cotton trousers (such as khakis), or tennis shirt with a belt, and shoes (such as loafers) with socks is generally acceptable

Unacceptable for either gender: sleeveless shirts, gym clothes, rumpled or ripped clothing, (micro) miniskirts, underwear as outerwear, bizarre hair color or styles, inappropriately revealing attire such as bare midriffs, and flip-flops.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

In Recession Dress Up To Cheer Up.

2009-03-11T22:55:00.001-07:00

Only the smart will survive, so pull your socks up

Lucy Kellaway on work

Last summer, I had dinner with a dozen British and Italian insurance managers in Rome. In desultory fashion, we discussed the weather (hot) and the economy (not so hot) until someone raised the subject of socks. Suddenly the evening sprang to life: the men pushed their chaise back form the table and rolled up their trouser legs. Each British man was wearing a low sock that ended three or four inches above the ankle, revealing a quantity of snow white leg; each Italian had his calf covered in a finely spun Each nationality stared in a finely spun sock that went all the way up to the knee. Each nationality stared at the other’s socks in uncomprehending horror.

I thought of these insurance experts the other day when I read a New York Times blog in which a fashion writer advised men what to wear on the day they get the sack.

“The perfect termination outfit should feature professionalism and employability as the top note, but with accents of confidence and an aftertaste that leaving premises means moving on up. A sober suit with a bright shirt perfect.”
The advice appealed to me, as did the delicious compress of the writing. Yet the post caused a storm of self-righteous indignation from readers accusing the author of crassness in focusing on unessential at a time like this.
Such readers miss the point. Unessential are even more important at a time like this. Even in good times, there is nothing trivial about what business people choose to wear.
A peep at our socks will what nationality we are; a peep at the rest of it will tell what line of business we are in and also will give a clue on the state of the economy. One of the most blesses side-effects of recession is that we all smarten up. A sober suit is not only the right thing to wear the day you get axed but also the right thing to wear every other working day, too.

At a conference in London last week for HR managers, everyone was in a suit and tie while, at the same conference two years ago, they were all casual. HR people are on the front line of the jobs market and they are also like lemming – so, if they think suits are in, they are in.

The casual look, which we used to celebrate as a sign of egalitarianism and unstuffiness, now looks sloppy. When Stephen Hester, head of Royal Bank of Scotland, was photographed on a recent Sunday leaving the Treasury in jeans and an extraordinary beige gilt with suede patches on the shoulders, the punters did not like it. One wrote to the Financial Times claiming that Mr. Hester appeared to be wearing the very same M& slipper that this reader got for Christmas. The fashion A sober suit is not only the right to wear the day you get axed, it is right every other working day, too scales have fallen from our eyes. We now see that men in casual clothes look simply awful; and we also are starting to suspect that a man who is casual with his clothes may be casual with our money.

The new smartness is born of paranoia. I know one man who has just gone out to buy some Jermy Street shirts (a sale bargain) in order to send the message to his boss that the would rather not be fired. It has been a good investment: he still has a job and says the ritual of ironing these shirts reminds him that his job matters, and claims to respect it a little more.

I discovered a few year ago the truth that one feels better about one’s job when one looks smarter. Until I was 40, I used to dress myself mainly in clothes bought from the sale rail at Gap Kids (size XL) and slung them on carelessly. Now I wear jackets and pearl earrings. Partly, I’m trying to offset the ravages of age; but I’ve also noticed that, when I dress to impress, I may not succeed in impressing anyone else but I do impress myself. And that, surely, is a good start.
More than this I find that dressing up is a nice thing to do in itself. It lifts the spirits. I have a friend who has just been appointed to a senior managerial job and her first decision has been to launch High Heels Friday. Early soundings suggest that this is going to be popular with her female staff. When the economy is grim, we need to dress up to cheer up.
There are two further advantages to dressing to dressing formally for work. First, it means that you always know what to wear. Those stressful daily questions – tie or no tie? Chinos or suit? – are answered simply. Even better, dressing up means a sharper demarcation between work and the rest of your life: tie means slopping around doing nothing.

Yet the biggest joy about saying goodbye to casual is that we say goodbye to some of the cruddy thinking that went with it. Most pathetic was the idea that dressing casually helped you to be creative. I have been watching the television series, Mad Men, and an gratified to see that the creative in a Madison Avenue advertising agency in the 1960s did not let their stiffly starched collars and perfect tailoring prevent them from dreaming up good ads. (Neither did their secretaries.)

To survive this recession, we need to smarten up and buckle down. We need some belts and braces. We need to pull ourselves up with our own bootstraps. We need top get some work under our belts. It is on coincidence that none of these clothing their message is: pull your socks up whatever length they happen to be.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Business Casual Attire

2009-03-01T18:36:00.000-08:00

We all enjoy the freedom that causal business dress allows us in the workplace.
To be able to pull off the business casual look is quite tricky, you want to be comfortable, appear stylish, and still look like an executive, even when you're wearing jeans to work.
If you're presenting yourself to the public, a client, or just your office colleagues, and wearing business casual, here are some pointers that will help you create a crisp, yet casual business image of an executive.

For women, business casual includes pantsuits, tailored separates - such as skirts, slacks, blouses, sweaters, sweater sets, and jackets.

Jeans
When you have several pairs of jeans for work, then you're on your way to your executive casual styling. No torn hems, no ill-fitting jeans, no holes, no matter how chic they are at the time.

White Blouse
A must have for an executive in a business casual situation. With jeans, khakis, any style of casual slacks, a white blouse is dazzling and versatile. Worn with jeans, and an attractive belt, the white blouse has the ability to be the basic pallet for a variety of business casual polished looks.

Well-tailored clothes that fit your form do add authority to your entire appearance. Even khakis or blue jeans can be classic if made to measure to your own perfect fit and custom made to your exact unique measurements, not too baggy and not too tight as it would be with a off the peg clothing in most cases, made to fit perfectly at each part of your body. If coordinated to a quality custom made top would give you an amazing casually dressed business executive’s look. Or Wear a dress shirt. If you like to get away with a plain scoop neck or v-neck shirt with your slacks, go for a crisp, ironed button-down dress shirt and wear it tucked in. Finish the look off with a nice belt.

Dresses
Business casual does mean dresses are allowed. Just be careful not to show too much skin, or consider wearing your sun dresses or anything that resembles sleep-wear in the business environment. There's a wide variety of dresses that are perfectly suited for business casual, so choose styles that are easy to wear and not too revealing.

Fabrics and Colors
Leading ladies need not hide in beige and browns, but they ought to steer away from neon and loud patterns. Sexy see-through fabrics and gaudy or childish prints have no place in the office. Powder pink and baby blue speak of innocence, but not intelligence and innovation. Classic looks simply attribute class to the wearer. Solid colors like navy, black, gray, brown and khaki are safe bets for business casual attire.

Accessorize Astutely
An exceptional leather belt with a polished and understated buckle is an absolute requirement. A quality wristwatch can be a powerful fashion statement as well. A few well-chosen pieces of genuine or fashion jewelry can complete a classy look.

If your company does not have a set policy. It is not mandatory to conform to business casual if you are more comfortable wearing traditional or conservative outfits on the job.
Traditional business attire includes business suits, dress shirts, and ties for men. It includes business-oriented suits for women, both skirted suits and tailored pantsuits.

Your confidence in what you are wearing does make an impression!
All you need to do is to believe in yourself and your abilities, and then you are free to dress any way you choose in business while looking just like an executive.

Look Smart Executive!! You will always be taken seriously.

We Remian with Best Regards
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Right Dressing Can Boost Your Confidence

2009-02-23T19:11:00.000-08:00

Geography isn’t as important as it once was in determining how dress. As the world population is exposed to more and
more of the same influences, tastes, inevitably, have become more global, less local. So, when traveling for business,basic professional attire is appropriate just about anywhere like a tourist it is helpful to understand the tendencies in different parts of the United States and the world. You should be able to remix items from your existing wardrobe to suit any destination.

MIDWEST - CHICAGO AND DETROIT

Cities like Chicago and Detroit are more cosmopolitan than other parts of the Midwest, and women dress up for work in.

Suits. In Minneapolis and other women are comfortable with a more workday, casual look, wearing Khakis and Sweater sets.

Evening: A lot of entertaining is corporate in the Midwest. Black-tie fund raising events take place quite often in these cities. Women wear Cocktail Dresses or Pant Suits to black-tie events in dressy fabrics like velvet and satin.

Accessories are dressy and unique. Preferred colors for formal dress in the Midwest are black, deep browns, midnight,navies, and dark purples.

NORTHEAST - BOSTON

Boston is an intellectual city, which gives rise to individualism and trend-setting. However, there is a division between suburban and urban women in terms of fashion. The suburban women are slightly more conservative and wear brighter
colors and lower hemlines. The city woman prefers trendier fashions in more subdued colors and with higher hemlines.

Evening: Urban and suburban women prefer the little Black Evening Dress but personalize it with a Jacket. Because of the cobblestone streets and the periodically inclement weather, women most often wear low heels.

NORTHEAST - NEW YORK

New York City is considered the fashion hub of the country, and Business Women are fashion-conscious and impeccably groomed, yet iconoclastic. Colors are urban standard: black, charcoal, chocolate, beige, with, and splashes of color. Pedicures, manicures, a well-maintained hairstyle and color, and groomed eyebrows are essentials.

Well - Tailored Suits are standard in most industries.

Evening: For most formal parties, Long Dresses with quality accessories will do nicely: the old-money society set dresses simply and elegantly for black-tie charity functions; glitterati-literati openings and events, women dress dramatically and not necessarily in a traditionally formal manner. The newest, cutting-edge designs are popular. Many New York women own a little black dress, which can be worn to a variety of events simply by adding or subtracting accessories. They often mix separates, which contributes to enormous personal style, a hallmark of New York dressing. Suburban New Yorkers are much more relaxed and colorful.

NORTHEAST - WASHINGTON, DC

The Suit is a key in DC and traditionally a realm where women can shine and pull focus through color, though more and more are being. The no-nonsense suit is worn after dark, dressed up with a scarf or pin. A lot of women in DC tend to avoid making over fashion statements and generally frown upon seductive dressing, preferring that their political views, power, and influence make their statement.

Evening: Entertaining in Washington often takes place in the home. Politics is the talk read the newspapers, magazines, and listens to the news on TV and radio to keep up.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST- SEATTLE

Women are more concerned with being comfortable than with being on the cutting edge of fashion. Working women tend to dress business casual, wearing pants, blouses, and sweaters and only resorting. Accessories are where women indulge in being fashionable.

Evening: For formal occasions, women tend to wear a classic dress (hem to the keen; not a cocktail suit)in black or jewel tones.

THE ROCKIES - DENVER
Dressing for work in the Rockies is business casual: Pants or khakis with a blouse, sweater, or crisp white a blouse, sweater, or crisp white shirt. Color and accessories like belts and earrings is a key.

Evening: There are more charity functions per capital in Denver than in any other city in the country, providing many occasions for formal dress.
Women’s evening wear is understated and elegant. The little black cocktail dress predominates, but women will wear ankle-length gowns for very grand events. Many events in Denver call for “Creative Western Elegance.” Women
typically wear broomstick skirts and matching Western jackets with nickel or silver conch buttons.

SOUTHEAST - ATLANTA

Atlanta is a casual city, but the city’s booming business sector has attracted people from around the world, and the professional dress code is fast becoming that of a larger metropolis.
Women wear conservative suits or business appropriate skirts or pants and blouses, with mid-height heels. Black is not a popular choice in this vibrant city. On the popular are prevalent colors among women. Society women wear khakis, the “great white shirt”

Evening: Women are practical but not prissy. Style is always ladylike, which is the most important dressing guideline for women. Tailored feminine elegance is admired more than trendy extremes; women prefer clothing that can be worn
both to the office and to symphony.

SOUTHWEST - HOUSTON

Texas women have a well-deserved reputation for being the most dressed, if not the best dressed, in the nation.
Career women wear Skirt or Pant Suits in bright color with Feminine Blouses. It is not unusual for women in Houston or Dallas to change clothes three times a day exercise clothes, business attire, evening wear. Heat, humidity, bitter
cold, and the chill of air-conditioning have a lot to do with this.

Evening: Unlike in many other cities, career women almost always change clothes for the evening, whether it is a cocktail suit, dress, or formal wear. If a woman has good jewelry stones one might refer to as “jewelry” rather than
jewelry she wants clothes the show these off.

TROPICAL - MIAMI

Business wear has been influenced by the influx of South and Central Americans conducting business in this region.
Clothing is more feminine than in other cities, with shorter hemlines and higher heels. Business attire has a light,tropical feel, with suits tending toward light neutrals and dresses more prevalent than they are in other cities.

TROPICAL - PALM BEACH

Thought they, re geographically close, Miami and Palm Beach are worlds apart. Palm Beach sports an old-school, old-money look. Business attire in the two cities is similar.

WEST COAST - LOS Angeles

Business dressing is divided into three categories in Los Angeles, and all of them revolve around, or take their clues from, Hollywood:

1.The execs-the people who work in the offices and make decisions about money wear dark suits, whether they are men or women. LA is less designer label-conscious than a city like New York.
2.The creative execs-agent, PR executives, and producers all fall into this category-dress corporate creative, which means trendy, hip clothes that have professional polish: From-fitting pants with a crisp white shirt or dress with boots.
3. The talent-anyone from an actress to a director dress extremely casual, while still being responsive to the season’s new trends.

Evening: Aside from red carpet events, LA occasions rarely call for formal attire. One might wear Pants and a Top,possibly a Jacket, unless it was an opening night, and then a Pant Suit in silk or linen. At a museum party or slightly formal affair, a cocktail dress will be worn, and more Pantsuits in silk or linen. At movie premieres, the stars wear Short Dresses or Pantsuits, always designer wear, sometimes mixed with vintage clothes.

WEST COAST

Women are sophisticated, formal, and European in style. Weather is variable
September and October are the warmest months and demands a season less wardrobe. Light wool crepes and season less silks are favored; there is little need for heavy winter overcoats or clothing for steamy climates.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Dressing For Success

2009-02-09T21:00:00.001-08:00

DRESSING FOR YOUR NEXT POSITION

Power dressing means looking ahead, knowing the path you want to take, and preparing yourself for it in every way. You wouldn’t expect to be hired for a job and then acquire the skills necessary to do it. The same is true for your look: The higher you rise, the more subtle the cues. No one is going to run the risk of “We’ll see if he’s up to it or ends up looking the part.” You have to look and act your future now. Dress for tomorrow. Act as though you’ve already reached your goals and you’re halfway there.
HOW TO LOOK MORE

Professional : Wear a suit. If you already wear a suit, upgrade your suit-better fabric, better tailoring Choose details that instantly signal polish and decorum, such as sleek high heels, a crisp, collared shirt, or pearls. Other symbols of corporate credibility:
Dark colors and immaculate grooming, and anything that suggests utter organization,

Responsible/Reliable: Make sure every detail is attended to.
Have a great haircut. Get a manicure. Organize the elements in your handbag. Have your shoes polished.

Management-worthy : Good management is a balance between approachability and authority. Cultivate a refined mix of the two styles by giving a laid-back look a single splash of authority. For a softer corporate look., wear a suede jacket with a pencil skirt and high heels. Or choose a relaxed beige suit-khakis with a sleek suit jacket.

Independent : Take a risk. Deviate from the norm. If your colleagues are stuck in a middle-of-the-road business appropriate rut, wear a suit. Wear it with a colorful blouse. If you’re surrounded by suits, wear your with a denim shirt. Or red stilettos. If you wear glasses, choose frames that express your style. If you don’t wear glasses, consider getting a pair as a fashion statement.

Open : Unbutton your shirt collar a little.Don’t lacquer every hair in place with spray. Try a sweater set in place of a suit jacket.
Every once meaning or a pair of feminine sling backs.

Creative : Express a little personal style. Wear a scarf in your hair. Test drive the latest trendy shoes. Try the season’s key-lime green, gypsy purple. Wear a necklace, bracelet, or earrings that you love. Tamper with the corporate dress code.

Authoritative : Upgrade your suits. Upgrade your shoes, your handbag, and your coat-fine fabric and expert handwork indicate serious business. Wear details that signal power and command, such as pinstripes or the color red. Invest in a high-quality, signature accessory, like a Hermes scarf or a designer handbag.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Perfect Interview Wardrobe

2009-01-28T21:38:00.001-08:00

Interview Wardrobe

The clothes you choose to wear to your interview will create the first-and most important-impression upon those who matter, up until your first day on the job. At that point, you can start to relax into the club’s attire. But at this point, dressing to impress is mandatory, and the clothes you choose are critical. This section discusses the interview wardrobe’s key pieces, and the messages they send.
“At one time, the most qualified person got the job. Today, in a situation where three people with equal qualification are interviewed for a job, the one with the best communication skills gets it.”

WHAT DO YOUR CLOTHES SAY TO THE INTERVIEWER?

BLOUSE
Uptight or Elegant?
PEARLS Pretentious or Pulled together?

SUIT JACKET

Suit Jacket Long ago pilfered from menswear , the jacket acts a strong, no-nonsense centerpiece to any business look. It gives the body shape, suggests stature, and imparts the wearer with confidence. Because its overall intent is to convey power, a jacket’s workmanship, quality, and tailoring are critical.

FABRIC Should drape smoothly, not appear stiff, shiny, or flimsy.
COLOR Neural-black, gray, navy’ or beige.
SHAPE Slightly nipped in at waist.
POCKETS Optional pockets lie flat and are lined. Do not remove string to open.
LENGTH Hem extends to the bottom of the hips.
SLEEVES Sleeves land at the base of the thumb.
COLLAR Collar lies smooth and flat against the neck.
SHOULDERS Shoulders are structured but not overpadded.
LAPELS Medium to small lapels<3”1/4 from seam to point is ideal> lie flat without buckling.
FIT Armholes should fit well-not too baddy, no too tight; this part of the jacket can’t be tailored.
STYLE Single-breasted.
BUTTONS Buttons are the same color or darker than the suit and never too large, flashy, or covered in fabric.

Suit Skirt

WHAT IT SAYS
Formal, urban, conservative.
FABRIC Drapes smoothly.
NO BELT LOOPS
SHAPE Simple-a-lime or straight, not too tight and never frilly.
DETAILS For maximun versatility, the waist should not require a belt.
FIT Skirt should not be too tight or too short-do a sitting text in tit before purchasing. Check the rearview mirror. What look fabulous from the front can cling or slouch from other angles.
QUALITY Make sure seams are even and not pulled. Check that lining is firmly intact.
LENGTH To the knee. It’s the length that says, “I’m professional” and looks best on most legs. Shorter could be considered too fashiony; longer, more traditional.

Suit Pants
WHAT IT SAYS
Confident, contemporary, practical.
FIT Pants should drape smoothly over the body, with no tight areas that droop. Check that the pocket lining is smooth and not bulky.
OUALITY Check that fabric hangs evenly and seams are not mismatched or pulled.
THE BOTTOM LINE The seat of the pants should be neither overly baggy nor clingy. To ensure proper fit, check your rearview mirror and sit down while wearing the pants.
ZIP CODE Side, front, or rear closure are acceptable.
BANISH BELT LOOPS
For your first suit, a clean waistline is the most flexible. Belt loops always require a belt and that your top is tucked in.
FLAT FRONT VS. PLEATS
Both are professional; the flat front is more slimming and sophisticated.
LENGTH
The pant leg should break at the instep. When having your pants hemmed, bring the shoe you will most often wear with them.
CUFFED LEG VS. CLEAN
Both are acceptable; a clean leg is more versatile.

Tops are key wardrobe enhancers: Change your top and essentially you’ve changed your look. Choose shirts and that are compatible with your suits. Make sure each top fits comfortably under your suit jacket-and looks suitably professional should you take your jacket off.
BLOUSE
A soft, somewhat loose feminine top. Conservative, confident, ladylike. FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, cream, black, or a color to match your suit.
SHIRT
Button-front, cuffed-and-collared top inspired by menswear. Efficient, classic; respects authority. Choose a classic, men’s style dress collar; a button-down can be limiting. FIRST PURCHASE; Solid, white cotton.
T-SHIRT
Trim, collarless, cotton or jersey top. Easygoing but organized. Ready to roll up your sleeves Choose substantial, opaque cotton or cotton blend with stretch-anything flimsy will lose its shape. Make sure neck is not saggy or baggy. Keep it plain . Try a shot of color.

FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, black, or to match the color of your suit.
1 JACKET+4 TOPS = 3 DRESS CODES
Shoes

Never underestimate the power of shoes. A good pair can make a ho-hum dress look like a million bucks. The wrong ones can send a great suit straight into the gutter. Shoes also tend to make at-a-glance statements about your workplace identity, and your message better be clear-I’m capable, confident, and yes, great with derails.

Portfolio
A portfolio is a sleek and efficient alternative to the handbag. It can help keep resumes presentable, hold a notepad, and conceal any preinterview cheat sheets you want to study en route to your meeting.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Right Suit For Your Body

2009-01-04T21:16:00.000-08:00

Which Suit Is Right For You?

Choosing the right suit presents a closet-full of challenges and opportunities to those faced with building a wardrobe. From suit silhouettes, pricing and fashionable obsolescence to pant fronts, button counts and lapel widths, there's much to consider.

"The biggest problem in teaching men how to dress is that there's no one for them to look at," says Alan Flusser, author of Dressing the Man (Harper Collins, 2002), who believes that one of the primary reasons business casual failed is that the apparel industry never showed men how to look good in it. "Men in general definitely need help with suits. But once it's explained why they should buy a particular garment, they're pretty quick studies."

Suits can be broken down into three basic styles:
European (i.e., Italian), British and American. The European suit typically has padded shoulders, no vents, a full-chested and V-shaped jacket and "slash"--i.e., flapless--pockets. Across the English Channel, the classic British suit sports a military demeanor with padded shoulders, two vents, pinched waist, flap pockets and boldly striped or plaid patterns. On our side of the pond, the epitome of traditional American styling is the "sack suit" favored by Ivy Leaguers back in the 1920s, with natural shoulders, one vent in the back, straight-hanging lines and flap pockets. Many designers cross cultural lines, such as Bronx native Ralph Lauren, who has a distinct Anglo-Saxon sensibility, and the Italianesque ensembles of American Joseph Abboud.

For tailoring options, the bespoke suit is the finest. Best exemplified by the enduring shops of London's Savile Row, such as Anderson & Sheppard and H. Huntsman, bespoke suits are created by exacting teams of highly skilled tailors and artisans to fit your every inch. They may take up to five fittings and six weeks of work to complete, and starting prices run upwards of $3,000. Meanwhile, Hong Kong is loaded with bespoke tailors who, though not the bargain they used to be, can still get you fitted nicely--and for a lot less than three grand.

Off-the-rack suits are the least costly and the most convenient option, provided you're happy with the fabric and fit. But these days many suit makers also offer a "made-to-measure" alternative that allows customers to choose the fabric, styling options and details before allowing a tailor to take measurements and forward the order to the factory. A semi-finished suit is then returned to the store for fitting and finishing. Brioni, Kiton, Hickey-Freeman and others offer made-to-measure lines, as do specialty men's stores such as Louis Boston. Expect prices to run 15%-25% above off-the-rack.

Whatever the tailoring option, men's suits are either "full canvas"--i.e., handmade with a free-floating piece of material between the jacket's exterior fabric and interior lining--"fused" together with glue, or some combination of the two. The benefits of full-canvas construction include attention to detail, durability and a freer and more natural appearance. Though fused suits tend to be stiffer and their glue breaks down over time, they are also vastly more affordable, with prices ranging from $200 to $1,000.

Suit fabrics come in a wide array of colors, patterns and qualities: Hickey-Freeman has some 700 swatches available for special order, while H. Huntsman's wools range from Super 90s to Super 200s--a grading designation that refers to the number of centimeters a single piece of yarn can be stretched. The longer the stretch, the higher the quality, the more luxurious the feel and the lighter the weight of the yarn.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Style & Fashion

2008-12-11T20:47:00.001-08:00

Once you get into stratospheric price levels, it makes sense to ask yourself whether you're making an investment or buying a fashion item. Both have their pluses and minuses. While an immaculately rendered and classically tailored suit may last ten or 20 years and never go out of style, it'll hardly get you noticed in a crowd. Meanwhile, slick fashion suits will have you looking like a rock star, but only for a couple of years.

"The choice between fashion and longevity is a very personal one," says Michael Bastian, men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, who notes that he has several fashion suits that he wears only once every five or six years. "The best strategy is to play with them."

Indeed, playfulness is one of the defining characteristics of the latest generation of suit buyers. "Suits are definitely back, but in a more personal way," says Bastian. "The younger guys are treating suits more as an integrated part of their wardrobe--pairing jackets or pants with less traditional elements for distinctly personal looks. If they wear a tie now it's because they want to, not because their suit needs one."

That same philosophy is gradually making its way into corporate culture. "When it comes to a wardrobe, there's no longer the same emphasis on distinguishing between going to work and socializing," says Lauren Solomon, a New York-based image consultant who spent four years as the in-house image specialist at Chase Manhattan and now teaches "The Brand Called Me," a mandatory mini-course at New York University's Stern School of Business. "Your business wardrobe shouldn't be just navy and gray suits anymore, and your social wardrobe shouldn't be just corduroys. Wherever you're going these days, you're doing business, and you need to feel good about what you're wearing at any given moment."

Still, a suit must be appropriate to a region or industry. "What works in financial services in major metropolitan areas is not going to fly out in the middle of nowhere," notes Solomon. For instance, the light blues, greens, taupes and beiges one can get away with in the entertainment industry might not work in financial services, where dark solids, pinstripes and subtle patterns still hold sway. Similarly, the brighter colors and more creative styles of the West Coast look awkward and silly in laid-back New England or the conservative Midwest.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

New Laws Of Fashion Part 1

2008-09-23T22:04:00.001-07:00

With more quality available to the American man than ever before, there are also more pitfalls. To help you navigate our expanding sartorial world, here are Esquire’s fifty new laws of fashion. Commit them to memory. Break them if you like. (We’ll tell you how.) Then go undaunted.

1. YOU WEAR THE CLOTHES, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND.

2. INVESTING IN QUALITY OFTEN MEANS INVESTING IN THE THINGS YOU CAN’T SEE. Like the movement inside a mechanical watch, the full hand-canvasing in a jacket or single breasted suits, or the hand-stitched uppers of your shoes.

3. BLUE JEANS ARE GOOD; DARK-BLUE JEANS ARE BETTER. Leave the boot cuts to cowgirls and black denim to ex-cons.

4. CELEBRITIES LOOK GOOD IN CLOTHES FOR TWO REASONS: a) They’re famous. b) They have someone whose full-time job is to dress them. Don’t get discouraged. Get famous.

5. YOU SHOULD DRESS FOR AIR TRAVEL AS IF IT WERE STILL A PRIVILEGE. Start with a collared shirt and a tailored jacket. And if you can’t bear wearing proper shoes, low-key leather sneakers will do. Ditch the sweatpants, though. You’re not at the gym. How to break it: Flying private gives you sartorial carte blanche.

6. A WELL MADE AND PROPERLY KEPT SHOE WILL LAST YOU THREE DECADES. When shopping for your feet, remember to invest in leather soles and uppers and Goodyear-worthy welts. Remember, too, that all-leather shoes are easier to rebuild. How to break it: If it’s obvious that your loafers are from the seventies, retire them.

7. WOODEN SHOE TREES ARE A GOOD IDEA. But you need only one pair. Put them in the shoes you’ve been wearing all day. The shoe, warmed and wet from your body heat and perspiration, will contract as it cools over the shape of the tree and return to its original form. Within an hour or two, the tree has done its job. Leather Tramezza shoes (made to measure, starting at $810) by Salvatore Ferragamo.

8. THERE ARE TWO WAYS YOU SHOULD STORE YOUR TIE: 1) Lay it flat in a drawer. 2) Roll it up like a Swiss roll by folding it once and then rolling it from the narrow end. Both methods allow the tie to settle and regain its shape overnight.

9. BROADEN YOUR COLOR WHEEL. Colors that real men actually look good in, though they don’t realize it (one item of clothing at a time, please): pink, turquoise, and coral.

10. IT’S BETTER TO BE OVERDRESSED THAN UNDERDRESSED. Being thought eccentric for wearing a tux to a swim meet is preferable to wearing a T-shirt and jeans to a wedding.

12. IN YOUR MEDICINE CABINET: one razor, one bar of shaving soap, a shaving brush, a comb, deodorant, nail clippers, hair gel, toothpaste, and a toothbrush. Done.

13. BUY THE SUIT THAT FITS, NOT THE ONE YOU WISH YOU COULD FIT INTO. A suit that’s too tight will make you look fat. And while an oversized suit may seem more comfortable, in reality you’ll just look like a ten-year-old playing dress-up. In between the two is the suit that fits.

14. WOMEN ARE SEXY WHEN WEARING ONE ITEM OF MEN’S CLOTHING. How to break it: Or nothing at all.

15. WATERPROOF AND WATER-RESISTANT: There’s a big difference.

16. WET SHOES SHOULD BE DRIED IN A WARM PLACE NEAR AN OVEN (BUT NEVER IN ONE). But be careful: Rapid drying can irreversibly crack the leather.

17. "A WELL-TIED TIE IS THE FIRST SERIOUS STEP IN LIFE." —OSCAR WILDE

18. BE SUSPICIOUS OF THE GUY IN THE STATE U. SWEATSHIRT. Varsity sweatshirts are usually worn by people on whom the educational establishment in question had no lasting or useful impact at all or by people who paid for their kids to go there and would dearly like to advertise the fact. How to break it: Let go of suspicion if you live within twenty miles of a Big Ten school.

19. YOUR EYEGLASSES SHOULD CONTRAST, NOT MIMIC, THE SHAPE OF YOUR FACE. Here’s a quick guide, courtesy of renowned eyeglass designer Richard Morgenthal.

Your shape: Heart
Your specs: A heart-shaped face already has a lot of definition. Since your head is top-heavy, go for a geometric frame that gives some width to the lower half of your face.

Your shape: Square
Your specs: Since a square face already has angles, go for a round or oval frame that shapes your cheekbones. A decorative frame with width will often do the trick.

Your shape: Round
Your specs: Avoid dark frames; they only make your face appear heavy. A round face needs direction, so opt for angular and narrow frames—never a square or a circle.

Your shape: Oval
Your specs: A modern rectangle is best for an oval face. Because your face is longer than it is wide, you’ll need frames that provide width. If your face is wider than it is long, go the opposite way.

20. IN THE NEW JEANS-AND-A-SUIT-JACKET ENVIRONMENT, A POCKET SQUARE CAN STAND IN FOR A TIE. Here’s how.

Astaire: To be done only with a silk handkerchief. Begin by spreading the material across a flat surface and pinching at the center, allowing the fabric to pillow around the pinch. Only an elegant pattern will do.

Churchill: Constructed in the same fashion as the Astaire pocket square but with the additional step of folding up the corners. This style is slightly more ragged in a very purposeful way. Must still be done with silk.

JFK: The structured nature of this style can be done with almost any material: silk, linen, or cotton. Very measured and exact, it calls for a quiet pattern on the hankie and is usually worn by men you’d trust to invest your money.

Bond, James: Straight out of the 1960s comes this straight-across approach. Donned by spies, news anchors, and heads of state, this style is simple and clean. It should be done with a white linen or cotton handkerchief.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Dress Smart For The New Workplace

2008-09-23T21:57:00.001-07:00

Your Investment Strategy

SHOP SMART BUY LESS, BUY BETTER
This step in the wardrobe building process is important: Clothes take up real estate. And salary. The key is to buy less, better ,and buy clothes that will work together. Filling your closet with well-chosen, good quality, versatile pieces will enable you to “work” your wardrobe by mixing and remixing.
The result: Endless combinations that don’t require an endless supply of clothes.
Buy the best you can afford on your budget. You’ll go home with fewer items, but they will be of better quality. This is especially important when purchasing items worn every day-coats, shoes handbags-the better the quality, the bigger your return will be. In general:
• Clothes in season less fabrics are the best investment. They can be worn most of the year, and pack well. The best are lightweight knits.
• Don’t buy the color of the moment if it makes your face look drab or your body bulky. Wear it as an accent strategically placed.
• If a color gives you a glow, and makes you smile with approval, incorporate it into your wardrobe mix. Not only will you feel best wearing it, it will become a mark of your personal style.
• One very good quality item can upgrade almost any outfit.
• When you find a brand that suits you, in the future.

WHAT IT TAKES TO BUILD A WARDROBE• It takes time.
• It takes focus.
• It takes Patience.
• It takes work.
• It takes restraint.
• It takes self-knowledge.
• It takes a budget.
• It takes boldness.
• It takes enterprise.
• It takes commitment.

Shop Smart
The goal: To broaden your closet with wardrobe enhancers (well-chosen items that go with other clothes in your closet and expand their possibilities immeasurably). Among the enhancers of choice: A smattering of shirt and blouses (to go under jackets and spruce up skirts), sweater sets and other bright knits, and tailored separates that take the pressure off the single suit that helped you soar through your early years with flying colors .
How to Buy a Work Outfit

SHOP SMART: THE JACKET
A jacket is professional in appearance and pulls and outfit together. It is also a good way to add color, pattern, or texture to your wardrobe mix. Shop for jackets that complement your suit bottoms. This will give your wardrobe more mileage. If in doubt about mixing things up, a safe bet is to wear all black as a base.
Black = Sophisticated, urban. It’s the most versatile.
Navy = Classic but difficult to match with other shades of navy.
Gray = Serious business.
Beige = Sleek, skillful, and friendly.
Red = powerful.
Fabric:
Year round: Lightweight wool, worsted wool, and wool crepe.
Summer: Cotton blends, seersucker, featherweight wool, linen blends.
Fall and winter: Wool, wool blends, cashmere, corduroy, gabardine, tweed, suede, velvet.
Pattern: Solid, pinstripe, plaid, tweed, houndstooth.

SHOP SMART: SHIRTS
A change of shirt will change your look. Your closet should contain about at least five tops. Be sure to buy colors or patterns that complement on their own.
• Shirt sleeves should hit the base of the thumb, and extend about a half an inch beyond the sleeve of the jacket.
• There should be enough room in sleeves so you can move your arms comfortably, but not too much that sleeves get bunched up when worn with suit jacket.
• When buttoned up, you should be able to breathe comfortably and there should be no hint of your undergarments or nipples.
• Straight hem: Can be worn untucked in casual environment.
• Fitted: Crisp and clean, feminine style.

• Rounded collar: Delicate, traditional.
• Spread collar: Best worn outside jacket for splash of style.
• Button-down collar: Man-inspired, down-to-business, sporty.
• Collarless: Creative, independent.
Color.
Cream = Sophisticated, feminine, approachable.
White = Crisp, classic, down-to-business; wardrobe basic.
Black = Sharp, powerful, assertive.
Monochromatic = Clean, contemporary, elegant.
Fabric: Those with stretch add comfort.
• Cotton: Clean, crisp.
• Silk: Formal, conservative, dressy.
• Jersey: Easy upkeep, comfortable.

SHOP SMART: KNIT TOPS
Knits can introduce color and texture, and when worn as a sweater set provide a feminine alternative to a suit jacket. The lighter the weight the more sophisticated the knit, but beware of sheerness, which is never right in the workplace.
Quality is determined by how pure the yarn is and how tighter the knit, the higher the gauge. A one-ply sweater will be a lighter weight, but tighter-knit than a two-ply sweater. An eight-ply knit is very heavy and loosely knit, and more sporty than a one- or two-ply knit. The lighter the weight, the more likely a knit is to shrink, so dry-clean only. Lighter shades take less dye so softer in feel than draker colors, which use stronger dye.
Fit: Should be fitted, but not tight; too baggy can look sloppy.
• Everything about a turtleneck depends on its fit. Anything oversized or baggy is too casual for the office.
Texture:
• One-ply cashmere is light and more versatile than thicker plies.
• A flat knit is dressier and more versatile than a ribbed one. Worn under a suit jacket, however, the ribbed knit creates a tailored, sporty look.
Fabrics: A top quality merino wool or cotton knit is superior to a poor quality cashmere, which will easily pill and droop.
Color: A sweater is a perfect way to add a dash of color to a neutral suit, whether the season’s trendy shade or one that has always suited you.
Smart Options:
Twinset = Classic, feminine.
The black turtleneck = Edgy, urban. Has attitude.
V-neck = Preppy, casual.

SHOP SMART: SKIRTS
A straight, black, knee-length skirt in lightweight wool a clean waist-no belt loops-is acceptable in even the most conservative settings. It is slimming, can easily mix with other wardrobe items, and can dress up or down.
Fit:
• A slender heel keeps a knee-length skirt from looking overly sensible .
• A fuller skirt looks best with a fitted top and flatters most body types .
• Straight = To the point, classic, smart.
• A-line = Sensible, friendly.
• Bias-cut = Dressy, sexy.
• Pleated = Youthful, flirty.
Fabric: Should not be heavy or stiff but have a soft drape.
• Lightweight wool: Seasonless, versatile, can be paired with any other teture.
• Jersey: Lightweight stretch fabric best for spring, summer, and early fall.
• Cotton : Ideal for spring, summer, and early fall.
• Silk: A more dressed-up look, appropriate for spring and fall.
• Knit: least versatile option . Both light and heavier weaves are acceptable. Best to purchase with a matching top.

SHOP SMART: PANTS
Fit: Use a three-way mirror. If you have a panty line, invest in a thong. Try on panty with the shoes you plan to wear with them to ensure they break softly no top of your shoes. If you are short, avoid visually. Avoid pants that tug against tummy or things-try a cut with pleats, a fuller leg, or fabric that drapes. If a waistband is casing waist, avoid belts, or wear with tops that are just loose enough to camouflage. Pockets should not pull. Tailors can remove troublesome or visible pockets. Fabric should drape smoothly over the hips to the floor, without pulling or bagging. A fabric that has stretch can make pants more comfortable, fit the body bet

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

What To Wear For Interview - Interview Attire

2008-06-20T01:10:00.001-07:00

THE INTERVIEW WARDROBE-TOOLS TO SUCCESS

When you meet your interviewer for the time, what impression do you want to give? If you want to say, I'm pretty, wear your favorite frilly blouse. If you want to say, I'm laid-back wear the V-neck sweater you loved in college. If you want to say, I'm more competent, reliable, and professional than any candidate you will interview for this position-in other words, if you want the job-step one is: Invest in suit.
Sharp lines and authoritative stance-a suit says power, reliability, independence. And it can make you feel as confident as you look. Your interview suit-and everything that goes with-is the first tool on your prepare you to buy an interview suit and the business gear to go with it.

WHAT IS AN INTERVIEW SUIT?
Whether you are just starting out or a CEO looking to switch companies, your interview suit must convey a confident, competent "I've got it together" sense of authority. This is best a accomplished with a dark, monochromatic tone (avoid patterns) and a classic cut. That means clean, simple lines around which you will build your entire business wardrobe. Looking sharp doesn't stop once the interview is over-there is always someone for whom you need to look smart.

Shop Smart Suit
Call it the little suit that could. Your interview suit will act as the foundation of your business wardrobe, and you will wear it constantly. This chapter gets down to the nitty-gritty of choosing it well: How a tailored shape and good fabric convey competence; how a neutral color translates to flexibility; how taking your time, choosing a classic, and then having it properly tailored provide the best guarantee that you have spent your money well.

How to Buy an Interview Outfit:

BEST BUY: SUIT SEPARATES
Leave it to the English shopkeeper to discover a new truth. Years ago, Marks & Spencer, the Macy's of London, made a remarkable discovery-not all men were the same proportion. Some are big on top and narrow in the hips, or, as was more often the case, vice versa.
With this eureka moment, the haberdashers launched the concept of suit separates: Pants that fit the waist and a jacket that fit the top, whether the sizes correlated or not. And the concept works even better for women, allowing more flexibility for both size and style. Here is a list of the separates a common business wardrobe will contain

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Color: Neutral colors are versatile and professional.
Black is sophisticated, appropriate all year, and dresses up or down.
Gray, navy, and beige convey competence and easily mix with other clothes.
But beware of brown: It is seasonal, can come off as muddy(not meticulous), and is often incompatible with other colors.

Fabric:The more seasonless the fabric, the longer it will serve you.
1 Choose lightweight wool or wool blends that can be worn throughout the year.

2. A bit of Lycra, polyester, or other microfiber helps a garment retain its shape and increases the longevity of your investment.
3. Avoid knits, jerseys, and nubby tweeds for your first and main suit. They're too casual and more difficult to wear with other wardrobe pieces.
4. Before buying check for wrinkling: Clutch a handful of fabric and release it. If the material winds up in a crumple, it will certainly look that way after your commute to work.
5. Avoid clingy fabrics (some jerseys and knits) and anything with static-chances are no amount of spray will kill it.
6. Pants and skirts in thin fabrics must be lined. If a rearview mirror check displays visible panty lines , move on to the next suit-or buy a thong!

Fit:
Tailoring is mandatory-it's the detail work that will transform your suit from an mass into an emblem of power. But prior to visiting the tailor, certain key details must be checked:
1. Button the jacket. Does it pull? Do you arms move freely in it? Do the bust, shoulder, and rear seams hang well without bunching?
2. Make sure shoulders are not too round, pointy, or boxy. They shouldn't make the statement, you should.
3. Button the pants and find a three way mirror. Do you have a panty line? Is the rear too tight? Does the crotch cling or hang too low? A tailor is a great ally, but a baggy or saggy crotch cannot be fixed. An ill-fitting waistline can be taken in, and occasionally let out, if necessary. Sit. Do you feel comfortable or do the pants pull or does your skirt ride too high? And when you shop for pants or visit the tailor bring the shoes you plan to wear with them to get a proper break at the hem.

Quality/Finish:
1. Scan fabric for unnatural ripples or gatherings, which are often the result of inexpensive material and poor workmanship.
2. Make sure shoulder pads are equally positioned and the same size and that the shoulder line is smooth from end to end, front and back.
3. Buttons should be firmly attached and evenly spaced, with no loose threads.
4. Check seams for taut stitching that is neither loose nor pulled.
5. Lining should be made from a satiny material that allows for body movement.

SHOP SMART: SHIRTS
* Fabric is not so sheer that underwear or body parts are noticeable.
* Collar should not be overly large nor especially small. An average collar should be approximatey21/2 "from the collar point
* Buttons should be bone, mother-of-pearl, or animal horn.
* Avoid frilly collars and sleeves, which tend to flop out from under a jacket.
* Length must be ample enough to stay tucked in, but not so extreme that you're swimming in fabric.
* When cuffs are buttoned, you should be able to move arms comfortably.

Fit:
Should not be too baggy, definitely not tight. Bra line, breast, or nipple definition should not be apparent. Cotton is the most practical fabric and comes in a wide variety of grades and texture:
* Pima: strong, silky, most expensive.
* Sea Island: strong and lustrous.
* Oxford cloth: men's shirting fabric made in a basket weave; considered sporty.

Silk is dressier than cotton.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Practices For Formal Dressing

2008-05-30T01:15:00.001-07:00

Practices for Formal Dressing

1. You don’t have to spend a lot on clothes to look like you’ve spent a lot.
2. Dark color will always look more authoritative.
3. Classics are classics for a reason.
4. Dressing appropriately is like having good manners.
5. A tie should always be tied and in place, not worn half mast.
6. Nobody sees the label.
7. Quality is more important than quantity.
8. When in doubt, wear navy.
9. Or gray.
10. Clothes don’t make the man. (Though they can fake the man.)

TIPS OF SMART SHOPPING
1. Dress appropriately for the stores you will be shopping in.
2. Wear a white dress shirt, dress socks, and the shoes you would wear for the outfit.
3. Always try things on.
4. Always look in the mirror (preferably a there-way mirror)
5. If it doesn’t look good in the store, it won’t look good at home.
6. There’s nothing with the lights in the store.
7. When something is on sale, don’t buy it unless you would have bought it at full price .
8. Something that’s a little big can be tailored to fit. Something that’s tight will only get tighter.
9. Shoes don’t stretch.
10. The salesperson is supposed to tell you it looks great on you.

DEADLY SINS
1. Jackets that are too tight in the shoulders, snug in the waist, and won’t button make you look like a trussed turkey.
2. Wear socks to the office, unless you work at the beach.
3. Just because it looked good on you ten years ago, doesn’t mean it still does (refer back to deadly sin one).
4. Until you see the animals lining up in twos, don’t have your pants tailored too short. They should have a break. Don’t let your jacket be too short (your bottom line should never be visible).
5. Belt are to hold up your pants not some sort of technology tool holder. Pagers, phones and other digital elements belong in jacket pockets.
6. Pants that are too baggy look silly and pants that are too tight just look uncomfortable.
7. Wearing suspenders and a belt is redundant…and redundant.
8. You will look like a squeezed tube of toothpaste if your shirt is too tight in the collar.
9. Hoods on overcoats.
10. If you have to ask if it goes together, it probably doesn’t.

Strategic Dressing-Learning to Read the Landscape

WHO LOOKS PROFESSIONAL AND WHAT ARE THEY WEARING?
One of the basic rules of office attire is: Dress for the job you want to have, not the job you have. So look around. Who has that job now? And how does he dress for that job? Now, who does he work for? And so no. Every office or corporation has a dress code. Learning to read yours properly is a major step toward getting ahead.

ALL DRESSED UP AND SOMEWHERE TO GO
Once you have cracked the office dress code, you have to consider what to wear for different professional occasions and situations. What may be appropriate for a morning meeting might not work for a business lunch or for a presentation. Begin by asking yourself what message you want to send and then find the appropriate clothes in your closet. Here a few different scenarios:

Leading a meeting. Obviously what you’re after here is authority, and nothing says authority like a suit. (After all, there’s reason why when people refer to management they call them “suits”) Since, in many offices, men remove their jackets while working, pay attention to the shirt you’re wearing: Make sure it’s crisp and clean.

Giving a presentation. When giving a presentation, you clearly want to have authority and draw attention to yourself. The key here is not to draw so much attention that you take away from the presentation.
Once again, a suit is called for with a shirt and tie. And here is how you draw attention to yourself: With the tie. Without being too ostentations or visually distracting, the shirt-and-tie combination should reflect power. Perhaps a shirt with French cuffs and a woven tie?

Client lunch. It is, of course, most important to come across as professional, but you must also be able to read the culture of the culture of the person (or people) you are meeting. Do they wear suits? Sport jacket? What about ties? The goal here is to be yourself but, at the client by dressing more formally than they do; rather, show them the proper respect by dressing up more than you normally do if their corporate culture is more formal than yours.

Job review. This is just like a job interview so look your best. If you normally wear a suit to office, do so now. If you don’t usually wear one, doing so will only make you look stiff and feel uncomfortable. In that case, you should still dress up: Wear a sport jacket and tie. Show that you care, but don’t look at thought you’re trying too hard.

Boss wants to have drinks. First of all, relax. It’s only good. If you wear in trouble, you would go to boss, the boss, the boss wouldn’t come to you. That said, look sharp. Yes, it’s a social to show you’re personally. In other words, wear a tie that the boss might admire. Or a unique pair of cuff links that might spark a conversation. And don’t drink too much.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How You Dress Is What You Are

2008-04-17T23:01:00.001-07:00

Clothes Confidence

-When Dressing is serious business

THE POWER LOOK
Now that you understand how quality connotes power, how do you actually dress to display it? One basic rule is that the more formally you are dressed, the more powerful you appear. For instance, try blue pinstripe suit, with a white French cuff shirt and a woven silk tie. The shoes would be black cordovan cap-toes, and the belt is black alligator. Finally, just to add a splash of dash, you wear a white pocket square. The overall effect it a man in classic corporate armor who appears invulnerable.

THE POWER PALETTE
Color is another way of denoting power. In suits, dark and formidable is what you are after, so blue, gray, and black remain at the top of the power palette. White is still the most formal dress shirt, but bold patterns and color can often signal that you have clout. Multicolored stripes and big checks are often sign of status, as are bright pastels such as pink, orange, and green. But perhaps no color dominates the power palette these days quite like purple. As regal as it was a thousand years ago, purple has emerged in the last few years as the color to be reckoned with in a shirt and tie.

Dressing for your Goals

HOW TO LOOK MORE

Professional. By now, you should know the basic tenets of looking more professional, but just to be clear, looking more professional means meeting the sartorial standards of your office or industry. No matter the standard, looking more professional most likely means going one step above where you are now: From business casual to appropriate, and from appropriate to corporate.

Trustworthy. Take a page out of the presidential candidates on this one. When they want to look like solid citizens to rest of us solid citizens they go with a blue suit and a white shirt and a red tie. Is it any wonder that we recommended wearing that on your first job interview?

Authoritative. If you want to look like one of the “suits” you have to wear one. Take a look at your superiors: What do they wear? Pinstripes? Double-breasted suits? French cuff shirts? Remember, management always looks a little stiff, a little too proper, so don’t overdo it.

Creative. In creative fields such as publishing, advertising, media dress codes are notoriously relaxed (unless your job requires that you be on camera a lot). So how do you look creative when you are supposed to be creative? Well, black usually does the trick. A black suit, a black sweater with a white T-shirt underneath, black shoes. It shows everyone that you can look professional and still maintain your personality.

Independent. Every man wants to be his own man, and looking independent is a part of that. The key is finding a way to do it without looking unprofessional. Wearing jeans to the office would not be a good approach. But always wearing a cowboy belt might be.
Yes, it’s a bit eccentric but if you can stand a little criticism, soon enough it will become your trademark. Here’s a range of similar ways to express independence Bow Ties, Checked shirts, Turtle necks, monogrammed shirts, cowboy boots, a leather jacket .The point is you can exert your independence in many ways by being dandyish or rugged, bohemian or preppy just as long as you look professional first.

Friendly. If your image is a bit aloof, you need to warm it up. No one wants to work with someone who seems distant (what is he hiding?) or superior to them especially if you’re not. So what will make you look more friendly? You have to know your audience. If you’re a white collar guy trying to make a good impression on a blue collar crowd then a button-down oxford shirt and tie, with the jacket off and the sleeves rolled up will make you seem to be a man of the people if you appear too threatening to women, a bow tie actually declaws most men possibly because there’s almost nothing that’s as asexual as a bow tie. Can you loosen up in your office? Try dressing business appropriate. Wear a sport jacket with a shirt and no tie. You will look approachable. Bring color also work wonders. A bright tie will seem cheerful, whereas something dark can often seem funereal. Oh, and would it kill you to smile every once in a white?

Organized. If your appearance is neat and tidy and that includes your desk and/or office people will assume that you are organized. Even if it means sweeping all that junk into your desk, do it. No one has to know what you look like on the inside. As for clothing,
It wouldn’t hurt to be a little fastidious. Keep your pants creased, your shoes polished, and your shirts pressed. Your ties should always be knotted to the top. And make sure your watch is set five minutes ahead.

Affluent. Sad, but true, some people do judge a look by its cover. If you want to invest in two areas that can make you seem like you’re packing a big portfolio, splurge on a good pair of shoes and a nice watch. The shoes you can’t really skimp on you don’t need to spend $1,000 but $200 is about right but a watch doesn’t need to cost more than $100 to look expensive. These days, Timex, Swatch, Fossil, and other manufacturers put enough bells and whistles on their timepieces that you can fool almost anyone.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Buy Quality Products

2008-02-18T21:38:00.000-08:00

Quality & Quantity:

There are clearly two ways to spend your money: Quantity and Quality.

As you seek a better position career, both are important. Quantity will give you more choices. If for instance, you now have seven suits instead of four, you have more options, which will only make life easier when getting dressed or packing for travel. Quantity allows you to be more versatile in different situations: Whereas you one had only a blue blazer that was too heavy to wear in, say, summer, you will now have two blazers, one for warm weather and one for cold.

Quality, on the hand, has more subtle value. Quality clothing may cost more, but it is also a kind of shorthand for status. Better clothes often send a faster signal to people that you know how to invest in yourself. The right watch, for instance, is a status symbol to many people, and wearing one that looks expensive tells people that you know more than what time it is.
And keep in mind, it only needs to look expensive. A Timex, in other words, may go just as far as a Rolex.

Another advantage of clothing that is well made is that it tends to last longer. The fabrics are more durable, the workmanship is finer, and so repairs are often easier. Think of it this way: Would you rather own an expensive car that was relatively easy to service or one that was medium-priced but a headache to fix?

THE SIGNS OF QUALITY
If the price tag is not a sign of quality and let’s be clear, it isn’t then what is? Quality comes in many forms, and understanding what to look for will help you become a smarter shopper and dresser.

QUALITY CUT
There is no single perfect cut of a suit.
Single-breasted is not better than double. Having two buttons on your jacket is not any less valuable than three.
Rather, the beauty of clothes lies in the eyes of the ultimate beholder: You.
Understanding the most flattering cut of clothing for your body type is critical to seeking out quality.

Clothing can often make up for what nature has not given us. If you don’t have broad shoulders, some padding in your suit jacket may give you a little more heft. If you are shorter than you would like, a lean-cut, vertically striped suit with three buttons will give you the appearance of length.
A little heavy in the middle? Try darker suits without a vent in the rear. The point is, what you are and what you look like.

The next step is understanding what designers and labels are most ideal for you. Some jackets are boxier than others heavier men would want to avoid these. Some are cut narrow in the shoulders, and men with broad chests would be wise to steer clear. Even if you have always coveted owning a certain name-brand designer’s clothes, they may not be well suited for your shape and size, and it would be wiser to spend your money on something that fits better. After all, you don’t wear the label on the outside.

Once you have identified brands that are tailored for your body that is your quality cut. Again, it may not be right for your best friend, but a quality cut only has to suit you.

QUALITY FABRIC

All fabric are not created equal. If they were. You could wear a pair of silk pants to play touch football in and good luck with your friends on that one and a denim tie to the office. But how a fabric looks is often not as important as how it feels. A fabric’s feel or finish will affect not only how good you look in an article of clothing, but also how it feels on. As a rule, heavier fabrics are usually more durable while the quality fabrics feel better and are more fragile.

Suit and jackets. There first suit you wore on an interview was a worsted wool. Nothing wrong with it, of course (in fact it holds a crease quite well), but it’s just not as luxurious feeling or looking as a Super 100 wool (which refers to the fineness of the fiber themselves). Nor does it drape as well or stay unwrinkled quite like a wool crepe

Shirt. The first shirts you owned were broadcloth or oxford cloth, two cottons that feel very nice, but they aren’t nearly as soft as Egyptian cotton or Sea Island cotton, which have a higher thread count per square inch. In general, if you want to spend money on better fabrics, you should think about which fabrics will be close to the body: Shirts, pants, etc.

After all, only going to feel good against your shirt.

Ties. As with wools and cottons, some silks are smoother than others. Such softer silks are said to have a finer “hand,” a fact you can test with either your left or right. A necktie made of a finer silks will often look better tied

Sweaters. As far as sweaters are concerned, Shetland is basic, durable wool, as is lamb’s wool. But neither feels as fine to the hand as merino, cashmere, or silk (all of which are often combined in sweaters). But again, quality does matter even in there categories (all fabrics are not created equal, remember?). It would be wiser to buy an expensive merino V-neck than a more expensive cashmere sweater that was thin and cheap looking. After all, why buy a cashmere sweater that pills and looks raged when you can have a smart-looking merino version for less money that will last longer?

Shoes. Nothing take a beating like your shoes, so investing in quality materials is a risky concept. A supple leather, such as cordovan, will scratch more easily than one that is more rugged. A good suede can be ruined by the rain. And snow. And dirt. Still, because you are investing in quantity and quality, you have more shoes in you closet, so you can be judicious about when you wear the nicer ones.

QUALITY WORKMANSHIP

A man who kicks the tires of a car he’s thinking of buying clearly knows nothing about quality it’s just not where you look. The same is true for clothing about quality that you can know if you’re truly getting your money’s worth. Quality workmanship often does not show. It is often hidden in subtle details such as stitching, lining, and construction. Handcrafter made than those processed on a machine. The stitching and construction are simply more reliable than on something that is mass- produced.
Suits and Jackets. There are many distinguishing signs of quality workmanship to look for in a suit or sport jacket. Here are a few that should make a difference: A jacket internal construction will drape better across the body and will retain its shape longer. You can usually feel the support inside the shoulders and across the back of the jacket, and it might also feel slightly heavier than an un constructed jacket, but not enough to weight you down. A lining in the pockets will protect them better, but the truth is, it’s best never to open your jacket pockets; stuffing them with keys, change, and other effluvia will only cause the jacket to bulge and will distort its shape.
Buttons are another sign of quality. Good jacket buttons are made out of very hard plastic and sometimes even horn. On truly superior jackets, the buttons on a sleeve will actually work, and the buttonhole on a lapel will actually be a hole. Whit trousers, well-made pants will several buttons in the inside of the waistband for suspenders.

Shirt. Stitching is what you’re looking for here. A well-made shirt will have fine stitching down the placket , and across the yoke and shoulders. Look for about 14 stitches per inch on the placket. There will also be attention paid to the collar, perhaps the most critical part of shirt. A well-constructed collar will retain its shape longer. And once again, buttons are the sign of workmanship. Mother-of-pearl buttons are among the best you can get, but a good, hard plastic that won’t crack or chip is the least you should expect.

Ties. A well-made tie will have a lining (usually linen or wool) that extends to the tip of both ends. This will help it retain its shape after many wearing. A good tie should also have hand stitching along the back. Finally, look for a loop of fabric on the wide end to tuck the narrow end into when it’s tied. This will preserve the tie better and keep you from tucking it into the label.

Shoes. Since shoes take the most punishment, great care must be paid to purchasing pairs that won’t fall down on the job. Look for leather with a smooth finish; it will better resist cracking. The soles should be leather and be lightly tanned and flexible. A well-made shoe should not have upper parts that are glued; look for stitching or, if you don’t have an eye for this, ask the salesman.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Shop Smart

2008-02-12T01:23:00.001-08:00

WHAT DO I BUY FIRST?

Primary:

* Suits
* Sport jackets
* Dress shirts
* Dress pants
* Ties

Secondary:

* Chinos
* Sweaters
* Polo shirts
* Shoes
* Socks
* Belts
* Overcoats
* Accessories

SHOP SMART : PANTS

Color:

Dark gray = All business.
Black = Sophisticated, urban.
Tan = Earthy but sophisticated.

Fabric:

For year-round, mid weight wool and wool blends will get you through most seasons. In summertime, a tropical wool or linen is often more comfortable, while winter, a heavier wool or wool flannel will keep you better insulated.

Style:

Again, the big decision here is whether to go with pleated or flat-front pants. Each is appropriate, but some larger men may find pleated trousers more roomy, although flat-front is more slimming. Pleated pants should be cuffed (1 ½”) whereas flat-front trousers often look more streamlined when unruffled. As for the width of the legs, styles vary slightly every season, but not enough so that it’s noticeable. Basically, stay away from the extremes: Too narrow or too baggy. Most important, wear your trousers on your gut, but it only highlights the fact that you have one. It just looks sloppy.

SHOP SMART: THE POLO SHIRT/SWEATER

What it says: Although more casual than a shirt and tie, a nice polo sweater says you know how to work hard and still be comfortable.
How to say it best: A polo shirt works best with a sport jacket, but it’s refined enough to be paired with a suit. Navy and charcoal gray will mix best with your suits, while a maroon or dark green would likely go well with the sport jackets.

SHOP SMART : BRIEFCASES

Soft briefcase: The soft briefcase has replaced the hard case in the last decade.
How to say it best: A soft leather briefcase should also be black, dark brown, or tan with either brass or silver fixtures.
The attaché case: This tradition hand case tells people you’re all business nothing is going to get in the way of your work, even if you have to lock it up.
How to say it best: Black, brown, or tan leather with brass or silver fixtures.

GOALS

Three or four suits, several sport jackets and pants, many shirts and ties, a few pairs of shoes, and handful of power accessories.

Why it matters: Building the proper business wardrobe is critical to success in the workplace as it prepares you for every occasion and signals to everyone that you being.

Guidelines: What do I need? How much do I need?

Quality control: At this point in your professional life, buy the best you can afford for your budget. It will certainly affect the quantity of what you purchase, but in the long run, the quality items will last longer and give you a greater return on the investment.

SHOP SMART: Buy a Business Suit

The suit you buy for your interview will not be the last one you ever buy, but since it may be the first one you own, it has to be versatile: Think of it as the Swiss Army knife in your closet.
To continue reading about mens business suits and how to buy them or order your business suits with us, check out this link.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Man's Business Suit

2007-11-18T21:59:00.000-08:00

“How to Buy a Business Suit”

As you begin to flourish in the workplace, your wardrobe must expand along with you. Always consider the atmosphere of your office, what your position is, and the long-term goals you have as you choose your business attire. And remember that what you see on the following pages needn’t be accumulated immediately or even one year. A wardrobe, like a career, tales time to build.

DO MY CLOTHES MEAN BUSINESS?

Navy Interview Suit + 3 Suits = Work Wardrobe

As with your interview suit, the suits you buy should be the best quality you can afford in classic styles.
Following these guidelines will allow you versatility and will make your budget go further.

Dark gray suit

Just like a navy suit, gray is basic but vital. Everything looks good with gray and everything mixes with it. The fabric should be worsted wool that can be worn nearly all year-round. A two-or three-button style is best there button is just as traditional and can often be more slimming, either with a single rear vent or without.

The world, of course, is not black and white, it’s gray and with good reason. It’s elegant and formal. A man in gray is serious and unassailable. The tailoring on this suit should be the same as with the navy suit .Make sure the trousers are cuffed, and if they have little buttons on inside of the waist, they’re for suspenders.

Light Gray Suit

For a third suit, light gray is a smart option. It is just as versatile as its darker cousin, and can be worn further into the summer months. A khaki suit is an alternative for this as well.

Opt for some variation between your gray suits. For instance, if the dark one is two-button, make this one there.

Khaki Poplin Suit

A warm weather essential for any man, the khaki suit is like navy for the summer. Split this suit in half when on the road and you have a pair of khaki pants or a khaki pants or a khaki jacket.
The khaki suit is slightly more casual than darker suits, Dressy and polished poplin is also lightweight, which makes it ideal for summer. Because the fabric is so lightweight, be sure the suit is pressed (or at least steamed) often. Otherwise, you can look like an unmade bed.

Bullet proof:

The most formal sport jacket there is, a blazer is appropriate for any work environment and arguably the hardest-working item in your closet. A blazer with a little bit of structure in the shoulders and lining will fit more like a suit jacket than a more casual coat. Traditionally, the blazer has gold buttons (it began as a nautical uniform), but almost any store will offer dark navy buttons as well, or replace them free of charge. Go for this option.

The Blue Blazer

The blue blazer is like the remote control: Quite simply, man cannot live without one. Perfect for the office, business lunch’s travel, and weekends, a blazer can dress you up and take you anywhere.
As with your suits, try to get a wool blazer that’s enough for summer and heavy enough for winter.
Two-button single-breasted is best but three-button is perfectly acceptable.

COLLAR
The collar of a jacket or suit should be lined with wool. This will help it lie flat against the neck and shoulders.

BUTTONS
Look for quality stitching around the buttons, meaning the thread is wrapped around itself many times to anchor them.

POCKETS
The pockets should be lined with rayon or cotton. This will help the jacket maintain its shape better. To ensure this even more, don’t open your jacket pockets.

Sport Jackets

When a suit isn’t called for, a sport jacket is. While not as dressy, it is certainly appropriate for the workplace. Indeed as dress codes for the workplace have relaxed over the years, the sport jacket has become not only acceptable, but necessary; it provides flexibility and credibility. Paired with nice trousers and a shirt and tie and sometimes without one, the sport jacket still looks extremely polished.

TESTING PATTERNS

Many patterned jackets trace their origin to the hunting and fishing pastimes of Scotland, which explains the names of those sporting-inspired designs: Hounds tooth, herringbone, etc. Sport jackets provide an excellent opportunity to get some color, particularly earth tones, into your wardrobe. Since the patterns are often more casual looking, pay more attention to the therefore preferable.

HERRINGBONE
An excellent way to begin patterns because it’s tweedy without being stuffy. The chevron design comes in large and small, but smaller is subtler, and therefore preferable.

HOUNDS TOOTH
Like herringbone, hounds tooth comes in large and small variations and, again, smaller is better. Black-and-white is classic, but shades of brown are no less traditional.

CHECK
Whereas hounds tooth is more ragged (but not ragged-looking), the square check is neater and usually more bold.

PLAID
In a suit, plaid sometimes knows as a prince of Wales plaid can be formal, but in a sport jacket its well, sportier. Here, variations of brown are more versatile than black-and-white.

TWEED
Whether flecked or heathered, simple tweed adds color and texture to your wardrobe. And some of the other patterns, a tweed is more seasonal, ideal for cold weather.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Custom Clothing For The Corporate Work Place

2007-09-20T05:03:00.000-07:00

It is awfully important to know what is and what is not your business. - GERTRUDE STEIN

I’m a self-made man, but I think if I had to go it over again, I’d call in someone else. - ROLAND YOUNG, Actor

It’s always better to be looked over than overlooked. - MAE WEST

Fourteen voice-mail messages after lunch. Thirty-two-mails to return. A PowerPoint presentation coming up in there weeks. There are enough pressures in the office these days without having to worry about what you wear every day. If you can maximize your wardrobe’s potential and learn the principles of smart dressing, you will remove (or at least reduce) a potential headache the night before an important meeting or lunch and can ease your mind so that you walk in fully prepared.

WORK EMERGENCY KIT: DESK
We all grew up with “be prepared” as a mail mantra. In adolescence we carried our “prepared” in our wallets and nowadays the less exciting jumper cables in the car. Being prepared is also good at work, especially since you never want to be unprepared for fate. So if you get a chance to shine be sure your shoes do, too. Always keep the following quick saves in your desk drawer.
- Clean white shirt pressed and wrapped from the cleaners
- A solid or tonal dark tie
- Deodorant
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- A comb
- Disposable quick wipe shoe buffer
- Spare set of shoelaces
- Spare set of collar stays
- Sewing kit from a hotel or travel kit
- Nail clippers
- Eye drops
- Disposable razor and small travel shave foam

THE TIMES ARE CHANGING ARE YOU?
In the mid-90s, as the economy grew exponentially, many established companies embraced the notion of casual Fridays and some firms even abolished dress codes codes altogether. When you’re making that much money, who really cares what your employees are wearing to work?But as the economy started to turn, it was no longer acceptable to be so laid-black about one’s appearance. And when people began to lose their jobs, looking serious about work became a priority again. Consequently, people are showing up early, working late, and finding safety behind a jacket and tie. Or didn’t you get that memo?

WHO GOT THE MEMO?
LOOK AROUNDHas the office dress code changed in the last few months? Have you even noticed? Look around. Has your boss stopped wearing khakis to work? Has a bohemian colleague shaved and cut his shorter? Are you the only one wearing jeans?Chances are, your colleagues have been dressing up again for work, and if you haven’t been, now is the time to dress smarter.

Now that you’ve been on the job for a while, it may be time to evaluate your career and your wardrobe: Are they giving you want? Or need?

ASSESS: ARE YOU WHERE YOU WANT TO BE?
Is your career going the way you thought it would? Are you doing the kinds of things that challenge you and make you happy? Have you stopped setting your alarm in the morning? If things are going well, where do you want to be five or ten years from now and will it take to get there?

Now look at you want to be, what is holding you back? Did you set unrealistic goals and expectations for yourself? Are you too hard on yourself? Too easy? Have friends been passing you by? Getting promotions? Taking on greater responsibilities? Is money as important as you thought it was? Is it more important than you care to admit? Is your wardrobe too junior now that you are more senior?

DEJUNK: WHAT IS HOLDING YOU BACK?
If you’re not where you want to be, what is holding you back? Did you set unrealistic goals and expectations for yourself? Are you too hard on yourself? Too easy? Have friends been passing you by? Getting promotions? Taking on greater responsibilities? Is money as important as you thought it was? Is it more important than you care to admit? Is your wardrobe too junior now that you are more senior?

RENEW: COMMIT TO THE GOALS YOU’VE MADE
Once you’ve determined what’s holding you back, it’s time to figure out what you want to accomplish next and how to get there. Find a mentor: Someone who can counsel you about your career and shoot straight without departments in your company or other companies altogether.Now take a look at your closet. Do you look like the people you admire professionally? Are they dressing with a certain authority that you respond to? Perhaps it’s time to look into another clothing investment to take your career to the next level.

BUILDING A CAREER WARDROBE
The reality is, a man could wear the same suit there times a week and on one would notice. A blue suit, if pressed or steamed properly, would look new every day if you paired it with the right shirts and ties, and occasionally threw in a sweater or two. By mixing up what you wear a striped shirt one day, then blue, then white, then a bold color you can stretch your limited wardrobe by buying suits of higher quality and being creative with the combinations. Although you may lack in quantity, you can now buy a finer suit that will last longer and follow you up the corporate ladder.

DON’T TAKE FRIDAYS OFF
Even if your office believes in casual Fridays, it doesn’t mean you have to. There’s no actual rule that says you have to look casual. And if you’re looking for a promotion or a raise, why risk looking laid-back on the one day that your boss may take notice of you? Think of yourself like a team looking to make the play-offs-you can’t let down in the stretch. So go the extra step to look your best when you want to move up. You never know who’s paying attention.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Different Looks For Different Times.

2007-09-20T01:55:00.000-07:00

Professional. By now, you should know the basic tenets of looking more professional, but just to be clear, looking more professional means meeting the sartorial standards of your office or industry. No matter the standard, looking more professional most likely means going one step above where you are now: From business casual to appropriate, and from appropriate to corporate.

Authoritative. If you want to look like one of the “suits” you have to wear one. Take a look at your superiors: What do they wear? Pinstripes? Double-breasted suits? French cuff shirts? Remember, management always looks a little stiff, a little too proper, so don’t overdo it.

Creative. In creative fields such as publishing, media dress codes are notoriously relaxed . So how do you look creative when you are supposed to be creative? Well, black usually does the trick. A black suit, a black sweater with a white T-shirt underneath, black shoes. It shows everyone that you can look professional and still maintain your personality.

Independent. Every man wants to be his own man, and looking independent is a part of that. The key is finding a way to do it without looking unprofessional. Wearing jeans to the office would not be a good approach. But always wearing a cowboy belt might be. Yes, it’s a become your trademark. Here’s a range of similar ways to express independence in many ways by being dandyish or rugged, bohemian or preppy just as long as you look professional first.

Friendly. If your image is a bit aloof, you need to warm it up. No one wants to work with someone who seems distant or superior to them especially if you’re not. So what will make you look more friendly? You have to know your audience. If you’re a white then a button-down oxford shirt and tie, with the jacket off and the appear too threatening to women, a bow tie actually declaws most men possibly because there’s almost nothing that’s as asexual as a bow tie. Can you loosen up in your office? Try dressing business appropriate. Wear a sport jacket with a shirt and no tie. You will look approachable. Bring color also work wonders. A bright tie will seem cheerful, whereas something dark can often seem funereal. Oh, and would it kill you to smile every once in a white?

Organized. If your appearance is neat and tidy and that includes your desk and/or office people will assume that you are organized. Even if it means sweeping all that junk into your desk, do it. No one has to know what you look like on the inside. As for clothing, your shoes polished, and your shirts pressed. Your ties should always be knotted to the top. And make sure your watch is set five minutes ahead.

Affluent. Sad, but true, some people do judge a look by its cover. If you want to invest in two areas that can make you seem like you’re packing a big portfolio, splurge on a good pair of shoes and a nice watch. The shoes you can’t really skimp on you don’t need to spend $1,000 but $200 is about right but a watch doesn’t need to cost more than $100 to look expensive. These days, Timex, Swatch, Fossil, and other manufacturers put enough bells and whistles on their timepieces that you can fool almost anyone

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Custom Made Business Suits And Shirts

2007-09-19T23:07:00.000-07:00

“If I can be one step ahead because of the clothes I wear, then it’s worth it!”

CRAIG POGSON - Maitre d’ at 0rsay

Your closet will mostly full of non - work clothes at the early point in your career, which means that organizing what you wear to the office will be relatively simple. Here is a list of the minimum you should have in your work wardrobe as well as the accessories you will need to maintain your clothes properly:

The INTERVIEW WARDROBE
1 suit
3 shirt
3 ties
1 pair of shoes
1 watch
1 portfolio
Some socks/underwear

The CLOSET TOOLS
- Full-length mirror
- Shoe trees- Good hangers
- Lint remover- Iron/ironing board
- Steamer

CLOTHES CHECK
- Aviod dry-cleaning your clothes too often as it can be hard on fabrics. - Instead of dry-cleaning wrinkled suits, try steaming then .
- Hang up your suit or sport jacket every night, and place shoe trees in your shoes when you take them off.
- Remove clothes from dry-cleaning bags when you get them home. They tend to yellow whites and hold in moisture.

WHAT SUITS YOU?
Question -
I recently landed a management position similar to my job, but in my previous job I wore a suit only when clients cams to the office. In my new job the only casual days are Fridays. My two suits aren’t going to cut I can’t afford to buy one for every day. Is there a simple answer or do I just buy lots of ties?

Answer
- A navy and gray suit will take you far, so make the gray suit your next purchase. Spend a little more on this and it will becomes your bulletproof outfit. Also, add a blazer or sport coat in a small dark pattern to look pulled together on casual Fridays. Spend carefully on some good cotton shirts and silk ties and you can make it seem as if your wardrobe is endless. Remember, the suit is just the frame, the shirt and tie are the picture.

Work Wardrobe
Stuff comes out of work. Paychecks, promotions, and at one time, even security. But that has disappeared. The only security left is your ability to do well, take care of yourself, and present a clear, distinct message of your ability and worth. No matter your skill set, it is essential that you not worry about be taking care of the silent dialogue that happens whether you’re walking down a hallway in your office, seeing a customer, or sitting in a meeting. In this section, options are presented for you to build a wardrobe that will save you money and send an unmistakable message of your value and competence (if you’re not competent and don’t have value your clothes won’t help).

Dress Like You Mean Business

How you dress in an interview is one thing, but what you wear to work every day once have the position is quite another and far more complicated. The former involves looking the part and instantly communicating to your potential employers that you belong. But once you have the job, it is important to maintain appearances and standards. Obviously, your performance at work will dressing smart is essential for succeeding in the workplace.

MEN OF RESPECT
Dressing appropriately in the office is a respect. It tells your coworkers and superiors that you are ready for business every single day. And the truth is, it does not take that much effort to dress properly for the office. In fact, that’s the point: If you can’t take the time to care about your appearance, than you are telling everyone that perhaps you aren’t taking proper care of your professional responsibilities, either.This is the true lesson behind dressing smart in the office: You are ultimately showing respect for yourself. And if you do that, other will as well.

Did you know?
... Men who wore white shirts wear thought to be more competent and honest…Dress for Success. It is thought that men in white shirts are more intelligent, honest, successful and powerful than men wearing any other color.

In Your Work Wardrobe

-Ensure Image Control
Every industry has different standards, every company within an industry has different standards, and often there divisions within the same company that have different standards than divisions. That said, there are some basic principles to follow dressing for work, and they will always apply:

- Be appropriate. An office or industry is like a club. Look like you’re a member, not guest.

- Be professional. Whether your code is corporate or casual, the clothes you wear should always reflect your seriousness about business. This will give you a quiet confidence that you can handle any task.

- Be comfortable. You cannot dress like someone you’re not. If you feel comfortable only in blue suits, then wear them. Dress for your personality and body type. But remember, comfortable does not mean sloppy.

- Be strategic. Clothes can set you apart. Ask yourself what your goals are and then dress accordingly. Are you looking for a promotion? Try wearing bolder ties so you stand out more. Is your profile too high and you just want to be part of the team? Start dressing more like the other players. Do you want the boss to notice you more? Pay attention to how he dresses, mimic him (within your budget, of course), and let him compliment you on your good taste.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Tools Of The Trade

2007-09-19T22:53:00.000-07:00

BRIEFCASE VS.KNAPSCK
Alas, you stopped carrying a Scooby-Doo lunch box at one point in your life you have stopped, haven’t you?, and now it’s time to abandon the knapsack in favor of a briefcase. Infinitely more stylish and far more grow-up, a briefcase is a sign that you are ready to be serious about your career. Choose one in black or brow leather and make sure there’s enough room to grow but not bulge. Be sure there is reinforced stitching on stress points, not too many pockets , and a light interior color easier to spot lost objects.

THE WRITE STUFF
Seeing as how mighty the pen is it makes sense to carry one with some impact. You never know when you’ll be called on to hand it over to someone more senior or sign something important in public. Get yourself a nice metal pen with a hard point as opposed to a felt tip and be quick on the draw when someone in authority asks for one.

MONEY CLIP
Want something lighter than a wallet? Consider a money clip made of brass or silver. Assuming you don’t cram every receipt, photo, and credit card you own in there and now is the time to De junk it’s a streamlined way to go.

WHAT’S ON YOUR AGENDA
A smart businessman keeps his appointments and is always on time. The first step to doing that is maintaining an agenda. Whether it’s a small leather notebook with and addresses or a high-tech PDA, a well-maintained agenda will bail you out time and again.

MONEY MATTERS
Anything that someone in the workplace might see affects your appearance and that includes your wallet. After all, you might have to pay for a business lunch some day and you can’t be pulling out that old Velcro number from seventh grade. So, as with belts and briefcases, stay with black or brown leather. Also, try keeping your wallet in your jacket’s breast pocket it doesn’t get bent out of shape.

CLOSET WORK WARDROBE
Your refrigerator is probably stocked, but is your closet? Take a moment to consider what you need, and whether what you have is meeting your career goals. Below is a checklist for the first year on the job and the fifth. It’s just a guideline, but if you follow it, you should be set for years to come. Your goals: To create a flexible work wardrobe so that: 1. Your never have to wear the same outfit twice in one week, and 2. You will look appropriate in any work environment.

FIRST-YEAR CHECKLIST
2 or 3 suits1 or 2 sport jackets7-10 dress shirts3 or 4 pairs of pants2 pairs of shoes5-7 ties1 briefcase

FIVE YEARS AND COUNTING
5-8 suits4 or 5 sport jackets6-8 pairs of shoes5 pairs of shoes15-20 ties3 sweatersYour closet should now be filled with all of the clothes you need to get ahead in the workplace: Enough suits, shirts, ties, pants, shoes, and a few power accessories to get you through each season, all types of weather, and every occasion. And, because you purchased wisely, many of these clothes will last you for years to come.

WHAT SUIT YOU?
Dear jeff and Kim,I was just promoted to VP of my division, and travel a lot between Seattle and LA. I bought a black suits, but I’m not sure what to wear with it. I have a gray shirt and dark tie but I feel my lace-up oxfords aren’t right. I sometimes think I look like I’m going to a funeral.-Paint It BlackDear Paint It Black,Once fashion-forward, the black suit has become mainstream a new classic. If you don’t feel right in your lace-ups then get a good pair of loafers. A black suit looks great with a French blue shirt and a dark tie, pattern or solid. A good suit is also great for after-work events with an open dress shirt, as well as occasions that are black tie optional. Translation: Don’t wear a tux unless you are the waiter. A black suit, white shirt, and a silver or dark tie create an evening outfit without the hoopla of a tuxedo.-jeff and Kim

POWER WARDROBE
It was in Wall Street that Michael Douglas, as Gordon Gekko, got to rave “Greed works! Greed will save the USA!” it is safe to say that the character had a firm grasp on power as many know it. And he had the clothes to prove it. What is it that gives clothes an aura of power? Part of it is the cultural association to things such as movies some of it is the ability to afford from the taste and ability to dress in a timeless style that speaks of the individual. You may wear what you see in the movies, or a shirt a boss wears, or a suit of a business leader, but if it isn’t you, then you’re only wearing a costume doing business in drag. The key is to slowly learn what makes you feel good and confident. With that you begin to create a wardrobe of personal style. Your uniform of self.

DRESSING TO GET AHEAD
After several years on the job, you have like been moving up or else you’re ready to move out. If you’ve been racking up promotions, your wardrobe of the last few years needs to be improved on. It’s not that it’s no longer appropriate for work look at all the successful junior people in the office, they’re dressing like you now, aren’t they? It’s just that you now need to dress with authority. You need to have a wardrobe with some power.To get where you want to go takes a lot of hard work, and your wardrobe has been a part of your climb up the ladder. Now, more than ever, as you seek a better position , this aphorism is essential: Dress for the job you want to have, not for the one you already have. In other words, if you’re still dressing like a bit player, no one will ever see you as the leading man.Of course, the mailroom clerk who dresses like a managing director will never get the job he seeks simply because he wears the right jacket and tie, but it might cause someone to think he’s capable of that job some day. By the same token, if you’re the managing director who dresses like a mailroom clerk, you are, perhaps, building a glass ceiling over your head.Keep in mind, however, that you should dress one level above don’t try skipping three or four. Dressing for the next job only works if you don’t upstage your superiors. They don’t want you dressing better than they do.

CONSISTENCY-AVOIDING MIXED SIGNALS
Your employees look to you for guidance. If you dress commandingly every day, you will appear confident and secure, like the kind of man who has everything under control. Then, if you dress down on Fridays, you may be sending the message that everyone can relax a bit on that day.Similarly, if you aspire to rising in the ranks, be aware that your big break could come at any moment, so dress accordingly.

LOOKING LIKE A MILLION-WITHOUT MAKING A MILLION
One of the many perks of climbing the ladder is greater financial security. And as you earn money, you will find that you will likely spend more. Improving certain aspects of like a better car, a new house, nicer vacations is one of the many rewards of success. So, too, must you make a new investment in your wardrobe.Becoming more successful, however, doesn’t require that you wear $2,000 suits unless of course if you can afford them and appreciate them but it doesn’t really allow for $200 suit anymore, either. What you need to learn now is how to invest in quality.

POCKET SQUARES VS. HANDKERCHIEFS
The pocket square a piece of colored silk kept in your jacket breast pocket comes in and out style and is, at best tricky. Never match your tie color, but keep it the same hue.A fine linen handkerchief folded or stuffed in your pocket is much safer. Below are two simple methods of handkerchief control.

THE TRAIANGLE FOLD
1. Fold the linen in quarters.
2. Fold the sides into the center.
3. Bend the bottom half backward and fold in half.
4. Place in pocket.The Puffed Fold. Grab the center of the handkerchief and let it fall upside down, smooth with the hand, gathering most of the material like a flower. Fold the center end under, and stuff neatly into pocket.

WRIST SHOTS
A double cuff that turns back and is usually fastened with a cuff link, the French cuff makes an elegant statement at the wrist. If you purchase a shirt with a contrasting collar and cuffs, the cuffs should always be French cuffs.

We remain with Best Regaards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Cracking The Dress Codes of Business

2007-02-26T20:34:00.001-08:00

Cracking The Dress Codes Of Business

DRESS CODES OF BUSINESS

Company dress codes are not well defined and are rarely written down. They are mostly gleaned by observing: “What is there basis dress code that every office usually falls into, as one personal dress code. Follow these guidelines and you will be safe.

CORPORATE DRESS CODE

The most formal standard of dress there is, the corporate dress code means suits with shirts, usually white and ties. This the dress code of law firms and investment banks. In the past few years, the corporate dress code has eased somewhat, but it is recently coming black strong. Once again, the “suits” upstairs are wearing suits.

BUSINESS CASUAL DRESS CODE

If every day were casual Friday, this is the dress code that would apply. In the business casual world, not only is a suit not necessary, but a jacket may not even be required. But a casual dress code does not mean that you can let it all hang out. In fact, neatness may count more than ever in this environment. If you wear khakis and a white oxford shirt to work most days, make sure they’re clean and pressed. Polish your shoes and never wear sneakers to the office. Wear sweaters that fit well and not ones that are baggy, wrinkled, or have holes in them. A sense of professionalism must be maintained at all times.

THE EVOLUTION OF BUSINESS APPROPRIATE

Business has often been cast as a Darwinian struggle, and the development of business appropriate dress in the workplace is an excellent example of the phenomena. Over the past 20 year the pendulum of corporate dress has swung from one extreme to the other: Starting with the buttoned-up world of pinstripes and power ties to the worn down world of faded jeans and T-shirts. CEOs of powerful industries established both trends. In the go-go days of the Wall Street-tech bubble it became practically mandatory to dress casually to establish your credentials.Then the bubble burst, and as the economy changed so did the dress landscape. A new dress code evolved, not from the top down but instead lead by the people on the job. Without a memo in sight, people stared to upgrade their look jacket with nice dress shirts and slacks, and even an occasional tie. There’s tacit evolutionary understanding that as the times get tougher, the smart species survives by adapting to the environment.And so business appropriate has emerged as midpoint between business casual and corporate dress codes. Silicon Valley meets the man in the gray flannel suit, and business appropriate is the offspring.

BUSINESS APPROPRIATE AND BUSINESS APPROPRIATE CASUAL DRESS CODE

This dress code is somewhere between corporate and casual, and can, in some ways, be the most difficult to navigate. The business appropriate dress code requires that you have a secure sense of what is appropriate for your office and industry. A suit is no longer mandatory, but if you wear one perhaps you don’t put on a tie with a dress shirt. A sport jacket and trousers with a dress shirt would also be an acceptable alternative. In the business appropriate world, one can even opt to wear a nice polo shirt or sweater with a sport jacket. The idea is that you can allow yourself some comfort, but you must always look polished and professional.
The Evolution of Dress Codes
Corporate
SUIT
Mandatory
SHIRT AND TIE
Mandatory
The suit and tie ensemble is a constant. A classic of American business, it has grow from a stiff authoritative structure to a more comfortable expression of business. But don’t be confused. It is still about joining the club
Casual
JACKET: WITH TEE
Mandatory
WITH SHIRT OR SWEATER
Optional
JEANS
Only okay if you’re the boss or the office is homeThe days of “whatever, I’m too busy” or “too creative to bother about what I’m wearing” are over. Casual means pulled together, nothing faded or ragged. In many ways it’s difficult to pull off without appearing to be trapped at summer camp.
Business Appropriate
SHIRT
Mandatory
TIE
Optional
JACKET
Mandatory
SUIT
Preferred
Rapidly becoming the “new stander,” it is more about dressing the context of the day or occasion to tie or not to tie is the question. But there is a covert understanding that a jacket is a necessity.
Business Appropriate Casual
SHIRT OR SWEATER
Mandatory
JACKET
Not required but preferred
“Casual” under this dress code means understanding that a more relaxed look is not an excuse to look like you came into work during the weekend. A good rule of thumb is if you’re called in to see CEO you won’t need to make excuses about being casual.

Get Job
YOUR DRESS CODE
Regardless of the dress code employed by your office or industry, over time you will begin to develop your own sense of style and perhaps even some sartorial trademarks. Do you only wear ties with polka dots on them? Are you the kind of man who insists on cowboy boots with a suit? Does everyone notice your cuff links? Whatever your personal dress code is, you must, of course, still look professional. And as you climb the corporate ladder, it will become easier to express your personality through your clothes. After all, who will tell the boss he shouldn’t wear pink checked shirts?

LERNING INDUSTRY DRESS CODES

Just as offices have dress codes, too, do industries. And even if your office does not adherer to the industry standard, when you go for an interview or meeting at another office, the best preparation is to research what that company’s policy is. Call someone in the human resources department and get a sense of what the guidelines are. In general, industry dress codes have become more relaxed, but a safe rule would be to maintain a high level of dress whenever you are uncertain. Going to a law office? Wear a suit and tie. Meeting people at an advertising agency? Business appropriate would not be inappropriate. Feeling at ease with the way you are dresses will alleviate some of the pressures that you may be feeling about the job itself.

DRESS CODE EXCEPTIONS

Even if you understand your office industry dress code perfectly, there will still be exception to the rules. For instance, you work in a corporate dress code office, but there is an off-site workshop at a local hotel and you have been told you can dress down. The smart move would be to dress business appropriate. Or perhaps you work in a business appropriate office but you are meeting clients for lunch who are business casual. Simple solution: Remove your tie. No matter what the situation is you should always be prepared to adapt your wardrobe and get down to business.

Due Diligence
SHOE TREE
nother smart investment aid more consistent than your friends’ stock tips shoe trees are cedar molds that fit inside your shoes. They help dry out the sweat of the day, keep the leather from sinking and cracking, and keep your shoes odor-free and new looking.

NO EXCEPRION

Want to be sure to create a bad impression in whatever dress code your employer prescribes, or blow your job interview? It’s simple: Never polish your shoes, let the heels get worn and the leather cracked. If however, you would rather make a good impression or land that new job, some preventive maintenance can a long way.

SHINER
Either go to pro or spend some time each weekend 15 minutes per pair polishing your shoes 1. Take a rag that’s moist and swirl good wax polish on your shoe in a circular motion. 2. Keep up this motion as the previous shine disappears and is replaced with a deeper shine. 3. Then use another rag and buff to the shine level you prefer. Buy an edge dressing, which is simply a dye to paint the leather edges. Every six months have your shoe repairman check the soles-good for shoes, good for your career.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Wardrobes That Win In The New Workplace

2007-02-05T21:37:00.000-08:00

“It is possible through the skillful manipulation of dress in any particular situation to evoke a favorable response to your positioning and your needs.”JOHN T. MOLLOY - New Dress for Success“The more you know, the less you need.”AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINAL SAYINGIf you’re So Smart, Why Do You Dress So Stupid?-Clothes & Career“Let us be thankful for the fools; but for them the rest of us could not succeed.”MARK TWAINInterview WardrobeSeconds..tick, tick, tick, tick…Mission Impossible seconds are counting down as the HR manager stretches out a hand and BANG! You are registered, judged, and mentally filed away. So what’s on that file? Have you set up the groundwork for a smooth interview and job offer, or a wary, “we’ll see what’s here?” This section is about putting together the most winning combination of visual reinforcements and clues, so you can make a positive impression on your interviewer. Button line you’re reading this because you want a job. Help yourself get that job. Read on.DRESSING THE PARTIn 1912, the New York Highlanders took the baseball field in what would become the most famous uniform in sport history: Pinstripes. By the 1930s, the pattern on their uniform had come to define the first power look for men. As orderly as the lines on a banker’s ledger, the pinstripe suit signified a man’s stature in the corporate world. Meanwhile, the New York Yankees had become the most dominant team in the major leagues, and their pinstripes had already taken on a mystique: Did Yankees owner Col. Jacob Ruppert really insist on the uniforms just to make Babe Ruth look slimmer? Or perhaps the message was even simpler: In pinstripes, the Yankees wear all business.Today, whether it’s baseball or banking, how a man dresses can affect not only his performance, but also his career itself. If you don’t present yourself properly on a job interview, you may not get in the door. Once inside, you need to look the part to stay there and move up. And eventually, if you want to move high up or out, you need to be aware of the messages you are sending others.THE POWER OF IMAGEConsider the paintings of the Impressionist Georges Seurat: From far away, they are seemingly of a idyllic Sunday afternoon by the lake or a day at the Eiffel Tower. But move closer and you see that Seurat’s images are, in fact, tiny dots of color. His pointillist style is actually nothing more than perfectly positioned brush strokes, which, when viewed as a whole, produce the big picture.Dressing smart requires the same thinking: How you put all of the elements of you wardrobe together can either create an image that is visually pleasing or something that’s big mess. In order to break down the elements of your appearance dot by dot. Does your suit frame your body well? Is that tie too distracting? Are your shoes tripping people up? By examining each aspect of your wardrobe you can develop the style that best suits who you are and eventually use that style to set yourself apart.

STYLE AND SUBSTANCEHow a man dresses and looks is obviously important, but what defines his style? The people we often consider the best dressed do not typically wear clothing we remember. There is not usually one item that stands out on such a man, he merely seems to put everything together well and carries himself with great sophistication. He is well groomed; his hair, nails, and general appearance seen clean and polished .His style is often defined by confidence, which some are born with and other acquire over time. It is a confidence not simply in what he is wearing, but rather in who he is. In other words, style without substance is meaningless. A great shirt and tie might help you get a job, but they will never do the work for you. Without the talent and drive to back up the promise of your appearance, you are merely an empty suit.THE TREND GAMEFashion is a scary word for men and for good reason. It is mostly concerned with trends wearing the clothes that will be appropriate for one season, and perhaps not even that long. The world of fashion is obsessed with name-brand designers and labels that will impress a small section of society. There is nothing wrong with wanting to be fashionable, of course. But as with the things in life, following Trends is best enjoyed in moderation: A bold shirt, a graphic tie, an eye-catching pair of cuff links.Style, on the other hand, is timeless. A blue blazer, gray flannels, loafers, these items considered classics for a reason: They will never go out style and will never be inappropriate. When building a wardrobe for work, it is always better to err on the side of classic. After all, if you intend to be on the job for several years, shouldn’t you expect the same of your clothing?DRESSING SMART FOR SUCCESSIn 1975, John T. Molloy published his now classic book, Dress for Success. At the time, there was nothing like it to guide a man through the principles of proper attire in the workplace, and his sartorial homilies taught a generation how to “dress like a million so you can make a million.” Molloy’s philosophy was relatively simple: Clothing affects business performance and influences the way superiors and peers view you. And, playing to our most basic “keeping up with the Joneses” mentality, Molloy argues that even if you don’t want to dress to get ahead, the next guy will.Over the years, much of Molly’s advice still held true, but the workplace changed dramatically in the past quarter century. Molloy never foresaw the advent of casual Fridays and corporate policies that supposed to dress for a meeting with 20-something dot-com millionaires who wear wearing ripped jeans and T-shirts?Today, however, the economy has shifted yet again, and the days of casual dressing in the office have waned. As corporate pants and suits and ties. Work has once again become business as usual, but what does business look like?

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Time To Suit Up For Business

2006-12-25T21:07:00.000-08:00

Time To Suit Up For Business
Watch out, “Casual Friday!” “Dress-Up Thursday” is coming to town and he means business! Now that the corporate casual scene has completely enveloped the American tailored clothing market, a backlash is in the making. With billions of dollars in retail sales at stake and a continuing degeneration in corporate American values at risk, this is no longer a subject to be joked about.

"... a casual business environment is a dangerous recipe."

In an effort “to bring sartorial splendor, productivity and decorum back to the office.” A group of American clothiers banded together to roll out a “Dress-Up Thursday” campaign. I recently attended the New York Clothing Tailors & Designers Association AGM with CTDA President Anthony Gilberto. The dinner provided a forum for a number of speakers to discuss the concept of “Dress-Up Thursday.” Their mission statement: “to assist America in re-conceptualizing the importance of appropriate business attire in the workplace and its attendant benefits.” At a glance, this might seem like a dogmatic non-acceptance of the realities of our modern casual environment, but this group has produced some interesting arguments to support their philosophy.

We live in the communications age where the market is booming and people can make a great living from a business run from a remote satellite station somewhere near Napa Valley. It is hard to see why people need to conduct business dressed up in a suit and tie any more. According to Anthony Gilberto, businessmen are looking for sports coasts, separates and business casual solutions like never before. Many of Gilberto’s customers have sons making six-figure incomes who have never worn a suit to work in their life. I concluded that this might just be the way of the future. Gilberto suggests that there are several flaws to this way of thinking and more than enough reasons to consider a casual business environment a dangerous recipe.

Dr. Jeffrey L. Magee, a research psychologist has surveyed over 500 firms. The conclusion from his studies was that, “continually relaxed dress leads to relaxed manners, relaxed morals and replaced productivity.” His specific findings revealed that casual dress policies resulted in:

* A decrease in productivity and overall quality of work.
* An increase in litigation.
* A decrease in commitment and company loyalty.
* An increase in tardiness.
* A decrease in ethical behavior.

Further to this, Jackson-Lewis, one of America’s largest law firms specializing in employment issues, recently surveyed 1,000 clients who had adopted casual dress policies (The Wall Street Journal, February 15). This survey discovered that:

* 44% of respondents noted an increase in absenteeism and tardiness.
* 30% noted an increase in flirtatious behavior.

The fact remains that casual business dress results in casual business. In a booming economy, this is no big deal. But given a more competitive environment when the sale of two comparatively homogeneous products comes down to the sales presentation, who will get the business? My bet is it won’t be the sales representative who’s dressed for a day on the golf course!

Casual dressing, when not implemented correctly, results in a workplace environment neither promoting nor encouraging more productivity. Casual dressing has been responsible for an ambiguous “sloppy casual” or “weekend casual” which has seen “Executives” rambling into work wearing jeans, sweatshirts, sneakers and t-shirts.

I really have to agree with Anthony Gilberto: this is not the way of the future. Let’s get back to business!

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Dress For Interview Success

2006-10-15T21:00:00.000-07:00

While the college campus may be the perfect forum in which to exhibit your flair for the latest in fashion style, the interview is not the place to do so. With very few unusual exceptions (my apologies to Apple Computer), sandals and sweatshirts are out. Oxfords and business suits are still in. I don't like a necktie (noose?) any better than the next person, but it is still a fact of life in interviewing. Even though many companies have relaxed the internal company dress code, interviews still follow the conservative standard. Don't buck the trend.

Unfortunately, most college grads are woefully underprepared with proper interview dress. They feel they can "get by" with what is already in their wardrobe. Usually not. Dress for the world outside college is quite different from the campus scene. Remember that stylish is not conservative. You should be doing the talking, not your clothes.

This is not to say that you need to go out and buy a whole new wardrobe. Go for quality over quantity. One or two well-chosen business suits will serve you all the way to the first day on the job and beyond. Then, when you are making some money (and have a chance to see what the standard "uniform" is for the company), you can begin to round out your wardrobe. For now, no one will fault you for wearing the same sharp outfit each time you interview. If you desire some variety within a limited budget, you might consider varying your shirt/blouse/tie/accessories as a simple way to change your look without breaking your wallet.

For those of you who need a quick review of the basics, follow these guidelines for successful interview dress:

Men and Women
* Conservative two-piece business suit (solid dark blue or grey is best)
* Conservative long-sleeved shirt/blouse (white is best, pastel is next best)

* Clean, polished conservative shoes
* Well-groomed hairstyle
* Clean, trimmed fingernails
* Minimal cologne or perfume
* Empty pockets--no bulges or tinkling coins
* No gum, candy or cigarettes
* Light briefcase or portfolio case
* No visible body piercing (nose rings, eyebrow rings, etc.)

Men
* Necktie should be silk with a conservative pattern
* Dark shoes (black lace-ups are best)
* Dark socks (black is best)
* Get a haircut; short hair always fares best in interviews
* No beards (unless you are interviewing for a job as a lumberjack!)
* Mustaches are a possible negative, but if you must, make sure it is neat and trimmed
* No rings other than wedding ring or college ring
* No earrings (if you normally wear one, take it out)

Women

* Always wear a suit with a jacket; no dresses
* Shoes with conservative heels
* Conservative hosiery at or near skin color (and no runs!)
* No purses, small or large; carry a briefcase instead
* If you wear nail polish (not required), use clear or a conservative color
* Minimal use of makeup (it should not be too noticeable)
* No more than one ring on each hand
* One set of earrings only

One final note on interview dress: while it goes without saying that your interview clothes should be neat and clean, very few interviewees give the same time and attention to their shoes. Shoes? Yes, shoes. I am aware of at least one Corporate Recruiter who forms first impressions based solely (pardon the pun) on shoes. This person does not have a shoe fetish--he subjectively judges that those who pay attention to details like their shoes are also likely to be diligent in their work life. And it is not just that person's opinion. Many have said that you can judge a person by their shoes. You will find that many ex-military officers (many of whom have found their way into management positions in corporate America) are especially aware of a person's shoes. It is not enough to be clean, pressed, and ironed. Make sure your shoes are conservative, clean, and polished.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Tuxedo : Renting And Buying Basics

2006-10-08T22:05:00.000-07:00

Unless you're exchanging vows on a beach in Kauai, your best Bermuda shorts won't make the cut -- you'll need formalwear in which to greet your bride. If you have season tickets to the opera, you may already be a tuxedo owner, all set to look snazzy on your big day. But otherwise, the question is whether to rent or buy.

TO RENT OR TO BUY?
Money is the main factor in your decision. Renting will cost about 10% to 30% of the price of a new tuxedo; the average price for a decent tux is between $300 and $500. If you attend three or four formal events per year, buying a tux may be worthwhile. Plus, a good tux is an investment -- you can wear it for years. But if you'd rather slather your body in hot tar than wear a coat and tie a couple of times a year, go for the rental. It's not a big hassle, and you won't be stuck with thin lapels when extra-wide ones come back in style.

Also, if you look toward Howard Hughes as your anti-germ model, you may want to go for your very own, sanitized tux. Rentals are used by who knows how many men, not all of whom share your high hygiene standards. Of course, rental tuxes are cleaned between each use (another cost to factor into your decision), but if you really can't stand the thought of another sweating-buckets nervous groom donning your tuxedo, buying may be for you.

RENTAL TIPS
Rental-minded types should keep the following tidbits in mind when choosing a wedding ensemble:

Choose a formalwear store that has updated their inventory regularly since 1976. (If you see powder blue and ruffles, run.)

A good formalwear dealer will know how to measure you properly (inseam, waist, jacket size) and give you a fitting in advance of the wedding.

The dealer should also listen to you. If you're of the fashionable persuasion and want a dark blue, 5-button mandarin collar tux, but the dealer's praising a silver tux with tails, you'll know you've come to the wrong shop. Politely say thanks but no thanks and vamoose on out of there.

The store should be able to supply you with all the accessories you'll need: bow tie, cummerbund, cufflinks, suspenders, even shoes.

Finally, have all your groomsmen get their monkey suits at the same shop, so you'll be wearing matching duds. Even though they may live in various parts of the country, reserve their tuxedos at least three months in advance and you'll be set.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Flight Suits - Your Wardobe When You Travel

2006-09-03T21:13:00.000-07:00

IT'S the beginning of another summer travel season, and passengers at some of the busiest airports look little different than if they were shopping at a mall, their increasingly casual wardrobe of T-shirts and shorts having eclipsed any remnants of the golden era of travel, that time before airline deregulation led to cheap tickets, when dressing for the airport meant dressing up.

But take a closer look, and it's apparent that many travelers are even less well dressed than if they were at the mall. Savvy passengers have discerned the subtleties of passing hassle free through the Transportation Security Administration's checkpoints. Chic at the airport this summer means no lace-up dress shoes, no belts, no heavy-metal jewelry, no jackets required.

Dressing up isn't worth the effort when it is likely to lead to the sort of indignities experienced last week by Donna Repko, a business traveler at O'Hare Airport in Chicago. After passing through security in the late afternoon rush on her way home to Boston, Ms. Repko suddenly turned to a screener and said with a sense of urgency, "I think my jacket got caught in your machine." A moment later, a gray plastic bin poked its way through the X-ray machine. Scrunched beneath it was a ball of white pleated cotton, smudged with black streaks. "This is why I don't dress up for travel," Ms. Repko said.

For decades, the old fashioned have lamented the way young people - and now most people - dress for air travel. The advent of more stringent security measures in the nearly four years since the 9/11 attacks might have been expected to usher in a return to formal dressing, as a way of appearing respectable and drawing less scrutiny. But in fact the opposite seems to have happened.

"If you have on a fine suit, you don't want to fold it up and put it through that machine," said Richard B. Lanman, a medical lecturer from Los Altos, Calif., who travels at least three days a week. "I think there is generally an incentive to be more casual. I'm more inclined to dress down. There has been a continual degradation of any fashion sense in the past decade. You can't believe what you're seeing." Ann Davis, a spokeswoman for the security administration, said there was no style of dress or item of clothing that led screeners to single out passengers for extra scrutiny.

Among the 50 or so passengers interviewed this month at airports in New York, Atlanta and Chicago, there was no consensus about whether any clothes attracted extra attention. But there was wide agreement that the simpler and more dressed-down, the more efficient the experience.

On its Web site, the security administration advises against wearing metallic jewelry, belt buckles and hidden body piercings and says passengers who set off the metal detector will be subject to hand-wanding or a pat-down that includes the torso. "Screeners do have some discretion and can refer a passenger to additional screening if they notice any irregularity to a passenger's contour, or if it appears there is an item protruding underneath their clothing," Ms. Davis said.

At Kennedy Airport in New York last week , passengers who would normally consider themselves fashionable were willing to commit a faux pas to get through security. John Robshaw, a textiles executive, wore a denim shirt tucked into denim jeans, but no belt. Sarah Flood, an oncology nurse, was in white short shorts, a green T-shirt and blue hoodie that matched her carry-on bag. "This is not my fashion day," she said, a newly purchased bohemian cotton skirt, the look of the season, packed in her checked luggage.

As they have become conditioned to the intrusiveness of modern security measures, undressing and redressing in front of revolving casts of strangers, travelers have developed new routines of composure, evolving their wardrobes to speed them along. And clothing makers have come up with innovations to meet their needs. Shoe companies like Florsheim, Clarks and Rockport sell "airport friendly" shoes without steel shanks. Underwear makers promote support bras made without an underwire, as even a small bit of metal can trigger a sensitive alarm.

"Americans have simplified the way they dress for travel," said Valerie Steele, the chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. "It's not a question of dressing better or worse. It's about dressing in a way that is more transparent."

At the USAir terminal at LaGuardia Airport in New York, the sartorial adaptations to modern air travel played out with a sense of theater. After collecting their boarding passes, a handful of businessmen stepped over to a ficus tree and rested their briefcases on a concrete planter as they patted themselves down, checked their pants pockets for keys, coins, pagers and cell phones, which they transferred to bags or jackets, then removed the jackets and merged into the line waiting to pass through security.

Without being told, they took off their shoes and placed them into gray plastic bins. They neatly folded their jackets - the pockets now full of the metal objects of everyday necessity - on top of their bags.

"People travel a lot differently today than they did 20 or 30 years ago," said Joanne Smith, the president of Song Airlines, Delta's discount division. For professional women, wearing a jacket now means wearing something underneath that won't cause embarrassment when the jacket is removed. Those who will only wear high heels sometimes have to make other concessions.

"I usually wear dress heels, and I take them off to avoid further screening," Ms. Smith said. "I don't like to be barefoot, so I put a pair of socks in my bag or I always try to wear hose. I know. I'm a glamour don't. But I feel very old fashioned that way."

Bishop Cheen, a financial analyst, said he had to dress up for business, and after a meeting in Manhattan on an unseasonably hot and humid spring day, Mr. Cheen, 56, was wearing a slightly disheveled suit, which he paired with an overstuffed Jansport backpack to keep his hands free while fumbling with his boarding pass and ID for his trip home to Charlotte, N.C.

He had it down to a science: he pulled a plastic identification holder from the backpack and slipped his driver's license inside, displayed on a string of metal beads around his neck.

"If I wasn't traveling for business, I'd be in a T-shirt, and I wouldn't be wearing these shoes," he said, pointing to his lace-ups.

Men like Mr. Lanman, the medical lecturer, have another secret: wearing a dress shirt with a pocket to store their boarding passes and identification, although it didn't appear to be much of a secret on a recent Delta flight to Atlanta, where business class resembled a nerd convention, recalling the days of pocket protectors. "I'm in a constant feud with my wife over this," Mr. Lanman said. "She says it's not cool."

The most obvious difference in the way people dress since security measures were increased is the popularization of easily removable footwear like loafers, flip-flops and sandals. More than a quarter of the people traveling that afternoon at LaGuardia wore flip-flops. Having slipped out of their footwear to be screened, they looked like members of a religious pilgrimage.

On its Web site, the security administration pointedly says passengers are "not required" to remove their shoes before entering a walk-through metal detector. Screeners, the site says, might "encourage" them to do so if they are wearing boots, platform shoes or the many kinds of dress shoes that contain metal. But even the casual traveler seems to suspect duplicity in this policy. The widespread assumption is that refusing to remove one's shoes is a red flag to screeners.

Doug McNamee, who works for a pharmaceuticals company, bought a pair of loafers specifically designed for modern air travel last month. He said he was told the shoes had no metal in them. But the first trip he took, the shoes caused Mr. McNamee to become the subject of additional screening.

"It may have been an overzealous salesman who said these shoes did not have a steel shank," Mr. McNamee said. "Or maybe it was a sensitive scanner, but I would try anything to get through security faster. I get frustrated standing in line watching people in boots that lace halfway up their legs. I am desperate to get a high-speed lane for business travelers. I'll give my fingerprints, hair samples, saliva, anything."

As most passengers have gotten used to the new security administration procedures, security delays have decreased significantly across the nation in the past year, the agency says. At many airports the majority of wait times recorded by the security administration now approximate its targeted goal of under 10 minutes, meaning all that travelers like Mr. McNamee have to do is wait.

from the NYT - by ERIC WILSON

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Wool Specialty Fibers - For Mens Suits

2006-08-06T20:10:00.000-07:00

WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool's are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration's which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration's will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.

Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool's require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.

WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.

Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.

Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair's luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.

Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.

Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel's hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel's hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.

Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.

Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard. One of the best, most luxurious wool for suits is the vicuna wool taken from the vicuna of the Andes mountains in South America.

The vicuña is a member of the camel family. It is the smallest of the six species of camel, and is thought to be the wild ancestor of the alpaca. It lives on the high, grassland plateaus of the Andes mountains which range from southern Peru to northern Chile and into parts of Bolivia and Argentina. Only tough bunch grasses and festuca grows here. The sun's ultraviolet rays burn through the thin atmosphere during the day. At night the heat of the day escapes into the atmosphere and the temperatures go down to freezing.

Although they look fragile, the vicuña is specially adapted to its high-altitude habitat. It has an incredibly thick, soft coat that traps layers of warm air close to its body and protects it from freezing temperatures. The lower teeth of the vicuña grow constantly, like a rodent's, so they can eat the tough grasses. The vicuña also walks on the soles of its feet so it can flex its toes and grab on to the rocks and gravel-covered slopes. Vicuña milk is very rich so the babies grow quickly.

Vicuñas weigh between 75-140 pounds. They are about 4-6 feet long and stand 2-3 1/2 feet at the shoulders. They have very long necks, round heads, and large, forward facing eyes. Their ears are long and pointed and stand up on their heads. Their fur is a rust color, with white around the muzzle,the chest, belly, and the insides of the legs. The white hair on their chests is longer than their other hair.
Vicuñas graze mostly on grasses. Their teeth are large and grow constantly like those of a rodent. They chew their cud when resting getting more nutrients out of the nutrient poor grass.

Vicuñas are very shy animals and run away very quickly. They have two territories that they defend from other herds; a feeding territory or about 45 acres, and a smaller sleeping area on higher ground where they are more protected. The vicuña live in herds of 5-10 members, which includes one dominant male and several females and their young. They mate in March and April and their young are born 11 months later. The young stay with their mother and the herd for another 10 months, when they are driven off by the herd. Young males will form bachelor groups and the young females try to find another group to join. This ensures that the herd stays the same size, which is important with their limited food supply.

The vicuña was almost hunted to extinction for its beautiful soft wool. The Incas used to round up the wild vicuñas and pen them in stone corrals, where they were sheared for their wool. In modern times they were almost wiped out for their meat and wool. By 1960 there were only 6,000 vicuñas left in the wild. Chile and Peru established protected national parks and put a halt to trade in vicuña wool. Now there are about 125,000 vicuñas, but they are still listed as threatened. The vicuña is classified as vulnerable by the IUCN, and as endangered by the USDI

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Alan Flusser : Back To Basics

2006-05-28T20:53:00.000-07:00

Alan Flusser? He is the man who dressed Michael Douglas’ Gordon Gekko character in the film Wall Street. He is an author of four informative books on men’s clothing and style. He is a dandy in the original sense of the term, a man who loves both clothes and to dress stylishly. I have always, admittedly, been a fan of his tastes. Recently, I had a special chance to meet up with Alan Flusser at his custom shop and play a different role than I had hitherto. It was special for several reasons. Not only is the man an award winning, industry driving force of style but he was also a heavy influence on my sartorial development.

It was also a different role for several reasons. In the past when speaking with Mr. Flusser I was ordinarily in the role of acolyte, fedora in hand, using it to catch as much of the cascade of stylish suggestions as I could manage. But this time, he was impressed enough to observe aloud that he had taught me well and that the sartorial circle was now complete. Many were the hours he would instruct me in the stylish ways of the dark side. Dark side because his style is aggressive, it has attitude; it is not for the meek. His tastes are the proverbial iron fist in the custom made, velvet glove. When you wear clothes designed or chosen for you by Alan Flusser, you are as a dandy wolf amongst sheep.

So here I was, in the Style Wolf’s lair, and eager to write an incredible article about my mentor, to put some back in the kitty, as they say. I had an entire list of advanced dandy-esque items and stances I wanted to discuss with him. Everything from the types and shapes of shirt collars suitable for pinning to the most beautiful type of cuff one could place on a suit jacket’s sleeve. Mr. Flusser, however, though always willing to discuss such stylistic minutiae with a fellow dandy was a bit vexed. He enlightened me to the fact that my questions were set in a selfish font, fit only for the interpretations of the already degreed dresser.

Advanced secrets about how to stay in front of the style curve may be fascinating for a select few, but what of everyone else? What possible use would the average but aspiring to “smart” dresser derive from my interview – from his words? We decided on reciting the mantra on the basics of dressing well that, once mastered, will enable anyone to get in touch with their sartorial chi and from there develop their own unique style.

People learn to dress well by observing other people who already dress well. It sounds so easy, and it is. However, in our modern era, the number of the walking well dressed dwindles constantly. It has reached the point that several large fashion houses have a very hard time teaching their employees to dress well because of a dearth of suitable examples for them to learn from. As a matter of fact, there remain only a handful of department stores in the USA where you can rely on the taste of both the establishment and their staff to guide you properly in an approach to classic dressing.

The only other resources available are magazines, many of which have no committed interest (or ability) these days to teach men to dress both stylishly and timelessly. Perhaps that is why this age of the designer lasts so long. Similar to fantasy writing, there need be no research or analysis (or even taste) for designers to come up with “original” fashions; simple fancies of the imagination suffice to justify new, and often pricey, looks. Therefore, for the moment, unless a man is fanatical about clothes and style, it is rather hard to learn the basics.

And the basics, says Mr. Flusser, is really what it is all about. Although the basics should, theoretically, be extraordinarily easy for any man to learn, the information is not readily available. Thus that which should be easy to obtain has become painfully hard to uncover. Indeed, one has to be a veritable style Egyptologist excavating (in your single breasted three button vanilla wafer shaded suit, of course) long abandoned sartorial tombs and temples.

We now live in a world where there are so many different visions about what constitutes proper dress that it boggles the mind which tries to determine in what direction to go in or how to assert a sense of consistency. However, all current men’s tailored styles emanate from the common stem of having to wear a shirt and tie, even if the style ultimately arrived at by a man is tie-less. It seems thus plausible that a starting point revolves around the basics of getting everyone to do this well for themselves. The assumption is that the great bulk of serious men want to dress in a way that makes them look smart and not foolish. That is why it is best to have one common look for men, which they can use as a palette to mix their own stylish tints from.

According to Flusser, the business casual revolution is apparently over. Even the fashion industry itself is glad to rid itself of that garment guillotine if only because of the difficulties the industry already faced trying to teach men how to properly wear a basic shirt and tie. To make matters worse, the industry discovered that it was incrementally more difficult to teach men (and in fact define in their own professional minds) the basics of business casual. Business casual hasn’t a strong lineage and items had to appear both casual and business-like at once, and where were the experts for that coming from?

Now we understand that to be stylish does not just entail the buying of clothes, it is also about learning to select clothes properly and dress well. Mr. Flusser maintains that historical knowledge of the origins (or development of clothes) is both useless and of little interest to the modern man aspiring to dress both well and effectively for his purposes. There are rather certain things “of the moment” that need to be addressed, what suit silhouette (the pattern and scale of the suit’s cut) will look good on the wearer and remain useful over time.

Additionally, the color of a man’s hair and pigmentation play a part in what colors and combinations will look good on him. And seeing that he looks good in certain items, this will serve to excite him further about continuing on a journey to develop sensibilities about dressing well. Usually this type of advice on style goes to only those spending large amounts of money for custom clothes. However, Alan thinks this is a shame and that this information should be readily available to everyone. That is why he is offering a more affordable made to measure clothing service which includes advice on accoutrements that compliment both the outfit and the wearer. It is hoped by Monsieur Flusser that younger men will learn to thus command their own destinies when it comes to choosing articles of clothes in the proper patterns, fabrics and colors.

Does Alan think that having a large variety of outfits, or being able to or willing to wear a large variety of outfits makes one a good dresser? Yes, once a person has gotten the mantra of the basics down cold. However, we are talking Dantean 9th circle of hell cold. Additionally, the most important ingredient of clothes and dressing well is comfort, followed by fit and style for one’s build and occupation, then quality, design of the garment itself and, finally, color choice (depending on the specific coloration of the individual being clothed).

Although it is true that Alan dresses in the most modern way imaginable during his leisure hours, it must be pointed out that he was raised in an affluent East coast suburb, and attended an Ivy League school and thus was exposed to the natural shouldered/Paul Stuart look rather early. He has transcended this look but the ability to understand its basics and importance for the professional man remains paramount in his mind.

And he is of the mind that for the ordinary person who wants to learn to dress in a sophisticated way, the jumping off point will always be a navy (or dark) solid suit, white shirt, navy tie, navy socks, black shoes and white pocket square. This look must be mastered before branching out. It must be worn well, which means you must be firing on all style cylinders. These include: cleanliness, upkeep/condition, quality, design, fit, proportion, construction, weight and the texture of all items/elements must mesh with each other and be appropriate for the season or weather.

It simply cannot be stressed enough how important it is to achieve this classic and yet often elusive basic step. Alan maintains that if you do master this look, and it really isn’t hard if you receive the right information, you will be better dressed than ninety five percent of men walking around in midtown Manhattan. One would not think that Navy suit, white shirt, navy socks, navy tie and black shoes would be a stumbling block to style but there are a number of men interested in clothes who seem to gloss over this stylistic foundation and head right to the suede shoes, windowpane suit and boldly colored shirt counter. The result is that they fail to learn the importance of fit, comfort and design that flatter them eternally rather than give them that fleeting fashion fix.

The word is out now in the form of the first dandy mantra, that if you want to become a stylish dresser, then you must master the basics of navy and white. As pedestrian as it may seem when there are an abundance of patterns and colors in every clothing store, one’s first step is restraint and rejection of the sensational in favor of the handsome, dignified and important. Simplicity is seldom far from elegance. Perhaps to the western mind, it helps to approach this like an empirical scientific theorem, needing constant proof. Apply this proof throughout your sartorial pursuits and you will eventually find yourself well dressed. All you need really do to become a Lord of the Sartorial Sith is read the first four chapters of his recent book Dressing the Man to invoke the elementals of dressing properly and, in this age of plebian dishabille, well.

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Secrets Of Buying A Mens Business Suit

2006-04-03T01:11:00.000-07:00

Just stick to basics, and you'll look great

When new customers enter Guffey's haberdashery in Buckhead in search of a new suit, sales associate Dan Mullis recites three key factors, almost by rote.

"First there's the choice of fabric," he says. "Next comes the detailing."

Then comes the most vital element: "Measuring the garment so that it fits exactly."

Notice that "what's trendy" does not make the cut.

A recent study by NPD Group —a market research firm — indicates that more young men are purchasing tailored clothing. Compared with the previous year, guys between the ages of 18 and 24 accounted for a 53 percent increase in suit, slack and sport-coat sales in 2005. And there's a strong likelihood that these guys are woefully inexperienced at buying suits.

Finding the right suit isn't exactly a science. But it helps to focus more on balance and proportion than all the bells and whistles that designers come up with each season.

"Your body dictates almost everything you need to know about choosing a suit," said Alan Flusser, the New York-based tailor, designer and author of three books on menswear.

Menswear experts offered a few tips to help guide the uninitiated through the process of purchasing a new suit. Their suggestions should serve notice that, while suit styles may change over time, the rules for dressing well remain constant.

A Few TIPS:

1. The fit factor
Generally, suits should fit snug — but not tight — around the torso. To test: Make sure there's just enough room to slip a hand inside the breast flap. Jacket sleeves should drop to just above the palm of the hand.

2. Proportion takes precedence
Wide lapels, shirt collars and neckties can overwhelm a slender physique. Conversely, narrow shoulders, neckwear and collars magnify the proportions of fuller-figured men. And the width of a necktie also should be in proportion to coat lapels.

3. Details make a difference
Standard or surgeon's cuffs, with functioning buttons, ticket pockets and side vents are small touches that can add a lot to a suit.

4. Opt for flat-front pants
Pleated pants tend to make legs and hips appear wider, while flat-front pants create the opposite effect.

5. Don't fixate on the price
Consider a suit an investment. A $1,500 designer suit does not guarantee greater quality than a $200 suit purchased at a department store or men's warehouse chain. For a custom-made suit — which allows the customer to select the fabric and tailoring details —prices can hover around $2,500.

6. Why navy blue's a classic
For long-term value, invest in one suit that can easily transition from business to formal occasions. "Navy looks great in the office, and it works at night as well," says Nick Sullivan, fashion director for Esquire magazine. "The best color for a tuxedo isn't black. It's actually midnight blue. And with navy, you have a choice of wearing black or brown shoes and accessories."

7. Select a fabric that matches your lifestyle
How much do you travel? How often will you wear the suit? Dan Mullis of Guffey's haberdashery says these questions will narrow the list of fabric choices.

8. Don't look like a sailboat
Double vents in the rear can billow unflatteringly on men with prodigious backsides.

9. Big guys don't wear plaid
Patterns such as plaids and stripes tend to exaggerate the proportions of large men, while making the contours of a slender man more prominent.

10. Cuffs vs. no cuffs
Cuff-free slacks tend to elongate the look of the leg. Cuffed pants have a truncating effect because the vertical line is disrupted.

11. Button up in style
Suits with two-button jackets tend to flatter any physique. Three-button suits can make short men appear even more squat, while the elongated lapels on a one-button suit can make them appear taller.

12. Looking like LettermanDouble-breasted suits have a slenderizing effect on portly men, while that extra panel of fabric can appear to swallow the physique of slender men.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

History of The Black Suit

2006-03-23T00:12:00.000-08:00

General History and Evolution of the Black Suit for Daywear
The solid black suit you ask? How did it ever become the subject of controversy? Exactly how does such a neutral choice become imbued with enough emotionally charged angst to make it the DMZ of men’s style? After all, wasn’t there a time when all of serious and polite society was dressed in black from head to toe? How then did it creep out of use and then back in for men’s day wear? What were the elements that made this choice of color naff for one generation and the perfectly acceptable choice for a new one?

Part of the answer might actually reside in the collisions of generational high and low fronts which separate “Old Boy” from “Home Boy”. Recently, I had occasion to exchange correspondences with someone who is rather more of a clothing historian and obsessive about fashion minutiae. Apparently, if his thesis is to be believed, and it is a fascinating one, it was the very fact that late Victorian and Edwardian society wore so much black for day wear that the “new” lounge suit wearers purposefully avoided black. It seems, they wanted to distinguish themselves from their stuffy forbears. After a while, black became the more cloistered choice with additional and various reasons invented by retailers to demonize it as a selection and steer buyers to the more readily available charcoals and navies. During this period (Roughly 1920-1980), black became an increasingly odd choice for daywear. When the solid black suit was seen, it was usually seen on people whose occupations demanded it for purposes of mourning, formality or purposeful social color differentiation from the clientele. Further, the black suits were often not of the best quality, reinforcing the idea that a solid black suit was an inappropriate choice for a man of taste. Throughout the mid twenties to the late 70s a black suit was an odd choice for a lounge suit indeed.

Certainly, the black solid suit must have fallen squarely off the ivy league bandwagon for fashion designers (and eventually, the entire fashion industry) to choose it as the suit color to distinguish themselves from those tedious corporate or ivy league types. Armani, Versace and subsequently Donna Karan and others began to use black as the newer, Hip-per color for younger men, for evenings out. As a result, It was adopted as a staple by all the very fringe groups who ironically contribute so much to the mélange that is American male (versus English male) style. Thus it came to pass that the professional athlete or singer, the alternative lifestyle community, African Americans (ever an invaluably stylish American resource), the dot-comers, and artists all donned le style noir. For many reasons, it was a sound choice in these circles, whether it was the Hollywood set, or merely talented persons who wanted to escape any class or educational associations from their past. Black has power, mystery, sex appeal, it slims, it is counter culture and it is undeniably formal and appropriate also. It is the color of the night, of the city, of things modern, the new age. Also, at some point, there was a concurrence amongst the egalitarian (but talented) smart set, rather than try to compete (at a disadvantage) with those to the manner born, they would create their own “Oxford and Yale”. It amounted to nothing less than a new clothing dialect that announced their membership to their own clubs and universities. A new lingua Franca, for a new aristocracy of the asphalt night. Even if you were from a Paul Stuart background, one gladly donned this protective camouflage in order to socialize with the interesting people without letting your background or day job exclude you from the fun or intimidate anyone at the party. In short, it became a polite way to mingle on an even playing field. Further, it was a way to vett out those boring, stuffy guys in brass buttoned blazers and khakis. What label appropriately describes this new dialect, this new language for a brave new style? We could call it talented, we could call it modern.

I prefer to use the term Hip. Hip suggests a a respect for tradition but a strong predilection for the current as well. It covers every social set including the one it is trying to stand apart from (the mainstream, old line one who’s members can don it to fit in, if they possess the requisite reflexes for adaptation), its updated and modern without rending the basic social dictates of taste.

What began as an adaptation by designers and a host of fringe groups and subcultures was eventually adopted by young people (after all they are now heavily influenced by sub or counter cultures; and their fathers had rejected black and so it has become the same symbol that shunning black once represented) and those of all classes in the largest cities who want to congregate in the requisite noir moderne which is as much a part of city night life as wearing top hat, and white tie was during the end of the 19th century. The old and seemingly solid rule to avoid black was being turned on its head, and black was suddenly as in as one could expect. Add to this a desire for older men to want to seem younger and hipper (whether to mingle with the ladies or appeal to those Dotcom guys from, seemingly, a quarter century ago). Also, black is an instant power look. It was always a good choice for men in businesses where there was a need to command respect and attention. Black fills that order.

If black was against a rule at some point for daywear, that rule is now dead. Although, according to one quite knowledgeable fashion historian, even in the past, you would occasionally see a very proper Englishman in a flawlessly cut black flannel suit for town. Rare perhaps, but certainly bringing into question whether there was ever a “rule” against the black solid suit. Solid black suits are now commonly seen in almost every profession and the only ones who think it wrong are equivalent to the same pince-nez and spat wearing fellows whom Fred Astaire tapped around in many of his movies.

However, even if the rule against the black solid suit is dead, if it ever existed, does not mean that the black solid suit is sans controversy. Au contraire, the black solid suit is at the absolute epicenter of conjecture. The controversy does seem to cut across generational lines to an extent. It seems that many, older, well dressed men consider the solid black suit to be both _outré _and the realm of the parvenu. To wear a solid black suit, even for the evening, is to their eyes, wrong. Rather than a black solid suit, they consider a darkest charcoal suit the richer choice. The reason? The black suit only looks good on a certain physical type with certain coloration, the high contrast person. Generally, people with dark brown or black hair and medium to light skin complexions (not pale it is important to note) are the ones who look best in black suits, every other physical coloration either gets drained or disappears in too unrelieved a manner with the black solid wool’s ensemble which represents a lack of depth, warmth and humor. Sometimes, this camp admits, a pair of black pants or a black jacket is acceptable for a more modern look at a club, bar or a hip new restaurant, but generally, the black suit is to be avoided. At the other end of the dressing spectrum, the younger minded dressers are promoting black as something their fathers do not like. To the up and coming generation, a black suit stands for counterculture and night life… for youth. We are a generation of trying to live an eternal life of exterior city partying and black is slimming, mysterious, sexy, modern and defensive; all the characteristics that generation X’ers and Ys have decided define them. Thus, we’ve learned to learned to don noir as a protective mantle. But how, you may ask, does this all translate into the black solid suit appearing more and more at the office? Social lifestyle contaminates work lifestyle more than it ever has before. You are what you play. Young men wear black at night, all their idols wear black suits, those older dudes don’t wear them. That’s all the recipe one needs to see the black suit is a way to look professional and still not submit to the Man.

Now let me make one thing absolutely clear. I do not own a single solid black suit for day wear. To be honest, I think there are so many more interesting choices that it has never occurred to me. I have black suits with patterns on them (window panes, bird’s eyes and chalk stripes) in white or in “hot” colors like alternating white and orange pinstripes. For after hours stepping out downtown style, I have two black suits and an assortment of black jackets. However I need to confess that I do have a predilection for midnight blue solid suits. I feel midnight blue with something black underneath covering my torso makes a tres sophistique contrast. Why? It is a faux pas for women to mix navy (or midnight blue) and black in their dressing. However, in spite of this female rule, it is such an interesting and rich combination that it creates something a little different and, at the same time, something 100% male. Female influences have made themselves so felt in American and Italian male style as of late that I thought it as well for us to reclaim a toehold for ourselves. I come clean about not wearing black suits for daywear because I admit that the solid black suit is making inroads for daywear in spite of how I might feel about it as a choice (that is, not a negative but rather an uninteresting neutral) and that it is a symbol of my generation for going out in the evening to that hot new club, or bar or to wear while entertaining that girl you finally asked out to that trendy restaurant with the candlelit tables on those balmy spring evenings in the city. Sometimes trends and acceptability are not about what we like but about what is. For now, the black suit is us, old but new, what our great grandfathers wore and our fathers eschewed. Old but new, just as the term “hipster” has reappeared in the lingo, the solid black suit separates us from our fathers, and may yet from our sons.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Flight Suits And Dress When Travelling

2006-02-26T21:55:00.000-08:00

By ERIC WILSON for NY times

IT'S the beginning of another summer travel season, and passengers at some of the busiest airports look little different than if they were shopping at a mall, their increasingly casual wardrobe of T-shirts and shorts having eclipsed any remnants of the golden era of travel, that time before airline deregulation led to cheap tickets, when dressing for the airport meant dressing up.

But take a closer look, and it's apparent that many travelers are even less well dressed than if they were at the mall. Savvy passengers have discerned the subtleties of passing hassle free through the Transportation Security Administration's checkpoints. Chic at the airport this summer means no lace-up dress shoes, no belts, no heavy-metal jewelry, no jackets required.

Dressing up isn't worth the effort when it is likely to lead to the sort of indignities experienced last week by Donna Repko, a business traveler at O'Hare Airport in Chicago. After passing through security in the late afternoon rush on her way home to Boston, Ms. Repko suddenly turned to a screener and said with a sense of urgency, "I think my jacket got caught in your machine." A moment later, a gray plastic bin poked its way through the X-ray machine. Scrunched beneath it was a ball of white pleated cotton, smudged with black streaks. "This is why I don't dress up for travel," Ms. Repko said.

For decades, the old fashioned have lamented the way young people - and now most people - dress for air travel. The advent of more stringent security measures in the nearly four years since the 9/11 attacks might have been expected to usher in a return to formal dressing, as a way of appearing respectable and drawing less scrutiny. But in fact the opposite seems to have happened.

"If you have on a fine suit, you don't want to fold it up and put it through that machine," said Richard B. Lanman, a medical lecturer from Los Altos, Calif., who travels at least three days a week. "I think there is generally an incentive to be more casual. I'm more inclined to dress down. There has been a continual degradation of any fashion sense in the past decade. You can't believe what you're seeing." Ann Davis, a spokeswoman for the security administration, said there was no style of dress or item of clothing that led screeners to single out passengers for extra scrutiny.

Among the 50 or so passengers interviewed this month at airports in New York, Atlanta and Chicago, there was no consensus about whether any clothes attracted extra attention. But there was wide agreement that the simpler and more dressed-down, the more efficient the experience.

On its Web site, the security administration advises against wearing metallic jewelry, belt buckles and hidden body piercings and says passengers who set off the metal detector will be subject to hand-wanding or a pat-down that includes the torso. "Screeners do have some discretion and can refer a passenger to additional screening if they notice any irregularity to a passenger's contour, or if it appears there is an item protruding underneath their clothing," Ms. Davis said.

At Kennedy Airport in New York last week , passengers who would normally consider themselves fashionable were willing to commit a faux pas to get through security. John Robshaw, a textiles executive, wore a denim shirt tucked into denim jeans, but no belt. Sarah Flood, an oncology nurse, was in white short shorts, a green T-shirt and blue hoodie that matched her carry-on bag. "This is not my fashion day," she said, a newly purchased bohemian cotton skirt, the look of the season, packed in her checked luggage.

As they have become conditioned to the intrusiveness of modern security measures, undressing and redressing in front of revolving casts of strangers, travelers have developed new routines of composure, evolving their wardrobes to speed them along. And clothing makers have come up with innovations to meet their needs. Shoe companies like Florsheim, Clarks and Rockport sell "airport friendly" shoes without steel shanks. Underwear makers promote support bras made without an underwire, as even a small bit of metal can trigger a sensitive alarm.

"Americans have simplified the way they dress for travel," said Valerie Steele, the chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. "It's not a question of dressing better or worse. It's about dressing in a way that is more transparent."

At the USAir terminal at LaGuardia Airport in New York, the sartorial adaptations to modern air travel played out with a sense of theater. After collecting their boarding passes, a handful of businessmen stepped over to a ficus tree and rested their briefcases on a concrete planter as they patted themselves down, checked their pants pockets for keys, coins, pagers and cell phones, which they transferred to bags or jackets, then removed the jackets and merged into the line waiting to pass through security.

Without being told, they took off their shoes and placed them into gray plastic bins. They neatly folded their jackets - the pockets now full of the metal objects of everyday necessity - on top of their bags.

"People travel a lot differently today than they did 20 or 30 years ago," said Joanne Smith, the president of Song Airlines, Delta's discount division. For professional women, wearing a jacket now means wearing something underneath that won't cause embarrassment when the jacket is removed. Those who will only wear high heels sometimes have to make other concessions.

"I usually wear dress heels, and I take them off to avoid further screening," Ms. Smith said. "I don't like to be barefoot, so I put a pair of socks in my bag or I always try to wear hose. I know. I'm a glamour don't. But I feel very old fashioned that way."

Bishop Cheen, a financial analyst, said he had to dress up for business, and after a meeting in Manhattan on an unseasonably hot and humid spring day, Mr. Cheen, 56, was wearing a slightly disheveled suit, which he paired with an overstuffed Jansport backpack to keep his hands free while fumbling with his boarding pass and ID for his trip home to Charlotte, N.C.

He had it down to a science: he pulled a plastic identification holder from the backpack and slipped his driver's license inside, displayed on a string of metal beads around his neck.

"If I wasn't traveling for business, I'd be in a T-shirt, and I wouldn't be wearing these shoes," he said, pointing to his lace-ups.

Men like Mr. Lanman, the medical lecturer, have another secret: wearing a dress shirt with a pocket to store their boarding passes and identification, although it didn't appear to be much of a secret on a recent Delta flight to Atlanta, where business class resembled a nerd convention, recalling the days of pocket protectors. "I'm in a constant feud with my wife over this," Mr. Lanman said. "She says it's not cool."

The most obvious difference in the way people dress since security measures were increased is the popularization of easily removable footwear like loafers, flip-flops and sandals. More than a quarter of the people traveling that afternoon at LaGuardia wore flip-flops. Having slipped out of their footwear to be screened, they looked like members of a religious pilgrimage.

On its Web site, the security administration pointedly says passengers are "not required" to remove their shoes before entering a walk-through metal detector. Screeners, the site says, might "encourage" them to do so if they are wearing boots, platform shoes or the many kinds of dress shoes that contain metal. But even the casual traveler seems to suspect duplicity in this policy. The widespread assumption is that refusing to remove one's shoes is a red flag to screeners.

Doug McNamee, who works for a pharmaceuticals company, bought a pair of loafers specifically designed for modern air travel last month. He said he was told the shoes had no metal in them. But the first trip he took, the shoes caused Mr. McNamee to become the subject of additional screening.

"It may have been an overzealous salesman who said these shoes did not have a steel shank," Mr. McNamee said. "Or maybe it was a sensitive scanner, but I would try anything to get through security faster. I get frustrated standing in line watching people in boots that lace halfway up their legs. I am desperate to get a high-speed lane for business travelers. I'll give my fingerprints, hair samples, saliva, anything."

As most passengers have gotten used to the new security administration procedures, security delays have decreased significantly across the nation in the past year, the agency says. At many airports the majority of wait times recorded by the security administration now approximate its targeted goal of under 10 minutes, meaning all that travelers like Mr. McNamee have to do is wait.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

What Is British Cut And What Is American Cut

2006-02-19T21:16:00.000-08:00

To know the difference, we must examine the cut of a mens suit. In the British American tradition, there are only two silhouettes that have historically been cut into suit patterns.

The American cut is a 3 button, natural shoulder jacket, with a notched lapel, and a welt upper pocket and flap pockets below. The jacket is vented in the center back. The top button is not buttoned, but is actually on a part of the lapel which is rolled, so that the jacket fastens at the middle button only, as the bottom button is left open. The top buttonhole is finished on both sides, and is intended to be seen. The shoulders of this silhouette are soft and gently sloping. The stance of the fastened button is higher than the waist, and the jacket itself is not darted inward to the waist, so that the entire look is one of comfort, but rather square in shape. Though this pattern does not follow the body's shape, it is easy fitting, with wider armholes. In its most traditional form, this silhouette has a "sack" shape, almost boxlike. It is usually paired with straight front trousers with cuffs, and the trousers do not break (fall forward with a crease) on the shoe.

The British cut is a 2 button, natural shoulder jacket, with a notched lapel, and a welt upper pocket, with flap pockets below. The top button is buttoned, and the lower button is left unbuttoned. The stance of the fastened button is to the waist, for a longer, more graceful look than the American sack jacket. Several other aspects of the silhouette accentuate this longer look: first, the jacket is slightly tapered at the waist by darting. Secondly, the shoulders, while soft, are a bit more shaped than the American model. The armholes are higher to the arm, and there are two side vents in the back. All of these elements conspire to give the appearance that the jacket conforms to the lines of the body, though not rigidly. In fact, typical of English jackets is the "blade" which is the fold beside the shoulder attachment on the back of the jacket, which provides the extra fabric for ease of movement. The British jacket is typically paired with pleated trousers, slightly tapered, whose cuffs break to cover about 2/3 of the shoe.

There is also another British style widely admired in America - the double-breasted suit, gently tapered, with a firm but natural shoulder, and side rear vents. This style buttons one, second from the bottom button, out of six front buttons. Keep in mind that a double-breasted jacket is always buttoned! Some double-breasted jackets are cut to fasten at the lowest button only. This is a result of a style made popular by the Duke of Kent, the brother of David, the Duke of Windsor. It allows for a longer look, as the lapel appears longer. The lapels are peaked, the upper pocket is welted, and the lower pockets are either flap or inset besom. The trousers are pleated.

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

King of All Tweeds

2005-12-12T01:01:00.000-08:00

A Brief History of Harris Tweed
The story of Harris Tweed is the story of a remote island community that lies between the Highlands of Scotland on the north west tip of Europe and the North Atlantic Ocean.

For centuries the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra have woven the magical cloth the world knows as Harris Tweed, Clo Mhor
in the original Gaelic- 'The big cloth'.

From time immemorial, the inhabitants of the West of Scotland, including the Outer Hebrides had made cloth entirely by hand. As the Industrial Revolution reached Scotland, the mainland turned to mechanisation but the Outer Islands retained their traditional processes. Lewis and Harris had long been known for the excellence of the weaving done there, but up to the middle of the nineteenth century, the cloth was produced mainly for home use or for a purely local market.

In 1846, Lady Dunmore, widow of the late Earl of Dunmore, had the Murray tartan copied by Harris weavers in tweed. This proved so successful that Lady Dunmore devoted much time and thought to marketing the tweed to her friends and then to improving the process of production. This was the beginning of the Harris Tweed industry. At that time the method of making this handmade was as follows:
The raw material, wool, was produced locally and part of it would have been used in its natural uncoloured state, the rest was dyed. In the 19th century vegetable dyes were used. Following dyeing, the wool was mixed, the shade being regulated by the amount of coloured wool added; then it was oiled and teased; the latter process involves pulling the wool apart to open out the fibres. The next part of the preparation, carding, results in the fibres of the wool being drawn out preparatory to spinning. This was a very lengthy process followed by spinning carried out on familiar spinning-wheel by women. Until the turn of the century a very early type of handloom was used for weaving with a manually operated shuttle. The final process is finishing where the tweed is washed and given a raised compact finish. The involved in this process was often accompanied by songs in Gaelic.

As a result of the marketing efforts of Lady Dunmore, increased sales of the tweed were achieved and trade was established with cloth merchants in large towns in the UK.

At about the turn of the century the primitive small loom was replaced by the improved "fly-shuttle" loom. This was made of wood and heavier than the earlier loom tending to make weaving an occupation for men rather than women. Although originally imported from the Galashiels a local joiner started making the new type of loom in 1903.

Between 1903 and 1906 the tweed making industry in Lewis increased rapidly. Mr Aeneas Mackenzie's carding mill in Stornoway added spinning machinery and a second mill was started by Mr Kenneth Mackenzie from whom one of the largest Harris Tweed producing companies in existence takes its name today.

At a meeting in Stornoway in 1906 efforts were considered for placing the industry on a more satisfactory footing. This was a most harmonious meeting and as the Trade Marks Act had been passed in 1905 making provision for a registration of Standardisation Marks, it seemed to be novel opportunity to end the increasing practice of offering mill-spun tweed as genuine Harris Tweed.

This meant the introduction of a system of whereby the tweed was inspected and, if passed, given a certifying stamp which would give confidence to the trade and public. A company limited by guarantee was formed under the title The Harris Tweed Association Limited. This was mainly to ensure the grant of a mark and an application was filed to register the well-known Harris Tweed Trade mark consisting of the orb and the Maltese Cross with the words Harris Tweed underneath. One of the objectives of obtaining a Mark was to protect the industry from the competition of the spinning mills.

The original definition read,"Harris Tweed means a tweed, hand-spun, hand-woven and dyed by the crofters and cottars in the Outer Hebrides".

The Certification Mark was granted in 1909, registered in 1910 and stamping began in 1911. Amended Regulations were confirmed in June 1934 and the following was promulgated, "Harris Tweed means a tweed made from pure virgin wool produced in Scotland, spun, dyed and finished in Outer Hebrides and hand-woven by the islanders at their own homes in the Islands of Lewis , Harris, Uist, Barra and their several purtenances and all known as the Outer Hebrides".

There could be added in legible characters to the Trade Mark, the words "Woven in Lewis", "Woven in Harris", "Woven in Uist" or "Woven in Barra" for the purpose of distinguishing where the tweed was made".

The alteration in the Trademark Definition in 1934, allowing the use of millspun yarn, enabled the industry to make a huge leap in production. The stamped yardage increased tenfold and continued to increase till the peak figure of 7.6 million yards was reached in 1966.

The Hattersley single width loom The introduction of the Hattersley domestic loom in the 1920s enabled the weavers to produce more and to weave complicated patterns that could not be woven on the large wooden looms that were used for the previous 50 years.
This loom was brought to the islands by Lord Leverhulme who owned Lewis and Harris for some years and introduced many changes with mixed results.

The Hattersley loom is still used in the industry but is being replaced by the new Bonas-Griffith double width loom which was introduced in 1996 to satisfy market demands for wider, softer, lighter Harris Tweed. The Harris Tweed Association was the proprietor of the famous "Orb" Trademark. Throughout this century the HTA protected and promoted the Orb all over the world. The success of the industry meant that competitors tried to imitate Harris Tweed or pass off other fabrics as genuine. Much of the competition was from mainland Scotland and this led to a case at the Court of Session in 1964 that was, for a long time, the longest civil case in Scottish legal history. The judgement by Lord Hunter re-inforced the 1934 definition that tied all production processes to the Outer Hebrides and removed the threat of mainland competition. The years following the 1964 case were the most successful ever for Harris Tweed but, by the late 1980s the industry had begun to contract as fashions changed and the Harris Tweed jacket became less popular. The industry set out to transform itself by producing a new double width loom re-training weavers, introducing new, tougher Standards, marketing the new wider, softer, lighter tweed.
The Harris Tweed Authority took over from the Harris Tweed Association in 1993 by Act of Parliament. Thus the definition of Harris Tweed became statutory and forever tied the cloth to the Islands:

Harris Tweed means a tweed which has been hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.
The recent times have been difficult times for the British textile industry and Harris Tweed is no exception. However there is confidence that the hard decisions taken to reform the industry will eventually bear fruit and secure the future of this unique product.

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Words, Meanings, Technical Jargons

2005-11-28T03:52:00.000-08:00

Here are some Jargons of the Tailoring World

Cork - The Boss.

Doctor - Alteration tailor.

Kill - A spoiled job that has to be thrown away.

Kipper - A tailoress. So called because they sought work in pairs to avoid unwelcome advances.

Pig - An unclaimed garment.

Pigman - Person who buys pigs and pork usually at a minimal cost.

Pork - A misfit rejected by a customer, but which might be sold elsewhere.

Skiffle - A job needed in a hurry.

Tab - Fussy, difficult customer.

Trotter - Fetcher and carrier - messenger.

Tweed Merchant - Tailor who does the easy work- a poor workman.

Who are These Guys?

Finisher : The person (normally female) who sews the button holes, fells the lining and stitches the edges of the garment once it is complete. These are the last processes in finishing a jacket and do not usually take place until the customer and cutter are satisfied with the suit.

Alterations Tailor: Most tailoring firms operate piece-work (q.v.) payment systems with their tailors . Consequently a coatmaker’s work is finished sometime before the garment is actually ready for delivery to the customer. Apart from the finishing stage, it is usually the case that minor adjustments to the fit of the garment will be needed to achieve perfection. For these final touches the cutter will use an alteration tailor. Alteration tailors are highly skilled since they alter the work of other tailors. Because of this they are normally housed separately from their colleagues.

The Cutter : The person (usually male) who measures and fits the customer. The cutter makes a pattern from the measurements he takes and observations of the customers figuration and posture. The cloth is cut using the pattern. The pattern is altered after each fitting dependent on changes made to the garment. Once the suit is delivered the pattern should, in theory, be perfect.

Coatmaker : The tailor responsible for making the jacket. Each garment is made by different craftsmen. Thus trouser makers only tailor trousers. Specialist garments such as smoking jackets, overcoats and morning suits are also made by specialist craftsmen.

What do you mean???

Balance : Adjustment of back and front lengths of a jacket to harmonise with the posture of a particular figure. Balance is very difficult to achieve in ready to wear clothing. Poor balance is often reflected in the jacket collar standing off the customers neck.
Baste : Garment loosely assembled for first fitting.
Bespoke : Made to a customers specific requirements. Nowadays also taken to mean made by hand.

Canvases : The inner materials used in the garment to give it shape. Much of the coat makers work goes into shaping the canvases so that the coat becomes three dimensional reflecting the customers figure. Canvases include linen, horse hair, hemps, jutes, meltons and many more. The weight of cloth from which the jacket is being made determines the particular canvases to be used.

Floating : A misnomer used by the ready to wear industry to imply a certain Canvas quality of make in their jacket construction. The chest canvas in a Savile Row suit is an integral part of the coats construction attached at certain strategic points to ensure the front of the garment is unmarked. In a ready to wear garment a floating canvas is likely to be affixed firmly to the collar and glued in other places (see "fusing").

Fusing : Use of chemicals and heat to weld the interlinings (including canvas) to the outer fabric, as distinct from stitching. Fusing cloth helps the appearance of the garment to look clean (i.e. flat) and is particularly popular with light weight fabrics which are difficult to sew. It is however difficult to impart shape using fusing and many fusible materials tend to perish during cleaning and with constant usage. Fusing is regarded as something of a cheats charter by traditional tailors since superficially a garment can be made to appear well made with little actual craft used in its manufacture. A useful analogy would be a building without foundation. Nevertheless, these days fusing material quality has improved exponentially such that even top ready to wear garment manufacturers use this method in the coats and suits.

Gorge : The point where the collar is attached to the lapel forming the Notch (either Double Breasted or single Breasted). Savile Row suits tend to have a high gorge, Italian designer suits low.
Made To Measure : Garment adjusted to a customers measurement from a standard Measure block, usually by machine. A very limited number of adjustments can be incorporated into made to measure suits. (i.e. to sleeve length, chest, and trouser length). Savile Row suits are not made to measure. A Savile Row tailor will take up to 30 different measurement, plus notes of figuration and posture, and starts from a blank sheet of paper.

Piece Work : Most of the tailors in Savile Row are self employed and are paid a fixed rate per garment according to their skill, the quality of the work, and the difficulty and time involved in making the garment. The monetary rate for a particular tailor is known as the Piece-rate.
Puckering : The tendency of cloth to gather in runs, often apparent on the lapel or trouser seams. In hand made garments this can result from too much tension applied in the thread when sewing. It is more common in fused apparel and results from different levels of shrinking in the fused material and the cloth or distress in the fused material.

Scye : The armhole: from arm’s eye. A tailor will take several measurements to divine the scye. A correct fit of the scye will hold the collar and shoulder of a jacket in place when a customer is seated ensuring that the back of the jacket does not rise. Many people trying a Bespoke suit for the first time feel the jacket is tight around he arm hole for this reason.
Sleeve Pitch : The angle at which the sleeve is pitched to the sleeve head. In a Bespoke suit the sleeve should be pitched to match the angle at which the arm hangs naturally from the shoulder.
Trimmings : Canvases, interlinings, silk threads, linings, buttons, hooks, felts and meltons. The raw materials that in addition to cloth make up the suit.

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Mens Clothing Continues To Evolve

2005-11-17T20:09:00.000-08:00

Once upon a time, men adhered to strict fashion rules, never daring to buck the sartorial system. But today´s top designers say the modern man is now willing to take risks to create a more personal look.
So what are the new ground rules for masculine elegance in 2006?

Ahead of Paris men´s fashion week, which begins Friday, AFP asked a diverse cross-section of
Designers, form Japan´s Naoki Takizawa at Issey Miyake to Veronique Nichanian at Hermes, to describe the recent men swear revolution.
“Today´s man is more comfortable with himself and lets his real personality shine through,” said Nichanian. “Before, he followed trends, but basically never deviated from a set dress code. Today, he mixes it up a bit.
Takizawa, who will present his spring-summer 2006 collection for Issey Miyake on Friday, added: “There is no longer one standard definition of elegance with a few variations, but a multitude of dress codes and attitudes”.
At the fashion house of reclusive Belgian Martin Margie, who never makes public appearances or comments, a company spokesperson said: “Many designers finally got what they had been asking for, after such a long time!”

“There are on more universal fashion diktats, but rather personal fashion diktats, but rather personal tastes, creative expressions and in dividual styles. Men can wear what they want, without thinking about fashion per se.”
For Franck Boclet, the designer at Francesco Smalto, actors Nicolas Cage and Vincent Cassel are typical of the new modern male “who takes care of himself and likes to dress up.”
“Men are more and more chameleon – they can dress in a different way every day, according to their moods,” Boclet noted.
Jose Levy, designer for Emanuel Unger, hailed English football star David Beckham – famous for his moves on both the soccer filed and the red carpet – for “reassuring men who would have never otherwise dared” to strike a pose.
The Frenchman calls it the “new pleasure in dressing,” explaining: “Before, at 20, men went to work at a bank in something that looked like Dad´s suit. Today, there are actually suits for young people!”
Levy´s countryman Pierre Henri Matt out, who will unveil both his personal line and a collection for Dormeuil in Paris, said: “Men´s behavior has changed a lot in the last decade. They care a lot more about their appearance.”
Matt out predicted that men would follow a course taken by women 20 years ago, embracing “beauty products, fashion, shopping and the fact that they belong to a world of labels.”
Nichanian said the evolution of societal morns, family, and the workplace made the men swear revolution possible

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Art and Technology of Packing

2005-05-24T22:48:00.000-07:00

This article is about technology but it’s also about innovation: How do we do things and can we do them better? This technology is simple enough-a bag-but it’s more about new ways of using the bag. It’s called packing. Or more specifically, modular packing. I don’t travel as much as I used to but I do travel. I’ve learned a few tricks Over the years. And what has struck me is how, on the surface, not much has changed in thousands of years. Early business travelers would grab their stuff-a spare bearskin, a backup club, a few flints and throw it into some sort of primeval pouch, hitch it over their shoulder and hurry after migrating mammoth prey, who were already pulling out of the terminal gate.(OK, I didn’t do much research for this bit.) Nowadays, things aren’t much different. We leave everything to the last minute, throw it into a bag, sit on it while getting the spouse to call a cub. Sure, our wheeled carry-on may look more sophisticated, but the technology is basically the same as that used by our hirsute forebears: A container, all our stuff, a mad rush and a mess. So how can we do it differently? To me the big innovation in packing is the module. The thinking is simple: Why collect all the individual things we are going to take with us on our trip and then lump it together? Most of us, if the flight is not actually about to depart, make little piles of our underpants, socks, shirts, etc on our bed before cramming them into the suitcase, hoping they fit, squeezing a sock-ball here, a handkerchief there. At the other end, we throw the case on the bed, rummage around inside, with shirts, vests, scarves and boots flying everywhere in a around inside, action replay. It’s horrible, and if we then have to move room, hotel, or continent again on the trip chances are not a single item of clothing looks anything like when we bought it.

Packing Awareness
So technology’s answer to this problem is: Stay at home. Let someone else do the trip. No actually, its modular packing, sometimes called packing cubes. It’s simple enough: Instead of throwing everything into one bag, you put them into smaller sub-bags, which then go into the big bag. So the big bag, instead of being a pile of sundry items in varying degrees of crumplitude, is a neat collection of different size sub-bags, or modules. This may not sound like much of an innovation, and some of you may do this already, but an extensive research revealed a very low level of modular packing awareness. Even many campers don’t seem to do this kind of thing to the extent I imagined, unless I happen to have some really hopeless camping friends. Modules simplify things immensely. But it’s not just about the modules, it’s about how they’re designed and how you use them. The modules have a zip-around top, usually webbed so you can see what’s inside. They come in different sizes and shapes. UK-based Life venture < www.lifeventure.co.uk> offer what they call “pack able mesh cubes” ( I can’t see me calling them that halfway up a mountain either), while California-based Eagle Creek sell the Pack-It Cube (slightly better name) and have recently introduced a new range with padded sides, so they keep their shape better and don’t squash the contents too much. Then it’s up to how you use them. The best way to pack kinds of clothes is to roll them, rather than fold them. Roll up a T-shirt and you’ll find it’s much less creased when you pull it out. Rolling also makes them easier to pack in a cube. Underpants, socks and smaller items can be folded over before being rolled into little balls. Eagle Creek does a series of special shirt and Pants containers, where, if you follow their folding instructions to the letter, you end up with clothing that survives a long trip in surprisingly good condition. For geeks, Eagle Creek does a series of special shirt and pants containers, where, if you follow their folding instructions to the letter, you end up with clothing that survives a long trip in surprisingly good condition. For geeks, Creek makes some nice padded bags that are great for stuffing all the digital detritus you may bring with you but don’t want to put in your laptop bag.

Respectful Security
One of the great things about packing cubes is that you can then unpack without really unpacking. Pull out the cubes from the big case, throw them in a drawer and you’re unpacked. Or, if you’re short of space, leave them in the case. If you need to get something out while you’re on the road, in the hotel lobby or on the airport runway, you won’t have to pull everything out. Also, I’ve noticed that airport security see your baggage and tend to be more respectful, since unmatched panties and bras don’t spring out immediately when the case is opened and land on their head. An innovation I’ve developed myself (I call it the VariCube) is to avoid the logical choice of putting all your undershirts in one cube, your socks in another. That’s fine for a short trip. But if you’re going to be moving from place to place, it makes better sense to divide the trip into segments, clothes-wise. Each sub-bag, then, contains enough clothes for each part of the trip, so you only need to open one cube at a time. Modular packing is a great innovation and I’ve tried to convert everyone I know. Including you, now that you’ve read this. There are side-effects, however. One is appalling smugness. Another is that I’m so mobile I tend to change hotels, or hotel rooms, at the drop of a hat. If I don’t like the view, the carpet or the way they folded the toilet paper, I’m out of there, knowing I can throw my cubes into a case in a second. It’s empowering, but can be somewhat irritating for any anyone traveling with me. Unless they’re fellow packing cuboids themselves, in which case they’re probably already checked out and waiting in the cub, the engine running.

We remain with regard,
E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

Preening Returns To Form -- And Thats Just Dandy

2005-05-09T04:27:00.000-07:00

Its nice to know that American men havent taken recent corporate scandals lying down. No sir. They sucked in their guts, bade farewell to their families and hurried to the mall. The urge to look corporate -- sleek, commanding, prudent, yet with just a touch of hubris on your well-cut sleeve -- is an unexpected development in a time of business disgrace.

But surprising or not, sales of mens tailored clothing increased 23.7 percent last year to $4.3 billion, with suit sales alone jumping 34 percent. That halts an eight-year decline.

Some of the gain came from men replenishing wardrobes gone stale from casual Fridays. They probably also discovered that a suit, with its clean lines, was a more effective means of transmitting rank to a dull colleague than a golf shirt and a pair of khakis, and a much nicer way to spend ones bonus.

And though The Apprentice produced a type that represents to many in business the worst human qualities, there is no denying the impact of youth on suits, which are now more tapered, with narrower sleeves and flat-front trousers. This can transform seersucker or flannel into a sexy, yet still formal, package.

Young men are driving this trend, and its the guy in his 40s and 50s who needs to get moving, says Bill Downes, the mens buyer at Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco. In the business world, you want to project youth and vitality. Dockers and a baseball hat, thats not going to do it.

David Witman, the corporate merchandising manager for menswear at Nordstrom, does not agree that young men alone are behind the strong sales, but as he sees it, they now perceive tailored jackets and such accouterments as French-cuff shirts as cool. Its a completely new market for us, Witman says.

Beyond the dandy

But ultimately the timing of the suits return suggests a social shift, toward a climate of conservatism obviously, but also to a culture of money and business.

Theres a huge fascination with the corporate world, with big salaries and big businesses, says Tom Kalenderian, the general merchandising manager for mens fashion at Barneys New York. And that comes with the acceptance that you have to look the part.

To Kalenderian, the spike in tailored clothing recalls the 1980s, when New York was awash in Wall Street cash. Sales of made-to-measure suits at Barneys, which on average cost $2,200, have increased 59 percent during the past three years. More men are ordering custom shirts, suits with custom-color linings, jackets with real buttonholes on the sleeves and $2,000 custom-made shoes.

Its absolutely a keeping-up sort of thing, says Kalenderian, who describes the customer for all this excellence -- usually an investment banker or a chief executive but in any case rarely a middle manager -- as beyond valley of the dandy.

Many men dress well for the pleasure of it and because they know that clothes can telegraph all kinds of messages, above all belonging. Michael Millon, a venture capitalist in New York, recalls telling a friend in Paris who worked for Pierre Balmain that it seemed a waste of her talent to keep such a job just because she got nice clothes. Besides, he said, who would even notice the difference? To which she replied, Another woman in the same clothes.

That was an awakening for me, says Millon, 65, who wears well-cut, costly suits by Brioni and Kiton and admits to a weakness for shoes, especially in crocodile. At last count, he had 300 pairs.

As fashion commentators such as Anne Hollander, the author of Sex and Suits, and Tom Wolfe have observed, it is men, not women, who are more fashion-evolved, in part because of the 200-year-old tradition of the suit and in part because their clothes have more hidden esoteric details that a man can obsess over.

Peacock displays seem to come in 20-year cycles, reflecting the stock market as well as social changes. In the 60s, when Wolfe wrote The Secret Vice, about the mania for custom suits, Pop artists had come uptown, London was swinging, and it was cool to have your clothes made on Savile Row. Even Lyndon Johnson did, ordering six suits from the firm of Carr, Son & Woor, following the 1960 election, with the instructions, I want to look like a British diplomat.

Any outmoded term used to describe a current fascination invariably overstates the case, however. Just because a man splashes around color and pattern doesnt make him a dandy if the basic canvas -- the suit -- fits poorly. Similarly, a man can put on a $300 suit, and if he has gone to the trouble to have it properly fitted, and the rest of the picture isnt offensive, he will be noticed.

Even for those men who have mastered clothes, who perhaps realize its better to be in the hands of an obscure tailor than a flashy boutique salesman, there are limits to self-expression. Even in New York, the business world is still conservative, and dress is ruled by two areas, finance and corporate law. The most inflexible of rules is this: If youre a middle manager, you dont show up your boss or a client.

Im a banker at a branch, says Robert Magliulo, 35, a vice president at Citibank, who deals with private investors. Can I step out? Yes, but its not the norm. I have a Canelli suit that I bought at a discount. To me, its smoking. But I rarely wear it to the office and never if Im meeting with a client.

Magliulo, who has on a black Hugo Boss suit, a white shirt and a red Ferragamo tie as he speaks, continues: Its all perception. A client sees a guy in a $2,000 suit, and he thinks, He makes too much money; hes going to steal my money. So Magliulo considers the emotional response of a client, who very often may be dressed in a button-down shirt and khakis.

And as the corporate scandals have shown, its the chief executive who sets the tone, in both virtue and vice.

Its all about the CEO, Kalenderian says. If the CEO is a slob, then everybody is a slob. If hes immaculate, everybodys immaculate. A middle manager wouldnt get caught dead dressing against the CEOs sense of style.

Lets hope, though, that he will draw the line at cooking the books.

We remain with regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Some Suggestions For Randomly Selected Faq's

2005-04-05T21:19:00.000-07:00

Q: How do I get the creases out of my tie?A: Put the two ends of the tie together and roll the tie around your finger like a belt. Slip it off your finger and leave it rolled up over night. The following morning, hang it up and the creases should be gone.

Q: What traditional top coats style are to be worn over a suit? A: The most popular are the 3 button full length top coat or the 6 button double-breasted top coat. (See top coat style section at www.clothesforsuccess.com for pictures)

Q: What are the different types of tie knots and how do they look? A: There are three basic tie knots. The Four In Hand, which makes a small knot.
The Half Windsor, which makes a medium knot.
The Full Windsor, which is the fullest knot.

Q: How do you button a single-breasted 4-button suit coat? A: You button the first three buttons and leave the bottom one un-buttoned.

Q: How should a shorter man dress to look taller?
A: A single-breasted suit two-button suit will elongate your torso because the tie stacks up on the buttons thus creating a vertical line. Vertical patterns such as subtle stripes create length as well. Avoid cuffs and wide leg trousers because it will make your leg look shorter. Wear a bright tie, which forces the viewer to look up, giving the illusion of length. Put this all together and optical grow an inch or two.

Q: How wide should the lapel on a sports coat be? Should it differ from that on a suit coat?A: It’s about the same, anywhere form 3 3/4 to 4 1/4 "

Q: Should you wear pattern or solid colored socks with a suite?A: Either is correct. If the sock has a pattern with a color, try to match the accent color in the sock to the tie or the accent color in the suit.

Q: How can I get promoted faster?A: Dress three levels above the position you are seeking and your employer will start seeing you that way.

Q: How do I dress if I am interviewing for an upper management position?A: An upper management position requires sophisticated clothing of high quality.

Q: How do I know what to wear for a job interview?A: Research the dress code of the company you will be interviewing with and dress to the highest level.

Q: What are the best fabrics for a formal top coat?A: Cashmere, Camelhair, Cashmere wool blend or a high quality wool.

Q: What is the proper length for a formal Top coat?A: 5’ 6" height 42", 5’8" height 44", 5’10" height 46" 6’ height 47 1/2" 6’2 height 49"

Q: How long should the sleeves be on a formal top coat?A: They should be about 1/2 past your wrist to cover the shirt and the sleeve

Q: What are my best color choices for a formal top coat?A: To be worn over a formal suit, wear Black, Navy, Charcoal or Camel

Q: Should I wear an undershirt under my dress shirts?A: Always! It’s a better look and also holds the perspiration from soiling the shirt.

Q: What do I do if I find moth holes in my clothes?A: You have to take out all your clothes and have them treated or cleaned to kill the eggs. Then treat the closet with cedar blocks, cedar chips or moth balls

Q: How can I convert a suit into a more casual outfit?A: Try wearing a solid navy, or charcoal suit. Wear it with a medium gray or medium blue shirt, black belt and black shoes. When you shed the suit coat and tie, it will look like a finished business casual outfit.

Q: If I am dressed business casual with a open collar dress shirt. Should I wear a undershirt?A: You will look like your displaying your underwear if you wear your Haines white undershirt. Instead buy different colored solid "T" shirts, and wear a tone on tone combination. Like a navy "T" shirt worn under a blue open collared dress shirt.

Q: If I am in sales and I am seeing a client who dresses very casual, such as jeans, how should I dress?A: Wear a sport coat and slacks. It will be casual but still put you in the advisory position.

Q: How should the sleeves of my suit coat fit?A: The sleeves should taper, gradually ending just over the wrist so the shirt cuff extends about 1/2 inch beyond the jacket sleeve.

Q: How long should the length of my pants be?A: The length of the pants in the front should touch the front of the shoe and angle towards the back of the shoe to fall just above the heel.

Q: Should I wear cuffs or no cuffs?A: Cuff or no cuff is a personal choice, however no cuffs will make you legs look longer.

Q: How often should I wear a suit?A: If you wear a suit everyday, daily rotation is essential. Never wear the same suit two days in a row.

Q: How much money should I spend on a suit?A: Always purchase the best suit your budget can afford

Q: What steps I need to take to look impeccable for my job interview?A: Decide what you will wear in advance and check that it is clean,pressed, no missing buttons etc.

Q: How much of the shirt collar should show out of the back of your suit coat?A: There should be 1/2 shirt collar showing.

Q: At what point of my waist should I wear my trousers?A: You should wear your trousers just slightly about the navel.

Q: What is a pick stitch?A: A pick stitch is a small running hand stitch at the edge of the lapel and collar of a suit, which is a hallmark of a fine, high end custom handmade suit.

Q: How am I judged by my appearance?A: Within the first 30 seconds of meeting someone, there are ten value judgments being made about you including: Your education level, socio economic level, success level, position, organizational skills, trustworthiness, likeability, competence, integrity, and even moral character.

Q: If you are short, which will make you look taller, a double breasted or
single-breasted suit?A: A single-breasted suit will make you look taller because of the vertical lines of the buttons.

Q: What subliminal message does the color brown give?A: Down to earth, friendly and forthcoming.

Q: When two candidates are being interviewed for the same position and everything about them is equal. Which one gets the job?A: It’s been documented when all is equal the candidate that gets the job, is the one with more polish and presence and who looks the part.

Q: In a recent survey, how do most people want to appear in their clothing?A: Most people want to appear, taller, slimmer and younger.

Q: What is the correct measurement for the sleeve length on a suit coat or sport coat?A: The measurement is 4 1/4 from your thumb to the edge of your sleeve.

Q: If I am wearing a standard point collar dress shirt, what tie knot should I tie?A: You should tie a basic four in hand tie knot.

Q: Should I have my shirts starched?A: Generally speaking, the cheaper the shirt, the more starch it needs to look crisp. Expensive ready to wear and custom shirts , if they are truly quality, should have more body.

Q: How can I look slimmer wearing casual clothes?A: Create a clean uninterrupted line, by wearing the same color theme through out.

Q: What’s the most common reason for a person looking a few pounds over weight?A: The most common reason, is because people tend to still try to squeeze into too small clothing.

Q: If I wear a shirt with a spread collar, what tie knot should I tie?A: You should tie a Windsor knot.

Q: What percentage of companies has reversed their dress codes, from casual to formal dress within the past year?A: 1 out of 5 (20%) have returned to business formal and the trend is picking up momentum.

Q: According to a recent article in the New York Times, What is the anticipated rise in productivity associated with the return of business formal dress in the work place? A: An estimated 3.6% rise in productivity. To put that in perspective, productivity rose only 1.8 percent across all sectors of the economy in 2001.

Q: What type of socks do I wear with a tuxedo?A: Very thin solid black in silky fabric

Q: Are side vents in suit coats and sport coats in style?A: Yes, it gives the impression of refinement, good taste and elegance.

Q: What is a gorge line?A: The gorge line is the distance from the shoulder at the neck point to the first button of your suit coat. For instance a new Italian model suit coat, might have a higher or lower gorge line for expression.

Q: How many buttons should there be on the sleeve of a suit or sport jacket?A: 3 or 4 buttons are acceptable. It’s a matter of personal taste

Q: Should I button all three buttons on a three button suit?A: No, You should only button the top two

Q: Regarding suits, what is meant by a "drop"?A: A "drop " is the difference between your chest and waist. For instance, typically a size 42 suit coat comes with a 36 waist trouser, so it would fit a gentleman with a 6 " drop.

Q: Are suits coming back?A: Yes in a big way! In 2002 1 out of 5 companies have reversed their dressing policies back to business formal and the trend is picking up momentum.

Q: What collar length is in style?A: The most current collar length is between 2 3/4 and 3 inches

Q: What width tie is in fashion?A: 4 to 4 1/4 inches at the widest point

Q: If I have a very serious business meeting what should I wear?A: A dark navy or charcoal suit, either solid or pinstripe.

Q: What is the current trend, pleated or non pleated pants?A: The "fashion" look today is non pleated pants. However most men prefer pleated

Q: How do I get wrinkles out of my suits, sport coats and dress slacks?A: Try steaming the bathroom and let your clothes hang for about an hour. You will be amazed how the wrinkles will disappear.

Q: How do I keep my clothes from wrinkling when I travel?A: Try putting a piece of plastic from the dry cleaner over each one. It will form air pockets between your clothing and prevent them from wrinkling.

Q: How can I make sure my suits and sport coats keep their shape?A: Do not use wire hangers. Hang them on thick wood hangers designed for suits and sport coats

Q: What are braces?A: Braces are another word for suspenders

Q: What is meant by "illusionary dressing techniques"?A: Illusionary dressing techniques are ways of dressing that make you appear taller, thinner, and more proportionate than you actually are.

Q: Should I keep my clothes in garment bags?A: No! Clothes need to breath. If you keep them in a garment bag, they will oxidize and become discolored

Q: How do I protect my cloths from moths? A: Buy cedar blocks for your closet.

Q: What should I wear with a tuxedo, a vest or a cummerbund?A: A cummerbund is traditional and conservative and a vest is more contemporary and stylish.

Q: How often should I dry clean my suits?A: Dry clean only when they are very soiled or have an odor from perspiration. Over dry cleaning will make your suits shiny and dry out the fabric. Try spot cleaning and steaming out your suits to get rid of wrinkles.

Q: What is meant by "illusionary dressing techniques"?A: Illusionary dressing techniques are ways of dressing that make you appear taller, thinner, and more proportionate than you actually are.

Q: How do I protect my cloths from moths?A: Buy cedar blocks for your closet.

Q: In a recent survey, how do most people want to appear in their clothing?A: Most people want to appear, taller, slimmer and younger.

Q: If you have a serious interview, which color suit would be your safest choice?A: A solid navy suit is the safest color to wear for an interview

Q: What is the correct tie length?A: About one half inch past the waist of your trouser

Q: Can I wear suspenders on a trouser which has belt loops?A: If you always wear suspenders, it is a cleaner look with out the belt loops. If you wear suspenders occasionally, then you can get away with the trouser having belt loops.

Q: What is the correct sleeve length for the suit coat?A: Your dress shirtsleeve should extend a half-inch beyond the suit sleeve. . Your dress shirtsleeve should extend a half-inch beyond the suit sleeve.

Q: How should a shirt collar fit?A: You should be able to gently insert two fingers through the front neck without creating a crater or gagging yourself, than the collar fits properly.

Q: What color shoes should one wear with a navy suit or navy dress slacks?A: A navy suit or slacks works best when paired with either black or cordovan

Q: Is it advisable to wear a button down shirt with a business suit?A: Actually no! The button down shirt originated with the sport of polo, to keep shirt collars from slapping into players’ faces as they rode. A button down shirt is sporty and should be worn with a sports coat or with dress slacks.

Q: Which "suit of armor " will be perceived as the most powerful for a serious business meeting?A: A dark charcoal pin stripe suit communicates the strongest power message..

Q: Can patterns be worn together for suit, shirt and ties?A: Yes! The rule is, two patterns to one solid. For instance, if the suit is a solid than you can wear a patterned shirt and tie. If the suit has a pattern than wear a pattern shirt and a solid tie or a solid shirt and a pattern tie.

Q: Can I look taller by getting dressed?A: Yes, to look taller wear vertical strips in you suits. You will optically gain one inch.

Q: When I wear a three-button suit do I button all three buttons?A: No, Only button the first two.

We remain with best regards, your E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

Clothes Do Make The Man! - How Important Really Is What We Wear?

2005-03-28T21:49:00.000-08:00

Is there a cause/effect in how we are treated by the world? Does it make a difference in getting someone to help you in a Department store, or being seated at a good table in a restaurant? Can't people look through all the superficial and see the real us? Fortunately, guys, we have some scientific evidence to support what you wear does make a difference in how you influence the world around you. Maybe we didn't want to believe (but suspected) the real reason that guy down the hall who always dressed great, but didn't know poop is now a vice president! When your credibility is crucial, in situations such as job interviews, court testimony, sales presentations and first dates (or even second and third dates) it is important to made a "good" first impression.“You never get a second chance to make a first impression " -- Will Rogers Behavioural scientists tell us that this "first impression" is a strong one. And the process of sizing you up is on a subconscious/emotional level of the brain. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less and can be so strong that it could take as much as five years to erase. Don't you think it's easier to make a great first impression with you appearance and then follow up by showing what a capable, impressive and trustworthy person you are with a winning performance? We've all heard the expression " You can't judge a book by its cover". If you agree, it's a good thing you're not in publishing. Publishing houses have long since proven that a cover may not tell you what's inside a book, but the cover is the reason that we pick up one or the other off the rack. Until a book is picked up, no sale is made!

A good example of "how you look being more important than what you say" is the first Kennedy-Nixon presidential debate. Radio listeners thought that Nixon had won while TV watchers gave Kennedy the win. Kennedy looked great, fresh and vigorous while Nixon appeared tired and rumpled. The TV audience gave more credibility to what they saw than what they heard. When I describe someone as an assistant manger at a fast food restaurant you immediately conjure an image of that person, maybe without much conscious thought. When I mention a high level executive you get another, different image in your mind. There is a definite picture of a person with credibility, authority and power – a professional image. Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and utilize the knowledge to enhance and control how you are accepted? A research reports that people notice the following about another human being and in this order. Remember this is a prehistoric/subliminal evaluation.

Skin color
Sex
Age
We can do nothing about the first three, but we can work on the next four factors.

4. Bearing This includes height (taller people receive higher starting salaries), head movement (nodding is negative with regard to perception of authority) and body language (smiling is perceived as weakness if over done).

5. Appearance Since about 90% of you is covered by apparel, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact. This is such an important area, and on in which you can effect the greatest impression we'll discuss it detail below.

6. Direct Eye Contact Don't stare, but look others in the eye 40 - 60% of the time, otherwise you'll be perceived as having something to hide or that you don't know what you are talking about.

7. Speech 55% of communication is non-verbal. It's not what you say, but how you say it.

"What you do speaks so loud that I cannot hear what you say." -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

What you wear makes a difference in how you influence the world. Why not take advantage of this. Since 90% of us is covered with clothing, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact and one area where we can effect the greatest impression. Dressing badly can be taken as contempt for other people or the situation you are in. Clothing is a way to show others that you have respect and consideration for the situation. If you have respect for the theatre, you don't show up in shorts and a T-shirt to a Broadway play. (The same goes for church, a job interview, etc.).So it's not a question of being judged. We are judged thousands of times everyday. It's a question of whether we want to have an affect on that judging or not. Are we ready to see what we can do to present ourselves in the best package to project a credible, professional image?

Here are some basic tips, and faux pas to avoid in order to look your best:

1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.

2. Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men's wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes. Don't wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you're not wearing them.

3. Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross you legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front. Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4. Wearing both a belt and braces (suspenders) make you look insecure. One or the other please. And if you opt for the braces, please make certain they are the kind that fasten inside your trousers with buttons.

It's very easy to have a tailor or the alterations person at your dry cleaners put brace buttons on your pants if they don't already have them. The metal clip-ons are for the guys who wear short sleeve shirts with ties.

5. Socks should match your trousers.

6. Belts should match your shoes in color and texture.

7. Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.

8. Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.

9. Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men's jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend (see detail below).

Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons! Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it's ok to close or leave it open. Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”). Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn't always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened. Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look. Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater? King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 - 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men's suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button. The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.

10. Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing ½” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

11. No pens or pocket protectors in your shirt pocket. Pens go in your suit coat inside pocket, out of sight.

12. Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases accessibility.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions. "Do the clothes suit you? Do the clothes suit the occasion? Do the clothes suit each other?" -- Richard Plourde

"Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society" -- Mark Twain

Why even be concerned with "fashion"? "Fashion passes, style remains." -- Coco Chanel (1883-1971), founder of Chanel

Men's clothing, unlike women's, is more traditional and less fashion oriented. It takes several seasons for men's designers to change even slightly the width of a necktie. The male business suit is virtually unchanged in 70 years! Part of that is the progression to perfection that has resulted in attire that looks great on most men. The theory is once you reach perfection, don't mess with it! "I'm interested in longevity, timelessness, style - not fashion."-- Ralph Lauren, fashion designer. So why even bother with fashion? Why not choose acceptable classic clothing items and just stick with those? “Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months” -- Oscar Wilde

It's important to know what the trends are, so you can update your wardrobe periodically with the fashion items IF they fit your own style and body type. You don't want to still be wearing a light blue member's only jacket and red polyester Sansabelt pants, do you? "The only moral one can draw from history is that it is much better to invent a new fashion than a new social theory. The fist may improve the appearance of men; the latter will only bring about a revolution" -- Carlo Maria Franzero the biography, Beau Brummell

We remain with best regards, yours E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Tux: A Glossary Of Terms And Styles

2005-03-08T04:02:00.000-08:00

JACKETS

Full dress, a.k.a. tails or tailcoat -
Yep, these tails are talking to you. The eponymous tails actually have tails, with a two- to six-button front. Generally worn at ultra-formal evening weddings.
Tuxedo, a.k.a. tux -
A tuxedo jacket can be single-breasted (with a one- to four-button front) or double-breasted (with a two- to six-button front) and is worn at formal or semiformal evening events. The basic tux comes in a variety of flavors. Pick single- or double-breasted with one of three lapels: peaked, notched, or shawl. Wear it with black, satin-striped trousers.
Mandarin, a.k.a. Nehru jacket, Mao jacket -
This jacket features a stand-up collar with no lapel and is worn with a Mandarin-collared shirt. Hint: This combo provides a sneaky way to avoid wearing a tie.
Cutaway, a.k.a. morning coat -
For formal daytime weddings, the groom wears the cutaway coat -- short in the front, long in the back, and tapering from the front waist button to a wide back tail. Cutaway jackets are either black or gray and are worn with matching striped trousers.
Stroller coat -
This semiformal jacket is a semi-formal suit jacket cut like a tuxedo. Usually charcoal gray or black and typically worn in the daytime.

LAPELS

Notched lapel
This lapel features a triangular indention where the lapel joins the collar. This is the least formal lapel style.
Shawl collar
This is a smooth, rounded lapel with no notch.
Peaked lapel
This broad, V-shaped lapel points up and out just below the collar line.

TROUSERS

If you choose a formal tuxedo, your trousers should match your jacket in style and color. If you’ll be in a formal daytime wedding and will wear a stroller coat or cutaway coat, wear gray or gray pinstriped trousers.

SHIRTS

Crosswyck Collars - This collar style crosses in front and is fastened with a shiny button.
Mandarin collar, a.k.a. band collar -
This collar stands up around the neck, above the tux’s buttons. The most contemporary-style tuxedo shirt. If ties put you in mind of a hangman’s noose, try this shirt: You can wear it without a tie.
Spread collar -
This resembles a standard button-front shirt but folds over and around the neck with a wide division between points in front. The wider collar makes it a good choice with a Euro tie or a standard necktie tied Windsor style.
Wing collar -
The most formal choice and the collar style most often worn with tuxedo jackets, this stand-up collar has downward points.

White pique shirt

This standard style dress shirt is made from white pique fabric, which has some texture. Wear it with a white tie and vest.

Sleeves

As for sleeve cuffs, you have a few options: standard dress-shirt cuffs held together with cuff links; French cuffs, which are folded over and closed with cuff links; and cuffs that close with a button. The choice is yours, but, in general, formal shirts call for cuff links.

NECKWEAR

Ascot tie -
This wide, formal tie is usually patterned, folded over, and fastened with a stickpin or tie tack. Usually reserved for ultra-formal daytime weddings and worn with a cutaway coat and striped gray trousers.
Bolo tie -
You go, cowboy! If you’re having a Western-themed wedding, live in Santa Fe, or are a working broncobuster, this stringy tie is for you. But if your bride has visions of Breakfast at Tiffany’s dancing in her head, think again before breaking out your turquoise-studded bolo tie for the wedding, and go instead for something more classic.
Bow tie -
Probably the thing to wear with a classic tux. Bow ties come in several colors besides basic black --- white is reserved for super-formal events, and colored bow ties are suitable for any occasion. You can match the wedding colors, but basic black is far classier, so think twice before ordering that fuchsia tie. Does tying a bow tie leave you flummoxed? Check out our how-to article. Tip: Avoid clip-ons at all costs. Can you say T-A-C-K-Y?
Euro tie -
This is a hybrid between an ascot tie and a regular, run-of-the-mill necktie. It’s a long, square-bottomed tie knotted at the neck and worn with a wing collar or spread collar shirt. The Euro offers a more formal look that´s not as all-out as an ascot.
Necktie -
If you have an office job, you probably own a slew of these. They’re also called four-in-hands and are perfect for more casual -- yet still elegant -- wedding looks. Important tip: Breaking out your Mickey Mouse necktie to lighten up your wedding tux is definitely not cute. Go for silk in silver or blue. Remember how great John Kennedy Jr. looked on his wedding day? This is the look you want.

ACCESSORIES

Vests, a.k.a. waistcoats -
For an ultra-formal evening wedding, clad yourself in a white tie and waistcoat. Or choose a colored waistcoat instead of a cummerbund for the Four Weddings and a Funeral look, popular in Britain. Vests let men in the wedding party lend a bit of personality to their looks.
Cummerbunds -
These are pleated swatches of fabric worn around the waist. Usually basic black, but you can choose from colored cummerbunds to match the bridesmaid dresses or the wedding colors.
Cuff links -
These little babies can make or break an outfit. If you want outlandish, try a set of magic-eight-ball cuff links. If simple elegance is your style, stick with black cuff links outlined in gold. Who knows? Maybe your bride will give you a set as a groom gift on the big day.

Excerpts from "The Knot"

Created by www.mycustomtailor.com

What Do Men In High Places Do

2005-01-24T23:19:00.000-08:00

Men in high-status positions are expected to execute certain tasks and behaviors in a superior manner. Just like James Bond who readily knows how to do everything and nothing, you need useful skills in order to become a suave "Jack of all trades." Use the following list in order to acquire the skills necessary to embody the essence of a successful man.

1- Dining etiquette

During influential functions and fancy dinners with clients, it´s important to know your way around the table. When eating a meal with many courses and a plethora of forks, knives, little spoons, and napkins, remember this simple rule: You typically use the utensils from the outside in. The set of utensils furthest from your plate is used for the first course and so on.
Put your napkin on your lap before you start your meal, and do not commence eating until all the guests have been seated and their meals have been served. Gentlemanly etiquette separates the composed from the crass.

2- Ordering alcohol

For elaborate meals with five courses or more, it´s wise to know when to order which drinks. Cocktails, like martinis and Scotch on the rocks, are generally served with hors d´oeuvres before the meal and typically away from the table setting. Before the meal, sometimes it is customary to order an "aperitif" like port or a sweet wine.

In terms of what wine to order with dinner, remember that red wine typically goes with cheeses, red meat and creamy dishes, whereas white goes with fish, chicken, and fondue. After the meal, you can also order a "digestif" like cognac or a sweet liqueur like Anisette or Baileys. Likewise, tipping well increases your sophistication.

3- Smoking a cigar

There´s nothing like a sweet Cuban between the lips of a head honcho. Classier and more celebratory than a cigarette, a real cigar -- rather than one of those cheap, crispy imitations from the convenience store -- can be a measure of true class.

First, go to a specialty store to select a decent cigar. Expect to spend at least $10 for a quality cigar. You will likely have to "clip" the end of the cigar (where you will be putting your mouth), so it is wise to obtain a cigar clipper.

To light it, turn the cigar slowly with one hand, so that the entire end is evenly exposed to the heat of the flame. When it glows evenly, consider it lit. Take a long puff of your cigar, and let the smoke gather in your mouth rather than inhaling into your lungs. It´s about the taste, not the tobacco.

Remember not to re-light a cigar after it has been out for more than thirty minutes because the taste will alter unfavorably. Generally, cigars are allowed in special smoking lounges, and it is prudent in restaurants to ask if they have a "no cigar policy." The same goes for dinner parties because some people find the odor offensive.

Speaking with confidence, managing time and shaking up a storm...

4- Speaking well in public

Being able to persuade, influence, flatter, motivate, and inspire is essential in the life of every successful man. In any situation, being a master of social seduction takes one main attribute: Confidence. When you speak in front of a crowd, you must first be relaxed with yourself and your abilities.

Whenever possible, plan your speeches ahead of time, and read up as much as possible about any topic you wish to discuss. You need to be comfortable in order to be confident and compelling, in any situation.

Never read off of cue cards; use them as guides to direct your speech, not direct it verbatim. Be as concise and clear as possible and limit the length of your speech as much as possible. Remember those long lectures you had to suffer through in college?

Likewise, try to involve your audience at least once during your speech so you keep them proactive in their listening, like by asking rhetorical questions, telling a joke you know is funny, or conducting a question and answer period after you speak.

5- Managing your time

What´s more important to you: Planting a tomato garden or playing with your son? Learn to prioritize.

Extraneous activities should always be the lowest on your list of things to do. Also, to manage your time effectively, book time for meetings, project work, but also for play; you don´t want to become a workaholic.

Schedule reasonable lengths of time for activities, and if anything, allow more time than you think you require. Bring your agenda or PDA with you everywhere.

6- Firming your handshake

First, verify that your hand is adequately warm and not sweaty. Going to the bathroom before predicted handshakes and washing your hands in warm water is a good way to keep the shake clean and comfortable.

To properly shake hands, extend your right hand after exchanging verbal greetings. Say, while looking in the other person´s eyes, "Hi, my name is (fill in name), nice to meet you." Firmly grasp their hand, making sure not to not crush or squeeze their digits together or hold the hand limp and noodle-like. Remember to keep a faint and professional smile. Do not overdo or overly curb your enthusiasm.

7- Making a toast

All great men know how to start off a party with a lively toast. To make a positive impression when you toast, you should know what you are going to say about whom and why, and practice ahead of time. For example, plan a few jokes and embarrassing anecdotes to toast to your best bud´s tragic loss of bachelorhood.

Before commencing, check that all parties have a filled glass in front of them. Stand and face the person whom you are toasting or the crowd if you are making a general statement like, "To life, love and the pursuit of infinite fortune." Then, raise your glass up to nose level, with your arm gently extended in front of you. Speak your toast enthusiastically and make eye contact with the crowd or intended recipient. Wave your glass to all, and tip or clink with people who are close enough. Take a hearty sip and sit back down.

Exiting bad situations with class and maintaining that mystique that everyone loves so much...

8- Getting out of difficult situations

Sticky situations rarely get the best of a professional man. An angry employee or a trying ex-wife can put a wrinkle in anyone´s plans. However, having an easy way out of difficult situations is the best way to master them in advance.

Keep your wits under pressure. If someone upsets you, do not resort to verbal abuse, and certainly not physical assault. Calmly state your position and views without succumbing to or employing manipulative pressure tactics.

Likewise, refuse to speak with an irate, belligerent, or out of control person. Simply stop talking, excuse yourself and walk out of the room, or redirect the person´s attention to another issue. For instance, tell a joke to alleviate the tension of the situation and address another less controversial issue.

9- Being mysterious

There is always an allure to a man who maintains a certain je ne sais quoi. When people know just enough about you, but not too much, they want to continually be in your presence to seek out the truth about you. Keep your personal life and intimate details about yourself under wraps.

If you keep your boundaries solid, everyone will always want to know more about you, but always maintain a professional distance. Avoid revealing too much about your personal life at work, do not keep your schedule too open, and try to schedule events, dates and meetings several days in advance. Also, if you employ a secretary, have her screen your calls. An encyclopedia is seldom as well read as a thriller that keeps people guessing.

10- Making good impressions

Valuable connections in love, business, and influential social circles usually begin with a positive introduction. People will remember you and your name if you make an effort to present yourself properly. Stating your first name and making eye contact, as well as politely asking the party´s name and repeating it back to them as often as possible, will put you in the good graces of many individuals.

Listening and mirroring the other person´s movements will subconsciously make them like you more. If they stand to the side, do the same. Don´t make it blatantly obvious, but try to move in synch with the person you need to connect with. Also, speak at the same speed, volume and in a similar vocabulary as they do. Non-verbal communication goes a long way in successfully relating to others.

11- Being stylish

As a poised business professional, you need to develop your own fashion hallmark. You don´t have to be a fashion hound, but try to create your own stellar style. Little personal accessories, like a tie clip or monogrammed cufflinks, go a long way in conveying a classy image. Make an effort to watch the fashion channel and skim through fashion magazines, and pick out what you wish to emulate.

Would Bond be caught fighting international criminals in a jogging suit? A composed man dresses for the occasion and blends in with the situation. For instance, always try to wear a contemporary, tailored suit whenever you are in public during business hours. Also, shop for basic separates at large department stores, making sure they are well-fitted, and buy bold, snappy ties to accent a basic suit.

Created by www.mycustomtailor.com

The History Of Tailoring - An Overview

2005-01-16T21:12:00.000-08:00

The knowledge and art of tailoring, of cutting and sewing cloth -- the two basic aspects of constructing clothes from a pattern -- developed slowly and gradually in Europe between the twelfth and fourteenth centuries. The Oxford English Dictionary´s first reference to the word "tailor" gives the specific date of 1297; and certainty by that date tailoring guilds, as well as those of weavers, and cloth merchants were well established in Europe.

During the Middle Ages clothing had been regarded as a means of concealing the body. But with the Renaissance came the accentuation of the human form. The loose robe, that standard uniform of the medieval period so easily constructed from a single piece or two of cloth, was shortened and tightened, and eventually cut, pieced, and sewn together in attempts to bring into prominence the contours of the human form. This was the birth of tailoring and, in fact, of fashion.

These attempts at re-constructing the human body in fabric called for a growing expert skill and division of labor. Soon the cutter (the one who makes the pattern) and tailor (the one who does the sewing) joined other craftsmen as important members of the community.

Until this time the cloth had been the distinguishing feature of garments, and the wearer took most of the responsibility for the design ~ and, in most cases, the actual production ~ of his own clothes. But little by little, the tailor took on equal importance with the weaver, and gradually came to overshadow him. Master tailors in the growing towns eventually became responsible for the clothing needs of society, and the art and science of tailoring became a highly specialized, complex, and jealously guarded craft.

As towns became cities, then city states, and finally empires of power, fashion followed. First Italy, then Spain and France became the center for fashionable dress in concert with the power, wealth, and influence of those empires. Italy reached its great flowering during the age of Michaelangelo, followed by Spain early in the 17th century. France reached its fashionable peak for tailoring during the long reign of Louis XIV (1643 - 1715), when foppish young men from all over Europe flocked to Paris for their wardrobes. Almost every comic play written in the second half of the 17th century includes the character of a Paris-dressed fop, perfumed and beribboned, with powdered wig and silver-buckled shoe in the latest French mode. But by the time of the French king´s death in 1715, there had already begun a shift in power, and influence -- and fashion.

Even during Louis´ long lifetime a great shift in masculine costume was occurring. In the middle of the 17th century men began to give up the doublet, hose, and cloak that had been the staple items of their wardrobe since the 1500s, and began to wear coat, vest, and breeches, the three components we can begin to identify as modern dress.

Across the Channel, the English had not only turned away from the doublet and hose, but quickly moved through the phase of embroidered ostentation decreed by the French court. They had just survived a bitter but democratizing civil war (l642 - 1649) which, among other things, called into question the brocades and velvets, the silk and pastel satins and powdered wigs and other ostentations of aristocratic French court dress. Over two centuries later, Oscar Wilde would quip that the Puritans and Cavaliers who fought that war were more interesting for their costumes than their moral convictions.

The English moved away from the highly decorative and delicate court style, and took up a more practical form. The costume of both the landed gentry and the newer mercantile class became progressively less gorgeous and exquisite during the 18th century, and far more somber and sober. By the early decades of the 19th century, sobriety (in dress at any rate) had begun to penetrate even the court circle itself, and kings, consorts, and princes were seen to dress in a manner almost identical with their subjects. By mid-century the age of stovepipe hats, umbrellas, and frock coats -- each in glossy black -- was firmly in place.

English tailors, particularly those in London, now came to dominate the fashion scene. First, the English had evolved a style for masculine clothing that was a subtle blending of landed gentry, sporting attire, and bourgeois business wear produced in the tremendous wake of the Industrial Revolution. Secondly, aristocratic court clothing had not been constructed so much with a concern for fit as it had with concerns for decoration, fabric, and color. But when the shift away from ornamentation and ostentation began to occur, fit became the criterion of dress for men. We take it for granted today, but the idea of "fit" as a criterion for men´s clothes is a fairly recent one. It is an idea calling for great skill in execution.

The English tailor was trained to use woolen cloth, and over years of experimentation and practice he developed techniques for "molding" the cloth close to the body without exactly duplicating the true form of the wearer. In short, the tailor could now actually develop a new aesthetic of dress: he could mimic the real body, while at the same time "improving" and idealizing it! It was no longer a question of voluminous yards of flowing silken brocade. Men became "gentlemen" (itself a 19th century term) and frowned upon gaudy display in favor of discretion, simplicity, and the perfection of cut. It was, in terms of fashion, the culmination of that radical turn taken in mid-17th century: the Modern had finally arrived! And the Modern was the tailor´s art.

There have been tremendous innovations in these past hundred years in fashion and the art of tailoring: sewing machines now do the work on straight seams better than could be done by hand; new fabric technology has history produced more comfortable cloths; fashions have adapted to more leisurely, climate-controlled lifestyles. But tailoring is still, and likely to remain so, an art. It has not been brought down to the level of a science. The tailor still believes in making personalized clothing, statements of fashion for the individual, as he always has done.

Even since the invention of ready-made, cheaply-produced clothes in the middle of the last century, the demise of the tailor has been predicted. Like the panda and the whooping crane, it has been said, the march of modern life is against him. Mega-international corporations seem to own everything, calculatedly obsolete gimmickry)· abounds, and Coca-Cola now sells clothing as well as soft drinks by the millions of units. But craftsmen have indeed managed to survive in this age of the mass-produced and quickly thrown away, even to prosper. There is still a clear need for the uniquely personal and individual in our lives. In this age of the shoddy and the quick, the vulgar and the mass-consumed, tailors can still be counted on to champion uniqueness and quality. It is the hallmark of their tradition.

Today, skilled tailors can be found in Rome as well as Richmond, VA, Paris and Pittsburgh, Hong Kong, Kansas City, Rio and Dallas -- as well of course as Milan, London, and New York They are the fitters and pattern drafters, the stitchers of the handmade buttonholes, the cutters of the fine worsted and cashmere and heathery tweed. And they are all standing in the long shadow of tradition and craftsmanship that is the art of tailoring.

from the Culture Cafe
by G. Bruce Boyer

We remain with best regards,
yours E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Business Mans Wardrobe

2004-07-31T03:10:00.000-07:00

No matter what people say, first impressions are mostly based on physical appearance. Thatดs how it works in the dating game and thatดs what often happens in the business world. We are judged on the way we introduce ourselves, on our body language, and most of all, on the way we dress.
Bear in mind, however, that a flawless dressing style is only a complement to substance and a good work ethic, not a substitute. See it as a competitive edge.
Because of their position on the corporate ladder, executives, more than anyone else in the organization, should strive to dress and look their best every day. The first step in dressing for success is determining exactly how many suits, shirts, ties, and accessories you will need to keep your wardrobe diverse.
That being said, here is a quantitative list of basic items an executive should find in his wardrobe. Keep in mind that by mixing and matching the following items, youดll be able to go two weeks without wearing the same outfit twice.

Suits

As an executive, you should own four to six suits; this includes a double-breasted one. Stick to dark, classic colors such as navy, black, charcoal gray, and burgundy.

Shirts
Your wardrobe should also include ten to twelve dress shirts. Mix it up with a couple of white, light blue, and black wide spread collared shirts (straight point collars will also do).

Get the right ties, belts and shoes to climb to the top!

Ties
As an executive, your tie should always exude seriousness and a high level of professionalism. Rotate between eight to ten conservative ties, and donดt be afraid to throw some striped and patterned ones into the mix.

Belts & shoes
To complete your conservative ensemble, youดll need at least two dressy leather belts and two pairs of leather shoes.
A pair of black shoes and a black belt are must-haves in any business wardrobe. Brown and deep burgundy (or oxblood) are also practical colors for dressy shoes and business accessories.

Jackets, sweaters & sporty shirts

For casual Fridays and other less formal occasions, you should own at least two sports jackets, two dressier sweaters, and two casual dress shirts (hereดs where your more fitted shirts come in handy, as well as those with less-traditional patterns).

Trousers
Match any of the aforementioned tops with one of four pairs of dress pants; two pairs of casual trousers (such as khakis or corduroys); and one of two pairs of blue jeans (for very casual days, of course).

Casual shoes and belt
You should own at least one pair of casual shoes and a casual belt to wear with your less-formal pants.
The finishing touches...
Last but not least, every executive should own at least one elegant watch and two sets of cufflinks to round out his business wardrobe.

At this point youดre probably sweating over how much this executive wardrobe is going to cost you. Although the list seems excessive at first glance, keep in mind that most of these items are timeless where style is concerned. You should not think of this future shopping spree as an expense, but as a long-term investment.
Also keep in mind that most of these items are classic, and you probably already own some of them.

Created By www.mycustomtailor.com

Business Clothing And The Custom Tailor Made Mens Wear

2004-07-31T03:08:00.000-07:00

Back to Business Basics in Custom Clothing

No matter what people say, first impressions are mostly based on physical appearance. That's how it works in the dating game and that's what often happens in the business world. We are judged on the way we introduce ourselves, on our body language, and most of all, on the way we dress.

Bear in mind, however, that a flawless dressing style is only a complement to substance and a good work ethic, not a substitute. See it as a competitive edge.

Because of their position on the corporate ladder, executives, more than anyone else in the organization, should strive to dress and look their best every day. The first step in dressing for success is determining exactly how many suits, shirts, ties, and accessories you will need to keep your wardrobe diverse.

That being said, here is a quantitative list of basic items an executive should find in his wardrobe. Keep in mind that by mixing and matching the following items, you'll be able to go two weeks without wearing the same outfit twice.

Suits

As an executive, you should own four to six suits; this includes a double-breasted one. Stick to dark, classic colors such as navy, black, charcoal gray, and burgundy.

Shirts

Your wardrobe should also include ten to twelve dress shirts. Mix it up with a couple of white, light blue, and black wide spread collared shirts (straight point collars will also do).

Ties

As an executive, your tie should always exude seriousness and a high level of professionalism. Rotate between eight to ten conservative ties, and don't be afraid to throw some striped and patterned ones into the mix.

Belts & shoes

To complete your conservative ensemble, you'll need at least two dressy leather belts and two pairs of leather shoes.
A pair of black shoes and a black belt are must-haves in any business wardrobe. Brown and deep burgundy (or oxblood) are also practical colors for dressy shoes and business accessories.

Jackets, sweaters & sporty shirts

For casual Fridays and other less formal occasions, you should own at least two sports jackets, two dressier sweaters, and two casual dress shirts (here's where your more fitted shirts come in handy, as well as those with less-traditional patterns).

Trousers

Match any of the aforementioned tops with one of four pairs of dress pants; two pairs of casual trousers (such as khakis or corduroys); and one of two pairs of blue jeans (for very casual days, of course).

Casual shoes and belt

You should own at least one pair of casual shoes and a casual belt to wear with your less-formal pants.
The finishing touches...

Last but not least, every executive should own at least one elegant watch and two sets of cufflinks to round out his business wardrobe.

At this point you're probably sweating over how much this executive wardrobe is going to cost you. Although the list seems excessive at first glance, keep in mind that most of these items are timeless where style is concerned. You should not think of this future shopping spree as an expense, but as a long-term investment.
Also keep in mind that most of these items are classic, and you probably already own some of them.
The rest can of course be Custom Made by www.ravistailor.com

Article Suggested By: Matt McGuire, Chicago, IL, USA
Created By www.mycustomtailor.com